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Retrace on screen - Computer Monitors

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Need more info. CRT I'm guessing. Either you have adjusted the vertical size control way out because the screen kept getting smaller. Adjust the vertical size to eleminate the retrace lines and the start checking the vertical out put circuit. Check your voltages. Most often the porblem is in the power supply or closely related. Screen voltage and contrast circuits may also be involved. You didn't give me much to go on. Good lluck.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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You supply insufficient information. Dell beep codes are in groups of 3 and are encodedby the number in each group. They may be interpreted using the table at
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For example 1-1-4 or 1-2-3 would add up to six


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3 vertical very thin lines on display how can i fix them

This is due to retrace and can due to higher screen voltage or a fault in the VERTICAL section.
Reducing the screen voltage will confirm this and if so there is a failure of a 10-20MFD/250 Volt capacitor.
If not a weak capacitor in the vertical section will show the retrace and replacement of the cacpacitor in this section must solve the issue.

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If you know some electronics. Then open unit and look in the vertical curcuit for bad capacitor near vertical chip. This is happens because the heat break down capacitors. Also something a little easier the vertical height is set to high. Call the manufacturer and see if a company tech can guide through the procedure.

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The screen resolution is a combo of:
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If the lines are slanted, you are seeing 'retrace' of the horizontal sweep. The distortion at the top is probably caused by a failing electrolytic capacitor in the vertical deflection circuit or in the power supply filtering for that circuit.
If you want to try to find this problem on your own, use great caution! There are exposed parts that can carry very nasty if not fatal voltages.
Go to any electronics parts source and buy two cans of 'freeze spray.' Expect to pay $4-5 dollars each for them. Using this on a 'live' monitor makes it still a little more hazardous since the cooled parts will form frost that may be conductive and I recommend keeping one hand behind your back so even if you touch something 'hot' you won't have currents passing through your heart.
With the rear case removed, you might drape a clean towel over the guts to let it warm up as it would if cased. When you notice the distortion going away, remove the towel and start spraying short bursts at the cylindrical parts, mostly those of 'medium' size ranging from ~ 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches in height and 1/2 to 3/4" in diameter. These are the parts with values most likely to be failing.
If you can identify the power transformer, a largish block, mostly black, check those capacitors first. You will need a mirror to watch the screen for the worsening of the distortion again and be patient; the parts you are cooling have some thermal mass so the effect is not immediate.
If you find one that seems to affect the picture, then, if you have one, direct a hair dryer (blower type) at that area to see if you can recreate the problem several times.
If you can isolate one specific part, note the value of it; it will have several printed items: - Capacitance - this will be such as this: '100 uF' - Voltage - '63V' - Polarity - this will be marked with a '+' and maybe a minus on the other leg. This is important! Any new part must be installed with the correct polarity if any is shown and it will be present on this type of part.
These parts are very inexpensive so if you cannot decide which one is at fault, replace all of them in that area; they cost from 20 cents to a buck. If you have no local electronic parts store (Radio Shack doesn't have much any more) you can order them from Mouser Electronics. Mouser has NO minimum charge and adds only real postage/shipping charges. You'll find them at
If you decide to go this route, you will have to acquire and learn to solder with a soldering iron. Or if you have a friend who is an amateur radio operator, they will probably do this for you.
Removing the board from the bottom of the case is pretty easy, just make sure the monitor has been OFF for a while otherwise removing the thick cable from the CRT will be a really memorable experience!
Looking at the bottom of the board, note the look of the other solder joints there and do your best to duplicate them when installing the new part(s), bad solder joints can make your repair futile.
Or, you can stuff the wole thing in an envelope and send it to me ;-)
If you have been happy with this unit, it is worth the repair, since LCD monitors are often dead soon after the warranty has passed on.
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For Windows XP -- within the control panel, click on Display Icon and the following screen will appear. I have 2 monitors (Laptop and HP L1925 monitor). On the display properties screen, near the top of the screen, click on the “Settings” tab. When the “Settings” screen displays, select the “Advanced” button near the bottom of the screen.

The “Plug and Play Monitor …” screen will appear as shown below. From this screen, click on the “INTEL(R) Graphics Media Accelerator Driver for Mobile” tab near the top of the screen. Note: Tab stretches the full width of the screen.

The "Plug and Play Monitor ..." screen will change to show Intel Graphis Media Screen. From this screen click on the “Graphics Properties” button near the center of the screen.

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If still under warranty or if you have no electronic repair experience you should take the set back to the shop or to a repair person. Some of the solutions described below can be dangerous, TV's and CRT monitors are very hazardous to service. Even when plugged out, they can store very high, deadly voltages. How old is the picture tube? If there's lots of phosphor burn on it, chances are the red gun inside the picture tube is out. A sure-fire way requires an oscilloscope. Check the voltages on the three color guns at their corresponding pins on the CRT's neck board. You can see their levels change as you tweak their adjustment pots on the neck board. If the red voltage is present and at the same levels as green and blue, then the gun inside the tube is shot. If the red voltage is NOT there, then you can work backwards and find out where you're losing it. It could be a bad buffer amplifier (transistor or I.C.), bad solder joint, or even a broken wire in the cable harness. check for cracked solder joints where the RGB, Grd Sync connector is. check the pins on the molex power supply connector, could be that the pin for the red is pushed back and is not making contact. Try swapping the red and green inputs if you see red on your monitor and no green, then it is NOT the tube. If you see no red still but still get a green where red should be I would suspect a bad chassis.

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