I want to lay a few bricks to finish out mt front stoop.
Noone will help me because they want a big job.
How can I lay brick using the appropriate mortor?
How can I mix and pour the cement on top when finished?
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check the capacity of the gen set and unless it is rated at 1000watts more than the air con that will be your reason
genset not big enough for the job
so read the watts of the air conditioner and for example if that specification is 4000 watts and your gen set is only 3000watts , that is your problem
start at the far end brake one the thirst away from the brake servo or abs if its only 2 line type from the servo. usually driver side rear with abs. jack rear up off ground and remove the wheels put car on stands. using a bleed tool undo the brake nipple and have a clear tue over the top. this is were you need some one to help. run engine for a min or to then turn off. persson on brake undo the brake nipple and person in car pumps the brake pedal. ( make sure there is fluid in brake servo tank) when you see there is no air coming out after the bubbles have come out tell the person to stop. when you want to stop the pedal must be held to the floor until the brake nipple is back on tight. then move on to the next wheel do the same . run engine for min or two. then off do as before. when done the back start on the front. top up to full again in servo tank. jack up front on stands no wheels then start on drivers side front wheel. do that as before then other wheel. if at any time you lose pump pressure . lock down the brake nipple as stated before and start engine then off and restart to bleed again. you can buy a pressure kit to help do this follow the instructions on the kit to do the brakes. tools you will need a brake bleeding spanner 8mm or 9mm depending what has been put in place when fitted. a jar to catch the fluid when draining and bleeding the the line. and a clear tube to see the air in the line. don't rush the job take your time. if and fluid is spilt clean up straight away as if on paint work it will remove the paint.. keep some sand around to clean up fluid off ground or cat litter. when all finished check brakes befor driving around repeat if dont feel right still
Your local machine shop should be able to repair it. There are a few ways to do this depanding on where the crack is located and wheather it goes into the water the oil or the combustion area. Careful welding works pretty well in many cases.To weld, you should grind out some material, maybe1/16 deep and as long as the crack. then preheat gently a good sized area around the crack,maybe 500" .Then DC weld with small nickel rod. Weld a few seconds and wait 20seconds for the heat to disapate. Then repeat 'til the end. Or you can use a wire welder using the same procedure. Another way that has always worked well for me is with tapered cast iron plugs. You drill and tap a hole just past the end of the crack.Then screw one of the tapered plugs in tight with some sealant on the threads. Cut off the plug flush and then drill and tap and plug in a staggered row til you get to the other end. I have done this in-frame on welders and forklift trucks. Google machine shop supplies to find these.They are sold under a few different trade names, Hope this helps, Robert
Sounds to me like you have some water in the carby. To check this, loosen the little screw at the bottom of the carby bowl and catch what comes out in a cupped hand. ( you may need to put it on bricks to do this). If you do have a globule of water running around in the petrol you catch, draining it here for a few seconds with the fuel tap on may be enough to fix it. I would always check the water trap on the bottom of the fuel tap at the same time though. If this only works for a little while, you may need to remove the fuel tank and drain & dry it with a rag and stick. Having said all that, I have had similar symptoms to what you describe, caused by a spark plug, so that is another quick and easy thing to try. Hope this is of some help.
I assume it is a hand start genset. The most common problem if it has been sat for a while is rust on the ignition timing flywheel. If you take the pullcord housing off (recoil) then you will see a big flywheel with what can only be described as a big forked prong with a couple of wires on it. This flywheel should be stainless steel and rusts when sat around for a while without use. Its job is to complete the circuit to the spark plug every time the flywheel passes the forked prong at a given spot on the flywheel, the faster the wheel turns the faster the spark hence the engine runs quicker. Clean the rust off with a releasing agent (wd 40) hey presto!!!!!!!!!!!
The most common problem if it has been sat for a while is rust on the ignition timing flywheel. If you take the pullcord housing off (recoil) then you will see a big flywheel with what can only be described as a big forked prong with a couple of wires on it. This flywheel should be stainless steel and rusts when sat around for a while without use. Its job is to complete the circuit to the spark plug every time the flywheel passes the forked prong at a given spot on the flywheel, the faster the wheel turns the faster the spark hence the engine runs quicker. Clen the rust off with a releasing agent (wd 40) hey presto!!!!!!!!!!!