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Side rails both side rails slide up and down the metal bar. However, they won't lock in place they just slide back down.

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I have a similar problem, but a different Simmons crib. I called the company that momof4girls unrecommended and they were VERY helpful, but they were not able to ship me the parts as Simmons discontinued this type of hardware in the early 90's. My crib has a headboard and footboard - the 2 side boards are able to slide up and down on aluminum slats (almost 3 feet long.) The aluminum slats are connected to the headboards with 8 bolts; what I needed to order replacements of are the plastic sliders that allow the sidewalls to go up and down on the aluminum bracket. Not only do they allow it to go up and down, but without them you are not able to assemble the sidewalls to the crib at all. I solved the issue buy purchasing L brackets at Lowes and permanently attaching the sidewalls to the headboard and footboard, but it made it so the sidewalls did not raise or lower. I am ok with that! However, if you do NOT have the aluminum slats, you may be out of luck. The spring for the bed attaches on the aluminum brackets, so even if you were able to bolt the 4 sides together, you still have to figure out a way to attach the spring for the mattress (which connects by sliding a hook into holes on the aluminum bracket... no room for bolts here.) I am rather surprised that the hardware for this crib is plastic and aluminum; the bed is HEAVY and it is very difficult to put together as the aluminum slider is easily bent and the plastic sliders are flimsy. I actually broke the plastic pieces during assembly. No wonder this hardware was discontinued! I called Simmons and asked if they had an "updating' kit... they do not. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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I have a TRE 50 stapler and can't remember how to load it.


look at the back of stapler if their is a tab push in and down than slide the unit out place staples on rail and slide the spring unit in and lock into position or if you have the jaw type one grab bottom of stapler push up and back separating the lock and open like a set of jaws the slide lock will slide back with spring place staples on rail and snap closed

Aug 24, 2016 | Office Equipment & Supplies

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Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

on Feb 24, 2011 | Samsung CLX-6200FX Printer

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I cant get the cool select pantry drawer back in


I just had the same problem. The drawer was removed for cleaning and we could not get it back in; it would slide in with about 3 inches not able to go in. Took everything out that we could and still could not get it to go back in all the way. Finally started looking closer at the metal rails and the sides of the drawer and realized there is a tab on each side that needs to be inserted in the the corresponding hole on the metal rail. With the drawer out, pull the rails all the way out; place the side rails of the drawer on the metal side rails and line up the tabs with the holes and insert. Your drawer should now slide in correctly.

Dec 18, 2012 | Samsung RF265AA Bottom Freezer French Door...

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Homelite chainsaw how to install a chain


HOW 2 TRUE UP YOUR BAR SO THE SAW CAN CUT STRAIGHT and
HOW TO replace a chain.
This is for first timers--so dont laugh too hard,all you old timers out there!
and maybe some of you old timers
should read this too, as you might pick up a trick or two.
You might say ," I always wondered why it did that and how to fix it."


first ,you need the proper chain to install so look at your owners manual for the chain number. or use oregon.com cross reference
you will need the make & model # of you saw as well as the bar length and their web site will cross reference you to a oregon chain #.

to install chain: loosen two shiny 3/4 inch bolts on the bar side of the chain saw and look low on the right side of the bar when viewed from the back handle of the saw for the chain tensioning screw.
it is black and has a single slot for a screwdriver.
loosening this screw (but only after the two 3/4 inch BAR LOCK DOWN nuts have been loosened ) will move the bar backwards towards the engine clutch sprocket.

look at the chain mounted on the bar and note the front of the teeth on top of the bar pointed forwards. also note that on the bottom of the bar ,the chain teeth are pointed backwards toward the saw handle.
REMemBER THIS ,so you dont put on the chain backwards and wonder why a new chain wont cut.

take the 3/4 inch nuts off compleatly and hold the bar on so you can see how things should look. you can put 1 nut back on snug to hold the bar in position while you learn your way around.
someplace inside there is a plastic raised picture of a chain tooth to remind you which way the chain teeth go.

there is a sheet metal chain guard sheild on the 2 studs that the 3/4 in nuts came off from. the bottom of the sheet metal guard has a 2&1/2in slot in it and the wings on top & bottom point outwards on the outside shield and inwards on the inside sheild .
P.S. the slots on the bottom of the shield allow the chain tensioner nib to move forwards to tighten the chain and backwards to loosen the chain.
remove the hold on 3/4 nut and take 1 outside sheet metal shield off the studs.

look at the chain bar underneath the two studs that the 3/4 inch nuts came off from. You will see the tip of the chain adjuster tensioning screw fitted through a hole in the bar.
now loosen the chain tension adjustment screw which will move the bar backwards and make the chain loose.
when the chain gets loose enough , you can remove it from the bar. but ,I bet that the will come off or fall off first. dont worry,this normal.after you take the chain off,you have to take the bar off anyways.
wipe the oil & saw dust off the chain,so you can see out of your good eye, like one eyed pete always says, and look at the bar rails.

these are the two rails that the chain drive teeth, the ones that go around the clutch sprocket and the idler sprocket at the tip of the bar ,fit into.
THESE rails must each be the same length or the saw will try to cut circles to either the right or the left. also, the chain teeth must be equally sharp on both the right side facing teeth and on the left side facing teeth, or again, the saw will try to cut circles either to the right or left. The only reason the saw cant cut circles is because the bar is too wide to make the circle. anyways ,the saw is susposed to cut straight and not in circles.


If your saw it cutting right or left,when you get far enough into a curved wood slot , you will reach a point where the chain teeth can no longer touch the wood and cutting stops, even though the motor is still turning the chain.

so,first we need to insure that the bar rails are even with each other and HERE is one way to do it.
Buy some 60 grit emery cloth and put it on a flat table top.
I use the top of my table saw, but any flat table top will work if the table is stable.
Place the bar with the rails perpendicular to the 60 grit emery cloth. THat means --at right angles to,or at 90 degrees,or straight up & down and sand the metal bar until
the rails are even and all chain chatter marks have been sanded off. This is usually the fine finishing step of severly
worn and burnt bars and works well for lightly worn bars.

ANOTHER WAY for really messed up bars is to hold the bar straight up & down on top of the table, with either your hand or clamp it in a bench vise.
DO NOT SQUEEZE THE RAILS together or the drive links of the chain wont be able to fit in the slot and even if they do fit in,they may not run in the slot because the slot is too tight;and that might burn out your centrifical clutch shoes or your electric chain saw motor.

Use first a course double cut metal file to even the chain rails of the bar and then a fine double cut or single cut file to do finishing strokes and then sand with 60 grit emery cloth as above.

Take the file and run it across the 4 inch wide sides of the bar where the rails are worn over the edge so that only a right angle, square edge remains between the 4 inch wide sides of the
bar and the bar's chain running rails.
this will allow the bar to go easily up and down in a wood slot without getting caught and binding and requiring extra force to free up, only to get stuck again & again.

IF YOUR BAR is too messed up for even a file to cure.
use the 6 inch or 8 inch side of a grinding wheel, to true up
the rails. a lighter grit ,like 100 grit circular stone is better than a 60 grit stone ,because the stone is fast and takes off a lot of metal quick . you can use a 60 grit wheel if you have a light sure touch and can see well out of your good eye but an old artheritis riden , and almost blind out of my good eye
unelse im wearing 2.75 power reading glasses , which always slip off my nose when im grinding anyways, id rather use the 100 grit,because its slower, like i am.

YET ANOTHER WAY to true up your bar is to use a bench sander with 60 grit belt. It does a good job , but eventually
you will cut through and rip your belt and have to spend $10.00 to replace it. thats why I dont use it much anymore
after ruining 1 belt & replacing it. But its great for those problem rails and beats spending $30.00 plus tax and $12.95 shipping for a new bar.

SO. now that your bar is all trued up ,we can finally put on the new chain.

You should save you old chain and buy a chain sharpening file and clip on angle holder for the size of file recommended for your model chain. cost about $10.00 and you can get 10 to 15 resharpenings out of one chain
before you end put taking too much metal off the cutting teeth or stretch the chain out too far or break off too many teeth by hiting nails in the wood. (ive done it all) and speak from experience.

NOW, PUT THE BAR back on and make sure that the nub of the chain tensioning screw is in the hole in the bar. You can put 1 3/4 in shiny bar lock down nut on finger snug to things in place. next ,put the chain shield back on the studs and insure that the slot is down [on the bottom side] and that the tenisioner screw nub is still in the hole of the bar and that the shield wings are angled outwards. make sure that the tensioner is all the way towards the back saw handle so the bar is loose and install the chain on to the bar with the cutting teeth facing forward on top of the barand backwards on the bottom of the bar. all the drive teeth should be inside of the top bar rails and should be properly engaged on the clutch sprocket.
If need be ,check the clutch sprocket engagement of the chain's drive teeth by removing the outer shield to look see
and reassemble. place the plastic cover on the 2 bar lock down studs and finger tighten the two-3/4 inch lock down nuts . I usually finger tighten only one of the 3/4 inch lock down nuts in case something pops out from where it is susposed to be ,as it usually does.
NOW, take all but a little bit of tension off the 3/4 inch lock down nut so that they bar can move forward when the screw tensioner is tightened. AS you tighten the bar, the drive teeth will be pulled into the rail slots on the bottom of the bar.
You will need a look see to insure all the drive teeth are inside the rails. Tighten up the chain until it has about 1&1/2 inch slack in the center of the bar and tighten up finger tight
one or both of the bar lock down nuts. now test the chain for free running by turning the chain by hand.
BE VERY CAREFUL where your fingers pinch the chain between thumb and index finger because you dont want to pinch a cutting tooth. you also dont want to loose your grip and have your fingers slip into a cutting tooth.
If you start with the chain somewhat loose,you will feel how easy it is to turn the chain by hand. as you tighten the chain,
it will become harder and harder to turn until it locks solid into place.
WHEN THE CHAIN GETS HARD to turn,this is when you can loose your two finger grip and have your fingers slide into a cutting tooth. the chain is already too tight to run without burning up the clutch a little. loosen the chain until it runs freely but does not sag more than a 1&1/2 INCH TO 2 INCHES in the middle of the bar. There is a point where the chain will not run any more freely even if it is loosened more.
if you hit this point tighten up the chain some until you feel it begining to run harder. check the chain sag tension11/2 inch in the middle of the bar or 2 inch max if the chain seems to be running a little hard.

Its better to have the chain a bit loose that a bit tight but you dont want the chain so loose that it will come off the bar.
new chains stretch a lot a first and will have to be readjusted twice as much as an older chain that is done with most of its stretching.

Jun 13, 2012 | Craftsman sears 18" Chain Saw Chain (...

1 Answer

I have a fisher and paykel dd24ph6 model that will not lock. Where is the locking mechanism located?


the way the dish drawer locks is the lid lowers onto the drawer..on the sides of the drawer are motors that lower and lock the lid into place ..to get to them the drawer must be removed,to remove the drawer remove th pins from the side of the drawer,slide down and off the front panel and push and and release the tabs that lock the drawer to the slide rails..then push the slides back slightly and lift off drawer..on the sides connected to support bracket on each side will be a lid motor. It is advisable to replace both at once

Aug 24, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel DS605I Built-in...

1 Answer

My Kodak Carousel 650H has a stuck slide and the tray won't move. The stuck slide is lined up with the "gate index." I tried releasing the tray but only one side of the tray releases. The...


Two steps.
1) Look down into the center of the carousel. There should be a round, flat silver knob with an elongated notch in it. Take a coin (US 5-cent piece or similar) and use it to turn the knob. This releases the catch on the metal plate under the projector. You should then be able to lift the carousel off. Be careful: some slides will fall out as the slot is not aligned with the carousel body properly once you do this.
2) Make sure the locking ring on top of the carousel is in place (or else take out all your slides. Turn the carousel over and gently rotate the metal plate covering the bottom of the carousel into position. You will hear/feel a "click" when it's in place.

The projector may have jammed because there are two slides stuck in the viewing slot--check for this before you put the carousel back on the projector. If it jams a lot the metal plate under the carousel may be bent.

Jul 17, 2011 | Kodak Carousel 4600 Slide Projector

1 Answer

Window metal bar in the side


That is called a sash window channel balance. It has a spring that is pre loaded and needs to catch on a clip on either side of the window. Just put the bars on both sides, place the window back into portion and flip the clips back in.

Jun 14, 2009 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

2 Answers

Can't get evenflo babygo pack and play support bars to lock


Pull center floor up, then lock all top rails, then push down on center floor.

Jan 16, 2009 | Baby Gear

2 Answers

Trying to take my cd drive out and put in a new one but the old one will not slide out and I do not see any screw that need to be removed


If it is a normal PC, there should be 2 screws on either side of the drive that have to be removed before the drive can come out. Many times you have to remove both sides of the computer case to get to these.

This can vary however from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some put the drives on what are called rails where, if you release the rail it will simply slide out, other times only one side has screws.

If it is a mass manufactured PC (DELL, Gateway, HP, etc.) you should be able to find a manual on their site that would help.

Sep 21, 2008 | Acer Computers & Internet

1 Answer

2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited


Hey all,
I was able to get installation instructions for the cross bars from http://www.capitolhyundai.com and from http://dealerfit.com.  Thanks much to these folks for providing a pdf of these instructions free of charge!
Below is the text from the instruction set that worked best for me.  The other instruction set was nearly identical but it had an alternate Step 2 which involved using a small plastic pry bar.  I added that alternate Step below in the instruction step.  Hopefully I'm able to insert the image of each instruction set so that the Figures are visible.  Its actually not that easy getting the rear rail covers off and its pretty easy to crack them.  I'd recommend gently rocking the covers for a couple minutes in order to loosen them up.  Once you get the covers off, the rest of the install is a breeze and can be done in 2 minutes.  If you have questions, go ahead and contact me.  I also took several photos of my install and that might be helpul.  Cheers!
-LePig
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
SANTA FE 2008 PIN U8210-28000 Cross Bar Assembly Installation Procedures
Kit Contents: • (2) Cross Bar Assemblies Required Tools: • Flat Head Screwdriver
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1. Carefully unscrew and remove radio antenna. 2. Grasp the rear rail covers with both hands. Squeeze and pull up & inwards (toward the center of the vehicle) to remove covers. Take care not to break off the tabs by lifting the rear section of the cover first (Figure 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 2. - Alternate Method - Locate notch in rear of each cover to insert plastic pry bar.  Remove cover by prying up (with tool) and lifting rear at 45 degree angle (Fig 1). Be careful not to scratch, damage or dent any painted surfaces. DO NOT PRY AGAINST THE VEHICLE BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE VEHICLE. 3. Check assembly clips for damage and dislocation. Replace if necessary. 4. Open the lever on one side of front/rear cross bar. Gently set the cross bar, with the arrows facing forward, into the channel of the side rails (Figure 2). Guide both sides into the track. 5. To adjust cross bars, open lever and place cross bars in desired location. Close lever (Figure 3). Try to move bars forward/back until they lock into place. 6. Reinstall rear covers by holding cover at a 45 degree angle and inserting the front tab into the rear of the roof rack. After aligning, snap cover in place (Figure 4). Be sure that the rubber lip does not interfere with the covers, and that the covers are fully seated. 7. Reinstall the radio antenna. Note: To remove the cross bars, remove the antenna, remove the covers, open lever of cross bar and slide to end of rail. Hold down locking fingers (on both RH/LH rear rail supports) with a flat head screwdriver (Figure 5). This will allow removal of cross bars from the rails.

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Jul 02, 2008 | 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited

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