Question about Olympus Camedia Stylus 300 Digital Camera

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Macro mode What is the size of the subject area that will fill the frame when using Macro mode?

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It is approximately 2.8"x 2.1".

Posted on Sep 01, 2005

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Cannot figure out how to take good macro shot with new Tamron len


With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.

Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.

The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).

Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.

I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.

Mar 05, 2010 | Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 DI XR for Canon

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Pictures that I take come out very white/bright. you cannot tell details. I have changed batteries and have the setting on auto.


Double-check your flash settings. You mentioned the camera is in Auto mode, but the flash has separate settings from the camera's shooting mode. With the camera in shooting mode AUTO check the Flash settings (Auto, Red-Eye Reduction, Fill-In, Off) It may be set to 'fill' causing your photos to be too bright.

Also, depending on how close you are to your subject the flash may not be needed. Using the flash when too close to your subject (less then 3 ft.) will cause bright/white photos. Turn the flash OFF if you are taking macro or photos closer then 3ft.

If neither of these fix your problem, turn the flash mode OFF, and camera shooting mode to AUTO and in a naturally well lit area, take a photo, if the photo is still too bright, you may have something mechanically wrong with your camera.

Nov 03, 2009 | Olympus FE-210 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Fujifilm finepix S1000fd camera how do i set up camera for macro extreme close ups thanks phil


in shooting mode, press the "flower" icon on the command dial. That will put you into the macro mode for close shots. Frame your subject and press the shutter button to confirm focus. If you get an "AF" in red letters, it means you are too close to the subject. Move back a little and press the shutter again. You should be able to fill the entire frame with a standard business card.

Jun 07, 2009 | Enterasys (DAGGT-AA) Modem

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DMC-FZ7 problems


Have you tried switching the mode dial to a flower icon?

The mode with the flower icon is the macro mode, you can shoot up to 5 cm from the subject.

Also, if you are very close to the subject, then the auto-focus may not function properly if the targeting area is not centered on the subject.

When I shoot macro with my FZ7K, I use manual focus, the auto-focus generally has trouble focusing up close.

I would suggest trying manual focus.

Jul 04, 2008 | Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7 Digital Camera

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Better Focus


There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Only us the MACRO MODE for CLOSE-UP photography. Be sure to use MACRO MODE if you are taking pictures of an object at less than six inches away. Be sure not to use Macro Mode for Normal Photography. Using MACRO MODE improperly will result in poor focus (also known as 'fuzzy pictures'). 4. Rely on the LCD Monitor, especially for Telephoto and Macro photography. Due to differences in depth perception, the Viewfinder is not as accurate at the LCD Monitor. When in doubt, trust the LCD. The LCD will display the subject more accurately than the viewfinder. This will help with "framing" the subject, or determining if you have enough light for proper exposure. 5. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.

Sep 11, 2005 | Toshiba PDR-3300 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Better Focus


There are several factors that can contribute to getting better focus and improved results. 1. Auto Focus / Auto Exposure lock. Press the shutter button down HALF WAY. The camera will attempt to adjust exposure to the current lighting environment for maximum benefit. Then the camera will automatically correct the focus based on objects in the center of the display. This process usually takes about two to three seconds. 2. Be sure not to cover the sensor on the front of the camera with your finger. This will disable the automatic focus and exposure controls. 3. Only us the MACRO MODE for CLOSE-UP photography. Be sure to use MACRO MODE if you are taking pictures of an object at less than six inches away. Be sure not to use Macro Mode for Normal Photography. Using MACRO MODE improperly will result in poor focus (also known as 'fuzzy pictures'). 4. Rely on the LCD Monitor, especially for Telephoto and Macro photography. Due to differences in depth perception, the Viewfinder is not as accurate at the LCD Monitor. When in doubt, trust the LCD. The LCD will display the subject more accurately than the viewfinder. This will help with "framing" the subject, or determining if you have enough light for proper exposure. 5. Motion can cause a "blur" effect. Either motion of the subject, or motion by the photographer. This phenomenon is just like traditional photography. Moving objects may appear to blur, and this will be even more evident in lower lighting situations as the shutter speed slows down to allow for more light. The shutter will react faster in bright light, and motion will not be as apparent.

Sep 11, 2005 | Toshiba PDR-3310 Digital Camera

1 Answer

Subject area size


The size of the subject area that will fill the frame is approximately 3.1"x 2.4".

Aug 31, 2005 | Olympus D-535 Zoom / C370 Zoom Digital...

1 Answer

Accessories lenses


Olympus offers the following add-on lens accessory options: MCON-35 Macro Extension Lens (equivalent to 1/4 life size, subject size that will fill the frame is approximately 1.4" x 1.9" f2.4 Tele/f2.0 Wide, 72mm filter size) minimum focusing distance - 4.75 inches. WCON-08B Wide Extension Lens (equivalent to 28mm f2.0 in 35mm photography, 105mm filter size) minimum focusing distance - 3.6 inches TCON-14B 1.45X Tele Extension Lens (equivalent to 200mm f2.4 in 35mm photography, 86mm filter size-tentative) minimum focusing distance -1 ft. TCON-300S Tele Extension Lens (equivalent to 420mm f2.8 in 35mm photography, 49mm filter size) minimum focusing distance - minimum focusing distance - 3.9 ft.

Aug 31, 2005 | Olympus Camedia E-20N Digital Camera

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