I have 2 units that seem to work on the fiber side but not the Cat5 side. Do you know of a repair center or a newer version that can be put in place of this? We have the round fiber connectors.

sounds like the problem is that the head unit does not have the version coding set to show you have a cd changer installed in the vehicle. The second possibility is that the fiber optic ring in down which could give the same result. First you have to restart the fiber optic ring and then you have to check the version coding; You need to hook up a mercedes sds to the vehicle

Actually the range of anything Cat5, 5e, 6 etc is only 300ft. This limitation can be overcome with some form of repeater (hub, switch). cat cables are much easier to install and the twisting of the wire pairs make them fairly resistant to outside noise. (Still don't put next to high voltage anything). Single mode fiber can reach several miles while multimode fiber is more like 1500ft (not 100% on that) fiber can use a wide range of connectors. Fiber is typically more expensive and difficult to terminate plus it is not very flexible and is best used for connection different floors together or different buildings. The best network is a mixture of the two technologies.

Hi, I strongly doubt you would be able to fix it yourself. My suggestion would be to contact Gus Lazzari he seems to have access to a lot of camera and lens parts no matter how old they are.

Make sure that this is NOT a "Sure Connect" version that has a very weak FM transmitter, but the older original model with a bland box. Make sure no earphone is plugged-in, then go to the menu and set the FM frequency and set the FM output level and you should be all set..

Remove the side cover that the is hiding behind. The pessure plate is like a car, held on by bolts on its perimeter. Remove the pressure plate and the disc can be remove. Remember the first dis is fiber, the next is metal and on and on. You should end with a fiber against the flywheel. Note how the notches on the tangs are arranged. facing out or facing in, aligned or staggared. Soake the fiber disd in motor cycle motor oil for an hour before assembly. If there is an alen screw with a lock nut in the center of the pressure plat, that is a pusrod and will need adjusting after assembly and before the side cover is put on. If so, let me know. Good LKuck,Ned

It seems very risky to try this because of the way you would have to hook up the cat5. The plug on the back of your faceplate would have to have the wires soldered to it, and if you happen to get solder across the contacts, it could mess it up for good. I like the way you think though! Maybe you could find a broken version of this radio for little or nothing, and remove the plugs from it, and then wire it into the back side of them making yourself an extension cord? That would be the safest way. Cat5 would work though, and the length of the wire that short of a distance shouldn't matter.

when this happened to me,,,I found out it meant that the video decoding ASIC was out....I could not get any DVD's to play to the TV, and finally, the "settings" menu would not go on the television screen....this means you need to have the mainboard replaced, and after twice doing this,,,,the Tech on the phone told me that the Video Decoding ASIC is very susceptible to power spikes,,,so I put a big APC filter in front of it....

This is a very complicated system.There is a system called a d2b ring-it is a fiber optioc loop consisting of your amp,phone(if installed),c.d. player(if installed) and the voice activation module as well as some tele aide systems in certain models. Your head unit wakes these components up during start up of the audio system with this fiber optic loop. If the head unit is not coded properly( I mean version coded not security coded) It will not wake up these components. If any of these components are damaged they will not return the wake up signal back to the head unit or to the next component-depending on it's postion in the loop. The first thing I would check is if any other components work(if you have them) obviously you will not get sound but you will get visual confirmation from your head unit. Next see if the fuse is blown on your amp.it should be located in the trunk behind the trunk liner(i beleive it is on your driver's side). Next find the fuse for your radio head unit in the fuse box and remove it.(make sure the key is off). Wait approx. 5 min. to drain the capacitor and reinstall fuse and put in your security code. If all these tasks fail to restore your sound take your car to a shop and have your command(audio system) version coded and scanned to make sure you do not have a faulty component. I hope I have been helpful.

I believe that is a check valve. There is a replaceable type that has a female pipe thread on the side that goes to the air injection manifold (pollution tube). So, the ideal repair would be to weld a pipe thread adapter to the manifold in place of the factory check valve, then thread on one of the newer style check valves. That is, of course, if you cannot find a replacement factory style air injection manifold

We're an EPSON repair center and I can tell you that typically the UB-S01 is the culprit. For the low cost of the part it would be much more expensive and time consuming to fix it. We throw them in the trash can. If you want to avoid the damage from power on the card look at buying an APC PNET1. It protects CAT5 cables. Most EPSON UB-S01 adapaters are connected to a 25 pin to RJ45 adapter. The data is then sent through the CAT5 and converted back at the source end to RS232 DB9. If you place a PNET1 inline with the adapaters it should stop any future spikes on the card. Good luck.