My GE refrodgerator model #GSS22SGPCSS evaporator fan is not working well. It freezes then defrost and while doing so all foods as well in freezer becomes soft, liquids. The food area even set at the highest level as well do not keep the foods fresh. This is not a old appliance. I need some techincal support as to how to get my GE Refridge..to work well..also the icemaker is not working as well...my telephone number as well..305-2523443

GE refrigerators use a board to control cooling and defrost functions. The fresh food compartment also utilizes a motorized damper, and some models even have a fresh food fan. Air enters the fresh food compartment at the top left corner, and the return air is also in the left wall down near the crispers. Both paths must be clear.

Scenario:

When the defrost timer on your self defrosting unit closes, it shuts down the operation of the compressor and the evaporator fan in freezer compartment while the defrost heating element under the evaporator gets turned on to defrost the ice buildup in freezer. A defrost thermostat attached to the evaporator coil will turn off the defrost heating element if it gets too warm. Then when the defrost timer opens, the compressor and evaporator fan get turned back on for normal cooling cycles via the thermostat.. The defrost cycle lasts about a half an hour and repeats itself every 8 to 10 hours.

By the very nature of its operation you can see that in a self defrosting refrigerator, freezer temps are subject to a rather large fluctuation every time the self defroster goes on. Ergo, frozen food in such a unit will not keep for as long as in a commercial refrigerator or chest type freezer where such a circuit does not exist, temps are constantly low, and food lasts longer. And of couse, when the freezer temps go up as a result of the heater operation it follows that refrigerator temps will also go up since cold freezer air is no longer being funnel to fridge compartment. But since the refrig temps were never as low as those of the freezer, the temp variation during the defrost cycle will be considerably smaller.

If the self defrost mechanism is not working in accordance with the description above then maybe something is wrong with the control board if you have one on your unit.

Sounds like a defrost problem. Water came from frozen evaporator that thawed after being unplugged. It will operate great until evaporator freezes over again because it's not defrosting. Defrost components are defrost timer or Board, defrost heater, and defrost thermostat. One or more of those components have most likely failed. Also be sure Freezer / evaporator fan is working.

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi.

When the back of the freezer is icing up you need to test the defrost system, which is responsible for the problem . The evaporator coils freeze up because the defrost system is not working. this results in compressor and fan running most of the time and in reduced or no cooling, particularly in the fresh food section. The freezer may still be cooling.

Defrost system problems are quite a common issue with refrigerators. Coils freeze because of a defective defrost system. With coils frozen the condenser will go under stress and will loose efficiency. The result is the system not producing enough cold to refrigerate the fresh food section while the freezer section instead keeps working.

Try disconnecting power overnight. Allow the freezer to defrost with power off. If the fridge works after that you have a defective defrost system. In that case the problem may come back after a couple of days. To fix the problem the parts comprised in defrost system must be tested, so to find and replace the defective part.

The defrost system comprises defrost thermostat, heater, defrost control and fan. The parts that fail more commonly are thermostat and heater. Both parts are located behind freezer firewall and tested reading impedance with a multimeter. Element and thermostat are faulty if they return Ohms infinity (the circuit is open) when reading impedance with a multimeter at the part's contact.

If thermostat and element are OK, the next part to be tested is the fan. Fan can be tested by simply checking that the motor is running when energized.

Here a tip explaining how to deal with a similar problem on a different fridge model: Fridge not cooling. Procedure is similar with your model.

Here all parts and diagrams for your model.

You can also find parts and diagrams for most appliances using the links listed on this page: Where do I find parts and diagrams for my appliance?

Regards.

Ginko

Hi,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

remove the rear cover inside the freezer if it has a lot of frost on it,then the evaporator coil is frozen up and you cant blow cold air over or thru a solid block of ice,defrost it,then check the defrost heating element,defrost thermostat and timer or defrost circuitry for no power or defective components,you can use a hand held hair dryer to defrost it quicker

If you check both of the fan motor wires with a meter at the same time , and you get 120 volts , then the fan motor is bad . Do not check to ground , but both wires at the same time . To check the defrost , you will have to turn the timer into defrost , and see if the heater comes on . With no model number , can't give you anymore info . But yes , as simple as replacing the motor .

the defrost termination thermastat is what is cutting of before
time
it is located on the top of the evaperator in the freezer
part number is wr50x10153

the defrost timer is located in the fresh food section in the frount housing that the controls are mounted in

change the defrost termination thermastat and it will fixya

sorry. ge had several fixes for this problem,unfortunatly none worked
i worked for ge and have tried everything. you have done the right thing, buy the way i have to defrost mine today!
ps make sure it is completely dry before you turn it on. for your info.
this problem started after they moved the evaporator from the rear wall to the floor of the freezer the new evaporator allows too much air flow over the fan thus your problem