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Whirlpool washer basket does not spin in rinse cycle. Have already jumped lid switch and motor coupler is OK.

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Dear MR TONGUE,
ngfam at you service!
electronic???TRY UNPLUGGING IT AND THEN REBOOT IT .IF THIS WORKS THEN YOU ARE SAFE!

OTHERWISE
This sounds like it will only fixed by service

Yes sounds like you need service!
Call A&E Factory Service /They service nation wide
And are available 24/7 for making appointments!

If the appliance is 10 years old or more,it may make sense not to invest any money to fix it!
Happy to assist you,
Neil

PS.Before you sign off!
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE ON FIXYA.COM

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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Kenmore 20712 top load washer makes a noise for the rinse cycle but the basket will not spin. Lid switch was replaced 3 months ago.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Dec 20, 2010 | Kenmore 20172 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine model no. 23012100 stopped running during the rinse cycle. The motor just humms and does not turn. The motor did not do anything in the other cycles. Is the motor bad?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23012100&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

May 21, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer will not spin


hi
i think the 3 main reasons.................


1.....MAY BE THE PROBLEM OF LID switch . Check the lid switch for continutity. A bad lid switch wil interrup the spin cycle. The the switch is ok test for power athe wigwag (spin) solenoid when in spin cycle. Since it aggitates the soleniod itself could be bad.

2....There is a locking coupler on the Whirlpool washing machines that locks when it kicks into spinning cycle. I am guessing here, but if you try and run it without any clothes in it, it will probably spin. It will be slow starting, but it will probably spin.
The coupler is located down by the motor and is three pieces. They made it out of plastic, and while it typically holds up very well, they do break. I will try to look up the part # you need to fix it. (assuming this is your problem)


3... Could be a problem with the transmission, probably not the coupler because it is connected directly to the motor, if the coupler goes bad the motor would not activate the transmission and the washer would not adgitate or spin.

thank you
please rate me.............

Oct 31, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Why wont a washer spin out when it doesnt have a belt


Hi, The coupler replaces the belt and it could have broke. Other options are, the lid switch is bad or the spin basket drive assembly or the transmission. If the coupler is broke, the washer will not agitate either. If the lid switch is bad, the motor will not run either while in spin cycle. If the spin basket drive or transmission are bad, it might spin a little but not strong enough to get the water out of the clothes.
Does nay of these sound like they are what is going on with your washer?
Please let me know if this has helped you at all or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

Jul 17, 2009 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

The Washer did not spin


MOR PROBELY THE CUPLER WENT OUT IS A 3 PEASE 2 WHITE AND 1 BLACK PART IN BUTTEM OF WASHR BETTEN THE MOTOR AND TRANMISION OR CK LID SWITCH. GOOD LUCK

Jul 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

3 Answers

Whirlpool super capacity Lsq9549lw0 has trouble spinning on its own.


If the washer does fine thru the agitation cycle (the washing), that means the motor is OK and the coupler is OK.  It would not agitate unless both are OK.  (and don't listen if anyone tells you the lid switch is bad -- machine would not fill & go thru wash cyle). The spin is another matter.  There is a separate tube for spinning the basket.  There is a drive  block at top of the tube (that sometimes fails)  and there is a separate cluch mechanism below, under the tub.  Those places is where you should look.

May 14, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

Spin Cycle Problems / Noise


Have notice some spring below or in the floor ? the drum basket need a balancer spring in order the drum will control it movement and soundless .available in any apliances center.

Jan 01, 2008 | Whirlpool LSN1000LW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Kenmore model #110.22802100 drains but no spin


If it is draining, then the motor is ok.
If it is agitating properly, then the motor coupler is ok.
This leaves the gearcase, clutch, basketdrive(brake), basket drive block, or timer.

Raise the lid and hold the lid switch down. Start a rinse cycle and let it go through the cycle. It should drain the water, then stop the motor for a split second then kick the motor back in and start spinning. If it doesn't drop out that split second then the timer is holding it in neutral drain. You can recreate this by letting it start draining, then let off the lid switch, then depressing it again. The basket should start spinning. If not,

Raise the lid and hold the lid switch closed. Start it in spin and see if you can get it started spinning by hand. If so you probably have a slipping clutch.
Post back with any questions.
You can go to sears.com, click on parts, and enter your model number and see parts diagrams of the washer. This can be helpful.

Nov 25, 2007 | Zanussi F1045W Front Load Washer

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