Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Electrical our door wont open, so i tried opening the top to check all wires plugs ,with the top still open i plugged in power plug 2 times and the breaker switch in our panel box keeps poping, do you know why that all of a sudden did that? chas1450@aol.com

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Dear Chas,
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Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

2005 dodge Durango rear door hatch won't open. how do I fix this?


Most of them I fix, the latch is bad. It's electrical. Some times it the wires. Usually the wires break at the top where the wires go from the door to the body. First climb in the back and see if there is a plug at the bottom/center of the door panel. If there is, remove it and use a screw driver, go left to right and catch the latch arm to release the door. If not, them remove the upper door panel around the window. It pops off. Start at the sides, the the top. Remove the screws on both side of the bottom piece(hidden by the top piece). Then pop the top of the bottom piece off. You wont get it out because there are screws on the bottom. Then you have to reach down and find the release arm and open the door to finish taking the panel off. Remove the bolts for the latch and replace it. Check the wires first. You will need a volt/ohm meter to check for power and ground.

Nov 04, 2014 | 2005 Dodge Durango Limited

1 Answer

Power went out door locked




Instructions

<:section abp="1260">

    • 1 Unplug your Whirlpool Duet washer from the wall receptacle.
    • 2 Remove the three screws along the bottom front of the washer. Pull the bottom panel from the washer, opening the front of the washer.
    • 3 Reach your arm up through the opening to locate the door latch assemble inside the body of the washer. Grasp the tear-shaped tab with your fingers. Gently pull down on the tab until you hear a click. Pull on the Duet door to open it.
    • 4 Look inside the latch opening in the body of the washer for foreign material. Remove it from the switch with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Look for any pieces of broken plastic that could indicate the door lock mechanism is broken and needs replacing.
    • 5 Shut the door on the washer and plug it into the wall receptacle. Confirm that the door remains unlocked. Unplug the washer and release the lock on the washer door as before if it fails to remain unlocked.
    • 6 Unplug the Duet washer from the receptacle. Pull the washer from the wall so you can access the rear of the washer.
    • 7 Remove the three screws from the top back of the Duet washer. Lift the top off the washer. Find the central control unit, or CCU, at the back right of the washing machine.
    • 8 Check that all the wiring harnesses plug securely into the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids is the sixth harness from the left of the CCU. The wiring harness for the door-lock main switches is the only black harness connected to the CCU.
    • 9 Remove the round retainer holding the rubber boot gasket from the Duet washer door opening by inserting a flat-head screwdriver beneath the spring on the retainer. Pull forward on the retainer spring to release it from the boot gasket.
    • 10 Pull the rubber boot gasket away from the opening at the switch location to access the door switch assembly. Check the wiring harness on the switch assembly to make sure it is engaged. Snap the gasket back in place, and replace the retainer on the washer.
    • 11 Plug the Duet washer into the wall receptacle. Select a washing cycle and press start. Listen for the door lock to engage. Turn the washer off and listen for the door lock to disengage, or wait 30 seconds and try to open the washer door.
    • 12 Unplug the washer from the wall receptacle. Pull the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids from the CCU. Number the sets of wires attached to the wiring harness as 3, 2 and 1, from left to right.
    • 13 Set an electrical multimeter to "Ohm X1K." Insert one probe from the multimeter into opening number 3, along with the wire. Insert the remaining probe into opening number 2, along with the wires. The multimeter should read 60 ohms. Leave the probe in opening number 3, and move the remaining probe to opening number 1. The multimeter should read 60 ohms in this position as well. Should you receive any other reading, replace the wiring harness.
    • 14 Reconnect the wiring harness for the door-lock solenoids into the CCU. Plug the Duet washing machine into the wall receptacle. Select a wash cycle on the duet, then press start. Listen for the door lock to engage and immediately unplug the washer from the wall.
    • 15 Leave the wiring harness for the door-lock main switches plugged into the CCU. Number the wires in the harness 5, 4, 2 and 1, from left to right. The middle opening on the wiring harness is empty, so there isn't a third wire.
    • 16 Set the dial on the electrical multimeter to "Ohms X1K." Insert one probe into the opening next to wire 5, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 4. The meter should read zero ohms.
    • 17 Insert one probe into the opening next to wire number 2, and insert the remaining probe into the opening next to wire 1. The meter should read zero ohms. Replace the wiring harness should you receive any other reading.


Found this on the web . Hope this helps

Mar 30, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet WFW9750WW White Front Load...

1 Answer

Dl F code


Code F/DL - Door Will Not Lock
This is a very common problem with Whirlpool duet front-loading washers. The first thing you need to do is to make sure the door is closed all the way. Clear the code by clearing the control. Then restart the washer and shortly after you should hear clicks coming from the washer. This is the washer attempting to lock the door and will do so 6 times before displaying the code. After you hear the clicks, pull on the door to see if the door is locked or not.

If the door isn't locked remove the top off the washer. Once done you should see the main control or CCU as Whirlpool calls it. On that control you should see 10 plugs on the front lip of the control. Counting from left to right the sixth plug is the door solenoid plug. Make sure that plug is connected on the board good. Also make sure that plug 8 is connected well, in fact make sure all of them are connected but these are the ones that will cause this problem. After doing this clear the display and attempt to use the washer again. If the washer works after doing this I recommend using tie straps to hold the plugs in place. I do this by wrapping two tie straps around the entire control the long way so that one strap holds all the bottom plugs in and the other holds the top plugs in. Note that one tie strap typically isn't long enough to wrap around the control so you may have to connect two together. Also look down in the washer and make sure the wires on the door latch are plugged in good.

Once you are done plugging in the wires good try the washer again. If it still doesn't work you need to test ohms across the door lock solenoid coils. To check this, first disconnect power from the washer. Then disconnect the plug that connects to the solenoid coils which is the sixth plug from the left. The plug should have three wires. The wire on the far left is common. This means that both solenoid coils connect to that terminal. Using your ohmmeter, check ohms from the far left wire to each of the other wires. There should be approximately 60 ohms to each wire. If not, replace the door latch. If the coils check ok it is possible the door latch can still be the problem but it is likely the main control (CCU).

If the door is locking but you are still getting the F/DL code you need to check the door switches. To check this, disconnect the power from the washer. Then disconnect the plug that connects to the door switches, which is the eighth plug from the left. That plug has four wires. Check ohms between the two wires on the left and the two wires on the right. With the door locked the ohm reading should be near 0 ohms between each of the wires. Note that if the door isn't locked, clear the code and start the washer and as soon as the door locks unplug the washer. If one or both of the switches are open (electrically) replace the door lock. If the door is locking and both of the switches check good (pass the ohms test) replace the main control (CCU).

If the door wont unlock to get at the latch, take the bottom panel off with the 3 screws along the very bottom of the machine. You can pull on a manual release that is at the bottom of the door latch.

Hope helps.

Jul 21, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Is no workig i needcramic heat control


1. you need a multi tester.
2. check the power supply of your outlet, or check the fuse or circuit breaker.
if has power go to 3.
3.open the back of your electric iron, the end of the cord or plug. then try to check the continuity of two wires if any is open. if its open or no continuity replace the cord or plug, either cut the only open wires and reconnect it again.
4. Or check the heating element of your electric iron if no resistance replace the heating element or you buy a new one.

Feb 16, 2011 | Conair Irons

1 Answer

MY DRYER TIMER WILL COME ON BUT THE DRYER WONT START


Hi,
  • Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

  • If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

  • Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Hope this will fix your problem for sure.

Apr 19, 2010 | Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have an electric Kenmore dryer that wont turn on


Hi,
  • Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

  • If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

  • Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Hope this will fix your problem for sure.

Apr 16, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

When i turn on my 98 jeep cherokee, the rear window goes down. it is doing this only sometimes. it wont go up with the window button. the windows are electric


could be a faulty switch and or a faulty Partially making contact with the wire especially if the doors are used quite often as over time and use they tend to bend and wear causing a break in the wire ...if you own a test light i would recommend testing the switch for power 1st as it merely pops out by hand but sometimes needs a bit of help and pry up on the top end of the switch ...pull the plug and with the key in the on position check for power to the connection if none is present check the wires within the rubber boot locate where power begins and ends within the power wire they are colored to help identify which one it is /.

also try opening the door while working the switch and see if ant change occurs this will better give you an idea to what i am saying

Jan 06, 2010 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Sears Craftsman Gar. door opener won't respond


There isn't a fuse. You are going to need to remove the cover on the opener and find out where you are losing the power. Maybe a neighbor has a volt meter you could use. I would check the power cord and then the logic board. Makes no sense but I would check for burnt or missing traces on the printed circuit board especially around that small transformer.

Aug 11, 2009 | Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain...

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Range Slide in....beeping while not in use


Hard wiring is O.K. and really better because you don't have to fool with the plug and the loss of or poor connection there. You can just turn the power off at the breaker. Without knowing what the F9 error code is, you may have a problem with the board inside the control panel. To get the door open, try to push and hold door closed at the same time. This may loosen the tension on the closer and allow it to open. Pull the lever to open it. If not, try to moderately tap on the door where it latches and it may open then. Next, slide a thin screwdriver into the latch and free it up there. Once the door opens, I believe your oven will work. The oven believes it is in the self clean mode. When you get the door open, turn on the oven with the door open and it should heat. If it does not, check the wiring in the back and you may find that one of the wires has burned off the control switch for the oven. I know this sounds like a lot, but it should save you a tech call and a couple of hundred dollars. Hope this helps.

Jan 28, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

Locate door switch


If you open the operator console, there should be a wiring diagram located inside for technical assistance.  Make sure you unplug the dryer before servicing.

Now...to get to the door switch.  You will need to perform the following steps:

1.  Remove the operator console.  It is either removed by inserting a putty knife under the each front corner of the console and pushing in to release a retaining clip.  Or, there will be a screw on each side holding it down.

2. Once the console is removed. The top panel must be removed.  If there are three 1/4 inch screws under the console holding it in place, you will need to remove them first before the top will come off.  The top panel will then slide towards you and then lift up.  Some top panels will simply slide forward and come off without removing any screws.  Double check to be sure.

3.  Located along the front of the dryer under the top panel will be a series of wires.  One set will go to a lamp socket and the other set of wires goes to the door switch.  NOTE: Some dryers have a lamp socket in the rear of the unit away from the door opening.  The door switch will have a connector plug.  Take a small screwdriver and gently lift up on each side of the plug and it will pull apart.

4.  On the side of the plug still attached to the door, connect a multimeter across the pins of the plug and take resistance readings while opening and closing the door.  You should see a change in resistance from open to short.  If the resistance does not vary, the switch is bad.  Another method you can try is to jumper the wires on the section of plug that is not connected to the door to see if the unit will operate with the switch by-passed.

Make sure you unplug the dryer before servicing and only energize it if you wish to attempt the by-pass method of testing.  I do not recommend bypassing the door switch as a fix, either.  The dryer will not shut off when you open the door, which means you would have to rotate the timer or unplug the dryer to stop it.

Please post any responses back to this thread instead of making separate postings.   It makes it easier to assist you.

Let me know if you need further assistance.

Oct 17, 2007 | Kenmore 62062 Electric Dryer

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