Email weatherwall ww21h..2.5hp.. 700-352-0003
ok. I know the unit is a bit old, but it is in perfect order, however when it was uninstalled the wiring from front panel to the unit was disconected
(red/ yellow/blue and earth )and also the mains in, what I need to know which goes where? I am fairly competent with wiring but a wiring diagram would sufficient or a written exolanation of which goes where.
Thankyou for your time and patience in this matter in advance.
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Re: email weatherwall wiring
RED-- power--r)( yellow-- cool--y) (blue--same as yellow or don't use) (green--fan--) (white--heat) these are wires from the thermostat. Now the ..........................HEY, is this a window unit or central air system!
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When you remove the wires from the old t-stat they should go to the same terminals you pulled them from. If R had an orange wire then the orange goes to R on the new t-stat. If that's not a good method, probably due to the style of old t-stat, then you need a tech. In order to wire it properly you will need to know what color wires are connected to what terminals inside the indoor unit. Normally inside the unit there will be R,G,W,Y,C where red-R, w-white, G-green, Y-to yellow or sometimes blue, and c-blue unless blue is used for the y circuit. We can use any color we want when wiring these units so honestly there's no way to give you a good answer. Work safe!!
#1turn high voltage off to the unit service disconnect or at your panel box.there will be two wires comeing out one side of transformer. And could have four out other side .I dont know what t-from. You have .take notes and pic with your phone if you can there should only be two wires for your low voltage wireing and two for your high side.on high voltage side it will show you one wire as common usealy its white than pick other color for what voltage you have going to unit 110 or 240 volt s.the old t-from should have wireing diagram on it .cut wires by old transformer just cut wire at wire nuts leavening color of wire and wire nut so it stays with wireing to old transformer at this point hopefully you should be able to follow what wire goes to wire on transformer. If you have any extra high voltage wires just wire nut them separately only useing two.I hope this helps without seeing t-from its hard to be exact but just be very aware of what wire goes to t-from and you will be ok .note dont go by color sometimes color s will be different on each t-from
Hello, the black wire is your high sped motor tap and it should be on cool as you have it. Blue is med-hi and red is your low speed motor tap. You have it wired correctly. Now the freezing can be caused by 2 things, low airflow or a low refrigerant charge. Low airflow can be caused by a dirty air filter, dirty evaporator coil, dirty blower wheel or the blower itself is running slow due to a weak capacitor. Anytime the motor is changed out the capacitor should aswell. If the airflow appears to be ok then the unit is low on refrigerant.
Good observations-- let's see if we can go a bit deeper now-
Yes-- You have to have the inside air fan working,-- in order to blow the COLD air at the coil-- into the room. So-- Can you trace the wire back from the motor to a terminal block, or remove the terminal block cover, and measure some voltages? Is the wire into the motor, reading line voltage (120Volts-- or 240 volts-- what is the plus that the unit is plugged int, supplying?)
No- Voltage-- No Fan!- If you have voltage-- but no fan turning: Is the shaft frozen?-- can you spin the blade wit your hand?
How old is the unit?-- and has the fan motor worked recently?
Help me help you get to the next trouble shooting point- Mack B
You have a low voltage short in the thermostat wires or the coil of a relay or contactor.
Best thing to do would be to remove all the wires to the outdoor unit (be sure to mark where they go... may only be 2 wires if you don't have a heat pump) and try turning the system on. If it doesn't blow the fuse, you know the short is between the indoor and outdoor units. Start hooking the wires back up one by one, that way, when the fuse blows again while you're putting the wire back on, you'll know which wire is shorted.
If the fuse still blows you will know it's in the wiring between the thermostat and indoor unit. At the indoor unit, disconnect all the wires to the thermostat except for the ones that go to R and C (these are the 24v wires). Now, with the thermostat calling for heat or cool, hook one wire up at a time starting with G, then Y, then W and see which wire causes the fuse to blow.
If it's G, it could be the thermostat wire or the fan relay. If it's Y or W, the short is likely in the thermostat wire between the indoor unit and thermostat. If that's the case, visually inspect the wire for damage and cut and splice if necessary.