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Since it sometimes gices a sound, and i know the problem when it's not put it totally and does it. I want to know what it does with rca cables, trs cables and xlr cables and what it does and what ut doesn't. The connection inside in the trs and on one pcb , connected to your main pcb with three cables and it could be that one is not connected right. First of all. it's in the Netherland minimal twp years quarantee, since you may expect the speakers go allong min 2 years. Check you consumerrights, before start screwing.
And just measure your cables with a simple ohm meter or buy for 25 euro a cable meter....very easy and the costs ain't a thing.
gr. richard.... With all the cheap speakers and cheap connectors it might just as well beinig the connector inside, i hate them and replace them.
It's probably blown tweeters. But if you want to spend the money on a hipshot guess, try to find the the crossovers somewhere first; then find the readily available tweeters if/when that doesn't work out. Google "alesis monitor one MK2 tweeter".
You could test the tweeters by just removing one non-functional tweeter and wiring it directly to the speaker leads and with REALLY LOW volume containing NO BASS see if it makes any sound, which would prove it does/does not work.
Going forward, if the speakers sound stressed at high volume - THEY ARE. Too much power or too much distortion (overdriven amplifier) will kill speakers.
Swap the speaker that makes the noise with one of the others. If it acts up on the new channel you know that it's got a fault on it. However if the noise appears on the new speaker the fault is in the amp (perhaps an overheating transitor).
Looking at the picture on fixya of the speakers, it seems unlikely that the speaker units would cause that fault, but the crossover could in it.
First, swap the speakers to see if it stays with the speaker or the amp channel.
Second, disregard the throretical ability of any speaker to handle any amplifier's maximum output. Amp ratings are at a certain power output with a certain amount of distortion. Turn the volume a click higher and power output might rise just a tad but distortion starts to go ballistic. Continue and you get total high current garbage. Clipping (high DC output) will kill any speaker.
Since it seems to go away, I doubt the speaker is damaged, unless torn speaker cone or burnt voice coil can self-repair in a few minutes every time.
Given the relatively small cost of the repair, I'd have the servicer do it. That way if anything happens, he/she is respionsible for it. When I repair this type of speaker, I usually use an old chisel. It is sharp enough to get under the edge and strong enough to pry up the speaker. Just be careful not to nick the cabinet.
the best solution I've found is this: 1. Remove all the tweeter screws. 2. Take a thing metal rod (a coat hanger should work) and lightly tap the tweeter through the top port in the rear until it is loosened and comes out. The tweeter is totally sealed so you probably won't damage it if you need to do this to a working tweeter.
This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.