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No heat i can hear the switch but the flame does not ignite

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Based on your generic question, I can only provide generic answers that might help you get it going.. First off, are you sure you have gas coming into the dryer? If yes, then when you start a dry cycle... can you see any evidence that the igniter is working( usually an orange glow inside )...If everything appears to be OK.. then you could have a problem with your igniter, over-temp sense switches and on some models.. they have over-temp switches that have a reset button on them ( clever little money maker for the sevice guiys...these dryer manufacturers).. anyway.. those are the most likely candidates that would disable a fire strike and heat. If you could provide specific brand and model number next time.. that would help..

Hope this helps..

Posted on Aug 24, 2008

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Fan is blowing in furnace, thermostat raised 10 degrees over ambient temperature and not heating home. Red and green lights blinking intermittently on control board.


Cycle the power first & see if the furnace goes through the normal sequence of order. On a call for heat, the vent inducer motor should turn on and the pressure switch should prove negative draft in the heat exchanger. the board then should power the ignition phase whenter it is hot surface ignition, or spark, you should hear a spark or see the orange glow of the ignitor & the gas valve is timed to turn on. If you have proper gas to the furnace, it should allow the gas to flow through the gas valve & ignite the flame. Once the flame is ignited, the romote or local sensor should sense the flame & the blower then kicks on from the time delay in the board. If you don't have any ignition, then something is wrong with either the ignitor, ignition module, pressure switch, or you have a manual limit that is tripped(this looks like a small 1/2 inch disc with a reset button on it) If you have ignition & the flame lights, but drops out, then your flame sensor is dirty & needs a touch of sand paper to clean it up(this looks like a 3 inch metal rod opposite of the ignitor) Make sure your power is off when you clean the sensor if you need to. Also if there is no ignition & the vent inducer motor is running... if it is hot surface igniton, there is a molex plug on the leead wires to it- disconnect & check continuity- should be under 110 ohms.

Sep 03, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

My heater isn't blowing any heat. I hear the fan come in, and i think i hear the gas come on, but nothing comes out of the vents. The fan only comes on for a couple of minutes and then goes off.


Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

Jan 28, 2011 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

1 Answer

Goodman gms80903bna light blinks once fan runs all the time,


I believe this code is ignition failure.
Turn power off and after 20 seconds turn power on with thermostat calling for heat. Vent blower should come on first. After a bit igniter should lite up. You should hear click noise of gas valve open up. If igniter does lite and you hear click noise, flame should come on for a few seconds minimum. If igniter doesn't lite and you hear click noise from gas valve, igniter is bad. If flame lites and then goes out, flame sensor probably needs cleaned. Both igniter and flame sensor are in metal plate under burners. Igniter has 2 wire going to it and flame sensor has one wire. If you think it is flame sensor you can remove with taking it out with 1 1/4" hex screw. Flame sensor will have white film on it if it needs cleaned, clean with steel wool or a dollar bill. If it isn't weither of these it is gas valve or circuit board.

Jan 27, 2011 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Hi, I have a vokera 726 combi boiler that will not ignite... when I switch on I can hear the fan but I cannot hear the ignition sparking then error code 01 shows up....hope you can help....many thanks


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem

Dec 28, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Goodman unit. when i turn it on the blower fan and the exhaust fan comes on butit does not lite no flames at all. i don't even hear the gas click in.


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Feb 15, 2010 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Fan comes one, should hear whooshing of ignition,


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 27, 2010 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have an intertherm gas furnace and it will turn on but it takse almost an hour from the time i turn the heat up until it kicks on. I can hear the click and it sounds like the motor is humming. I have...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 23, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Having problem with the bake igniter not always igniting. Hear clicking, but no flame. Doesn't happen all the time.


You may have a weak igniter or a bad safety valve depending on the model. Let me explain. Their are many different types of oven valves. Some use glowbar and others use standing pilots, still others use a igniter with a safety valve and flame detecting switch. So you do not have a generic problem. To get a specific answer I will need the model number. Since you say you hear the clicking I am gonna assume that is a standing pilot with spark igniter nd safety valve/flame switch. In that case you either need to replace the valve if it is a combination one with thermocouple and valve all in one package or the flame detecting switch if your model has indeed a stand alone falme switch I have some repair photos: HERE

Jan 22, 2010 | Kenmore Ovens

3 Answers

Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 06, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

8 Answers

Carrier furnace weathermaker 8000


. Several times of recyling power normally brings the furnance up. Though the failure code has always been 31, there are several different behaviour when the blower starts after reset :
a. blower simply creases.
b. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), then everything stops.
c. there is an attempt to start the heating unit (I hear the high pitch noises), once I see the orange glow from the coil, normally the gas is lit up and the unit starts working.

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