1998 Toyota Siennia rear end vibration at 55 and up. Installed new tires and new brake drums and shoes.Could the new drums come out of balance?

Noise after replacing rear brake shoes and drums...help! - Toyota ...

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Jan 19, 2010 - 15 posts - ‎9 authors Check to make sure the new drums dont have a longer/thicker drum face that is scraping the back plate. ... 1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E .... I experienced rear shoebrake clicking/clacking with an older Saturn. ... plate and to be banged back against the plate causing the clicking or clacking noise. screeching noise from rotors + brakepads after ...
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check suspension rubbers and ball joints especially on the drive line end ( front drive --cv joints, ball joints , steering rod ends etc
rear end drive check for suspension movement that is allowing the drive line to change and causing problems with the "U" joints angles

I would say your problem is still possibly brake related because of your experience with clamping the rear lines. You have changed everything out in the system except the Master Cylinder and the actual brake lines. Never heard of Master Cylinder causing symptoms you describe, but I am only a shade tree mechanic. My only other suggestion would be to verify your rear tires are properly balanced. There is very little weight in the rear of a pickup and unbalanced tire(s) would exhibit the symptom in any car, but most especially in the rear of an unloaded truck. This is a tough one! Keep us posted on your progress in getting this one fixed.

A SOLUTION for my 95 E350 club wagon: High speed vibration at 70 that went extreme if braking. Checked and replaced every other likely cause. The fix came when discovering that in the rear drums the mechanism to activate the emergency/parking brake was jammed and corroded. This caused the brakes to drag slightly and heat up and glaze the brake shoes. Cleaning and lubricating that mechanism (along with new shoes) made the severe vibration go away. The mechanic said that in 20 years of fixing cars, he had never seen this.
The vibration felt like it was in the front end, but not so. Before finding the problem there was wasted costs in parts and labor that did not fix the problem; including wheel balancing, rotor and pad replacements, shoe and drum replacement, wheel bearing replacement, suspension bushing replacement, shock absorber, pitman arm, sway bar, ball joints, sway bar bushing replacement, and ball joint.
Hopefully you can save all that cost and time by a quick check of the drum emergency brake mechanism. The good side is my suspension is good for another 200,000 miles now. That was costly.

Generally, vibrations occurring when you are braking are caused by warped brake rotors or drums (depending on what you have). The problem will get progressively worse the more you use the brakes. The only cure is to replace the rotors (or drums). You cannot see the warping.

Wobbling or vibration at 60-70 usually is a tire that's either thrown a weight (balancing weight) or a tire that has a broken belt (internally). Try getting the tires balanced.

Try to adjust the rear brakes tighter at the shoes, if you have drum brakes. May require taking the drum off and adjusting the adjuster. Or, adjusting it from the backing plate access hole if there is one.

Be sure to check the cables to make sure they are not broken anywhere between the hand brake lever and the back brakes.

Good luck on this repair.

ADJUSTMENT

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Remove the brake drum.
   
4. Using a brake adjusting gauge, measure the inside diameter of the brake
   drum.
   
5. Compare the brake drum measurement to the brake shoes.
   
6. Adjust the brake shoes by inserting a brake adjustment tool into the knurled
   quadrant of the rear quad operating lever and adjust the shoes to the same
   measurement as the brake drum.
   
7. Install the brake drum.
   
8. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
   
9. Lower the vehicle.
   
10. Check the brake system operation by making several stops while driving
    slowly forward.

you need wheels balanced, simple and cheap

:)

Check wheel bearings on all four corners and check front ball joints and tie rod ends for play.

just wanted to stop to offer some tips. I just put in new brakes on last night. I too had the same problem. The brakes were fine, but I replaced them anyway. The drum seem fine, and my emergency cable was a bit loose too. What you can try is hiting the ebrake while going in reverse or in drive. It may help. If not, adjust the ebrake cable will be needed, it not too hard to do. It should be by the rear tires towards the center.

Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.