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First make sure the lens is clean. Now set the dial to P mode. Hold down the flower button for a few seconds and the camera will go into "super macro" mode - keep watching the screen or the viewfinder until this happens. You might also feel the zoom resetting itself. You can now go right up to the subject, literally almost touching it - be careful not to damage the lens by hitting the subject!
I think in normal macro mode 4" is too close.
With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.
Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.
The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).
Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.
I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.
I will try to help you, but please understand that my experience is with Nikon film cameras. Assuming that the D60 works in a manner similar to a Nikon 35 mm body and that Sigma macro lens work like Nikon macro lens, you should be able to determine the usable subject to lens distance by experimentation. First, make sure the lens is in the macro mode. To do this you must set the auto-focus mode control to the manual focus mode (see your manual). On Nikon lenses, you must first set the focus ring to infinity, then move slider switch, which has two positions marked; "normal" and "macro., to the macro position. You should now be able to rotate the focus ring to the macro range. Use the zoom ring to zoom in and out and focus with the focus ring. The the range over which the lens to subject to lens distance will yield an in focus image will be rather limited and in the range of an inch or so to 6 or 8 inches.
From my experience, many zoom lenses that have a macro feature simply kicks into macro mode when the lens is in fully zoomed position. Remember, macro is used to take pictures of something (usually like a flower, insect, etc.) and to magnify it several or many times larger than it really it is. And as a result the subject is huge and sharply focused with a very blurry background. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is usually a focusing limit for the lens in terms of how close one can focus a subject in MACRO zoom mode. In other words, you (the lens) may have to be at least a foot or more away from the subject in order to automatically focus sharply. On this note, if you have manual focusing capability, you should be able to take pictures in macro zoom mode from even shorter distance from the subject, resulting in more larger than life pictures!
The Macro Mode (flower icon button) operating range of the D-595 Zoom camera is 8 inches to 20-inches. This means the camera must be between 8 inches and 20 inches away from the subject for a picture to be in focus when the optical zoom is at it’s greatest wide-angle. The Super-Macro Mode allows you to shoot with the camera as close as 1-inch from the subject. See page 41 of the Advanced Manual in PDF format which is on a separate CD.
The Macro Mode (flower icon / up (^) arrow key) operating range of the D-545 Zoom camera is 8 inches to 20 inches. This means the camera must be between 8 inches and 20 inches away from the subject for a picture to be in focus when the optical zoom is at it’s greatest wide-angle. The Super-Macro Mode allows you to shoot with the camera as close as 1-inch from the subject.