Replumbed house with pvc, turned on water at main and no pressure to house.

If it's pvc pipe, you'll need to be sure you've used pic pipe glue(blue, consistency of syrup) you'll add a coat of it inside the female end of your pipes, then insert the pvc you're connecting to and it should seal that connection.
If it's that black hose like tubing, you can do the same thing and seal the connection with the glue. Generally the flexible tubing is mainly for drip lines in flower beds, any sprinkler lines going underground should be PVC.
You may want to add a water pressure regulator to control that as well. You can get them at Home Depot. You'll place it just before your sprinkler system valve. In this order: There should be a water line from the street for your house, there you'll add the regulator, which will connect to the valve for your irrigation water and that gets connected to your sprinkler line. Be sure each connection is sealed with the blue glue and excess is wiped clean, and any end caps are sealed. You should now have water hitting the regulator before hitting the valve.

every time the pump motor kicks in there is too much pressure and pvc plumbing will squirt for 2 seconds (leaks) and no leaks until pump kicks in again water in house is ok but i think i need more pressure upstairs

I am a certified HVAC Technician. I have worked in the field since 1996. I have seen this hundreds of times, if not a thousand times, in the past. Every central air conditioning and heat pump system comes with TWO drain pans, The MAIN drain pan is located within the AIR HANDLER (blower) UNIT, while the EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is extremely LARGE and sits under the ENTIRE AIR HANDLER (blower) UNIT. The ONLY time water will be INSIDE an EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN is when the MAIN DRAIN PAN condensate drain line is CLOGGED, causing the MAIN DRAIN PAN to overflow. What causes the drains pans OR the drain lines to become clogged is slime and scale from the condensate water as well as debris from within the attic that may have either been blown by the air or may have simply have fallen into the emergency drain pan; or some insects from the out of doors have traveled up into the PVC Drain line and built a nest on the downward side of the P-trap. The P-trap is designed to prevent critters from entering your home through the PVC drain lines. Most CLOGS occur at the P-TRAP location.

The BEST thing to do is:

1. Locate the WHITE PVC drain pipe outside your house and ensure there is NO water draining from it.

2. Locate the same WHITE PVC drain pipe inside your house. You should notice a "TEE" where two WHITE PVC drain pipes merge into ONE WHITE PVC drain pipe.

Follow the below steps, in the order shown:

A. FIRST, find another person to act as your second set of eyes at the end of the WHITE PVC Drain Line that is located outside of your home. That person will be looking for water or debris to EXIT the end of that WHITE PVC DRAIN LINE.

B. SECONDLY, locate the WHITE PVC "P-TRAP" inside your house. It is normally located within a couple to three feet of your indoor air handing (blower) unit.

C. THIRDLY, very gently lift the entire WHITE PVC drain line up in the air as high as you can without breaking it, and slam it down onto the rafters or attic floor or garage floor. You are attempting to dislodge the CLOG within the drain pipe WITHOUT having to actually CUT the PVC and without damaging or breaking the WHITE PVC. Depending on how old the system is, it may or may not be brittle; and it may not take much to damage or break the PVC, which will cause leaks. So, be very careful at this point.

D. Ask the person outside if anything has started to EXIT. You can ALSO usually hear water start to drain if you put your ear up to the drain line. If the person said "NO"and if you don't see the water level getting LOWER in the EMERGENCY drain pan, then REPEAT step "C" above.

E. If the person informs you that there IS water now starting to exit the WHITE PVC DRAIN PIPE, you should then wait until all water has drained from the EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN; and then pour at least 1 quart of BLEACH down that drain, from the EMERGENCY DRAIN PAN exit. The BLEACH will further clear out any SLIME which may be remaining within the "P-TRAP" and will also CLEAN OUT and DISINFECT that drain line.

If the above steps do NOT work for you, then prepare to go into the next LOGICAL phase of your attack. Please NOTE: I am limited to 10,000 characters in my response, so I'll repost additional STEPS in another RESPONSE. Good Luck!!!

sounds like you still might have a leak. but in the short term bleed off 5 pounds of air from your bladder tank and the pump will turn off quicker. Your pressure switch my has a weaken a bit from age which would effect it turning on and off

Best of luck Tom

Try pouring hot water from a kettle around the body of the valve, not boiling or you will melt the PVC pipe. This may expand some of the parts enough to free it.

I assume it is dripping water when the AC is running. If you look at the attic unit, there should be a PVC pipe running from the unit - probably an insulated PVC pipe. This pipe probably goes across the attic to the edge of the house and drains outside. The drain pan may also have a drain pipe, but the one on the AC unit is the issue, and is probably plugged. Go outside and see if you can locate the AC drain pipe. See if the ground is wet below the pipe and if water is steadily dripping from the pipe (with AC running). If the pipe and ground are dry, the pipe is plugged. If you have a wet/dry vac, try connecting it to the drain pipe outside to see if you can **** the pluggage out. If you can get it clear, water should start dripping out of the pipe. This same thing happened at our house. I decided to cut the pipe in the attic, and add in a PVC isolation valve, tee, and water hose connection with plug, so I can valve out the AC unit from the pipe, remove hose connection plug, and hook up a water hose and flush the line to outside. Lowe's sells all of the PVC pipe fittings. The water pressure from the hose will always flush out the algae and crud to the outside of the house. I can also remove the plug and pour a cup of bleach down the drain pipe every couple of months to keep algae growth in check. I also cut out the trap (u-leg) from pipe in the attic and purchased a ready made trap a Lowes (the contractor who built our house had made a lousy homemade trap). I purchased a few PVC elbows and installed the trap on the drain pipe outside. By the way, our AC drain pipe comes out of our wall outside and drains near our outside unit. Our secondary drain pan drain pipe comes out outside from an eave on the side of the house. I don't know what you drain line looks like (it may have a port to add bleach, or some cleanout provisions, maybe not). If you choose to modify/improve it, then make a sketch of it, go to Lowe's and get the PVC parts you need + PVC pipe primer and cement. PVC cement dries fast. Remember, the pipe must flow downhill from you AC attic unit. You can use a regular wood saw to cut the pipe. I hope this helps you. You need to keep the drain line clear as algae will continue to grow in it. Pouring bleach in the line every month or two helps. You also need to check maybe once a month that the line is draining properly (check to see if dripping outside). You can get some serious water damage to your ceilings if the water backs up and overflows. I discovered that our drain line was plugged just in time as our drain pan drain line was also partially plugged and drain pan was about to overflow.

i have fixed almost every one of pc9 -----we have installed in our company,code three{flashes} at first new presure switches installed, same thing,york knows about this,induction motor bearings,could be bad.our local york dist, has boards,inducer, ***.motor, dual press.switch,free.as is known as the only way to fix.after all else is ruled out.one local competator called us if we wanted to join class action suit . good luck.furnaces work good at first, season or two then bam

Run 1 1/2" to 2" gray pvc conduit.

I too had the same problem as you with my pipes freezing, but my heat was the culprit. Basicly the problem was the same. I turned the water on in the sink and when the water thawed there the pump started and oh my god I had broken water pipes in the house under the counter, so I turned the main water valve off, or the pump from the breaker box for the well. The difference is that if you turn the well pump off then the water runs until the pressure goes down. If you turn the main water off it will stop sooner. I fixed the pipes under the sink and behind the dishwasher started to leak, Fixed that and again turned on the water again at the main valve. Ask where your main water lever is. My water started to run in the sink area, but the drains were frozen, I put a heater under the house and heated up the pvc pipe that was still frozen. Of course the toilet..... When it got alittle warmer and the heat on the pipe, things broke loose. The plumber was no where to be found because they were so busy, this worked for me and people had great ideas for me to try. When the water and the pump were turned back on all leaks were fixed and things are back to normal. I am now wiser...I hope this story helps somewhat.

he there,

sounds like there may be something caught in the drain pump itself.

can you provide me with the complete model # on your dishwasher please?

thanks