We Have an amana model ARSE664BS and the freezer gets ice build up on the coils and eventually eliminated air flow to the refrigerator. We have had the thermastat replace and the Control A board replace. They also checked the Heater and said it was fine. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Their are a few things that couldbe causing your refrig.troubles.
1) their is ice build up in the return air vents that is not allowing air to flow correctly you can see the air vents under the crispers in the ref.floor and can see if they blocked with ice.
2) the freezer fan is bad and not circulating cold air into and out of the ref.
3) In addation to the defrost timer,perhaps the deforst heater and defrost thermostat are bad and frost is building up in the freezer,Do ya see frost build up in the freezer??
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The ice block is due to a defrost circuit failure. Typical problems are due to the defrost heater, defrost timer if used on this model and defrost thermostat. Since you are using a heat gun to melt the ice, check the the defrost heater with a meter to determine whether it needs to be replaced.
either the evaporator coil behind the freezer compartment wall is iced over and you can';t move cold air over an iced up evaporator coil to cool the refrigerator compartment or the compressor relay/overload is bad
ck the freezer tempt / if around 15 deg It's not cold enough and ice producton will be slow .clean the cond coil this will help and make sure the cond fan is working . it may also need the charge adjusted ( loss of refergerant ) . or possible cold control . and look for ice build up in back of freezer .. this would slow the air flow . .. **** hope some of these help . ****
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
Ice on the back wall indicates a problem with the defrost cycle. The ice builds up and starts to choke off the air flow, so your symptoms would indicate that may be happening.
Defrost problems are usually any of the three components, the heater element, the defrost termination temp switch, or the defrost timer.
Ahhhh, the classic symptom of a frozen coil/air return duct. You'll have to pull the back panel off the freezer wall to view the coils. The are likely a block of ice causing the air channels on the sides to be frozen, thus blocking air flow. You may need a defrost t-stat or a defrost timer. If the defrost cycle isn't working then you will get a freeze up eventually. The only other reason is if the freezer door was left open slightly overnight letting in moist air. Let us know what you find.
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