Most dryers (unless this is a gas dryer) use 220 service. Which means, the dryer would not be on the same circuit as the washer. In addition most major applainces require a dedicated circuit. This means the appliance is the ONLY thing running on that particular branch circuit to prevent loading. The dryer working properly may or may not be a good indication that the washer has power. If the washer fills, then it has electrical power. The water inlet solenoids are electronically controlled.
More than likely you have a defective lid switch. If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim
of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim
) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect
.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic
.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop
all them for the best price.
NOTE: Some washer models have the lid switch located near either the left or right hinge of the lid. This type of switch is activated by a rod on the hinge pin. If not functioning, it can often be adjusted by bending the hinge rod until it engages the switch.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.