While baking in last one hr a clicking sound like an electric ignition clicking to ignite a gas stove/thermastat?

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter.
A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you make need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE A WEAK BAKE IGNITIOR REPLACE THE BAKE IGNITIOR IT WILL SOLVE THIS ISSUE

Check to see if the electric ignitors are connected at the ignition module, located under the top surface panel. It is possible that the wire(s) that go to the oven ignitors has burned off or become disconnected from the main spark module,

It is also possible that the electrodes have failed and need to be replaced. These are the two (2) devices that produce the spark (and make the clicking sound) inside the oven compartment.

If those are OK, then check the thermostat, as it could be faulty and preventing the oven from functioning.

If you can smell gas when attempting to turn the oven (bake or broil) then the valves are good, if you don't smell any gas, the gas supply valves (one for each bake and broil tubes) need to be checked.

You might also try lighting the oven manually with a long match or grill lighter to rule out faulty gas supply valves or a faulty thermostat, which if you can manually light the oven, it would prove that the ignitors must have failed.

Here's the exploded line drawings for your stove along with the parts list, just click on each section to see the parts. You can order replacement parts from them as well.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=gw395lepb02&pop=flush

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

hello, i can help you. first of all, if the broiler works then you must have gas coming into the stove. as far as getting to the gas line, it is in the rear of the stove. typically you have to pull out the stove to get to it. that said, here are some things to consider.

Not all gas ranges/ovens require electricity. If yours has a clock, electronic igniters, self-cleaning, or any other electrical features, the unit needs electricity to work properly. Check to see whether there's power getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

It won't bake If your oven won't bake, check these:

Bake igniter
Other causes
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

• The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).
  
  
• The thermostat is defective.
  
  
• The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
  
  
• The selector switch is defective.
  
  

It bakes poorly Here are two instances of when food "bakes poorly:"

• When the item takes far too long to finish, you probably have a weak bake igniter. Often, you need to replace the igniter, but you may want to troubleshoot the oven's electrical system further to more precisely locate the defect.
  
  
• When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, the oven thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. If your oven uses an electronic temperature-regulating device, you may have an electric sensor in the oven instead of a mechanical thermostat. If the oven temperature is off by 30 to 40 degrees in this type of unit, you must replace the sensor.
  
  On many units with a mechanical thermostat, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.
  
  

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

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You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerryrigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls.(Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing thebroiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.)The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get thecovers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removingseveral screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as Idescribed, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it inonly for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting.Hope this helps.

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Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;}I had the same problem, same symptoms...

You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerry rigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls. (Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing the broiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.) The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get the covers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removing several screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as I described, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it in only for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting. Hope this helps.