Question about Pioneer DEH-P4800MP CD Player

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Output Chip blown, need help!

The output chip on my P4800MP is blown - everything is connected correctly, but there's no sound. I am technologically knowledgeable, but have never worked on a car stereo before, so two questions:

First, what output chip does the P4800MP use?

And second, where might I find out how to install a new output chip? Or, where might I find a hardware layout for the P4800MP?

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I had the same problem with my Ford Van. I was told that I had a pre-amp built into my van and had to hook up the blue (Turn On) wire to power up the pre-amp. And Wa Laaa... I had sound and all was right with the world. Don't know if that's your problem, but it is worth investigating... Good Luck... Ed

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

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Why do you think the output chip is blown? This is NOT a user serviceable part. One must posess several uncommon tools, and must know what the output chip looks like.

There IS a chance that the radio is in SELF PROTECT MODE becausea speaker in the car is causing a direct short, or even possibly VERY HIGH, or VERY LOW resistance.

One at a time Disconnect speakers while the radio has a CD or station tuned in. If you disconnect the "blown speaker" the remaining speakers left connected should start to play.



Posted on Oct 07, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Pioneer DEH-P3500 Output Chip (IC)

PAL007( for sure )

Posted on Mar 28, 2008

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SOURCE: Pioneer car stereo output Ic's

In most cases the problem is the electronic volume IC, ref # IC151 and part number PLM003AM (in the DEH-1600). It is a different part number and ref # in other models.

It is not always this part that causes the failure, sometimes it can be the muting transistor, a voltage regulator or even the micro on more rare occasions. It will require some troubleshooting to figure out exactly what part it needs. You will need to have an O-scope to trace down the audio signal and follow it from one pin to another. You also need a multimeter to check a few voltages in the radio. All of this must be done on a test bench with the radio powered on with a power supply. If you do not have these tools, you will not be able to figure it out for certain, you would only be taking a stab in the dark. That can get rather frustrating and even expensive buying parts that do not fix the problem.

The electronic volume IC is a flat pack surface mounted component and requires the very best soldering skills to be able to replace. It is very easy to do damage to the circuit board that can not be repaired if it is not done perfectly. If you have not replaced these type of components before, you should not even attempt this repair.

If you would like the service manual I can sell you the PDF format of it for $10. I also have the service manuals for most Pioneer products as well as Kenwoods, JVC, Panasonic, Denon, Marantz, Clarion, and more. Let me know if you would like to get it. The service manual is very helpful in repairing electronics. It contains the schematics and parts list which is vital to make sure you get the right parts and to be able to trace down any signals and to know what parts are doing wha, and to figuring out if the voltages are correct.

I hope this helps,


I hope this helps

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

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SOURCE: No sound output - pioneer DEHP6700MP

Sounds like a grounded speaker, disconnect each speaker and see if the sound comes back on through the remaining speakers connected. Its sounds like it is just in protection mode from a chssis ground. I hope this helps!

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

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rate me

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these units use audio power amp IC's. Generally speaking, a failure in audio output stages relates either dry solder joints to the power output stages, or the chip itself has failed. Good indicator is to look at voltages across the chip. If they are all high, or all low, expect it to be blown. If it runs hot, same. if it has a crack, piece missing out of it, a bubble in it, tinning on heatsink tab blistering, it is blown. Sometimes, because so much of the audio stage is inside these chips, needing only millivolts to drive them, replacing the chip after initial inspection for dry solder joints is a normal approach to faultfinding. So you can assume it is blown even. If you really wante to waste some time on it, check the inputs across the bottom of the output stages for signal in. Throw the chip number up here and I will find a source for you. Anything, but please give me a better rating;) Cheers


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When there is no sound from an car audio in-dash receiver, FIRST be sure that all connections are GOOD!!!. Incorrect DC conditions affect many units by muting the audio output., so check ... a mistake (often a short circuit or short to chassis in the speaker wiring in a power up condition) has often been made at the deinstall or install under way stage, in that a in a bad condition may result a “no go” situation, that can blow the units audio output IC(s).
Most high power BTL output stages present in a particular way. This can help us to identify a problem with the operation of the device. Whilst the unit is still in the car, measure the voltage on each of the speaker outputs with a multimeter. If they do not appear to be at approx 6-8 volts range, then the output chip(the chip with a heat sink tab secured by 2 screws about *----------* far apart), may have blown. Open the unit up and you can often see this "blown" chip often as
  1. cracks in the black plastic part of the chip
  2. burning or "melt" stains on the PCB about the pins of the output chip.
  3. pins from the chip completely missing or "fused"
  4. main power supply fuse blowing
  5. burnt copper tracks to the printed circuit board about the audio output chip
  6. SMOKE coming out of unit is often a giveaway.
If the chip "looks" blown... then it will be. Replace it with a new one and see how you go. Always check for shorts and short to earth in the speaker wiring before reinstalling unit as reinstall of a unit that has been fixed can be completely undone by the same short circuit still being there.
NOTE-----NOTE-----NOTE-----This is an expert type repair to remove an output chip form a modern in-dash unit. A lot of energy(power) is focused in this area, and mistakes made.... usually result in more "blown" replacement parts. If you have NOT done this type of repair work before, GET A CAR AUDIO DOOOD to give you a quote for the repair. It is better for him to do the job for you, then you get a warranty also. Just remember that some output chips can be as much as $80 to replace, so experts attention is needed to find and restore a faulty part replacement at this level. Be sure to use the EXACT replacement part from the OEM(original equipment manufacturer) right down to the brand of chip WHERE YOU CAN to avoid any extra complications from the part being incorrectly spec'd for the job and still not working when you install it.

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