Question about Washing Machines
SOURCE: My wash spins SO loudly
Had the same problem with my Neptune and is was not the bearing (there's only one). I replaced my washer with a new tub and bearing which was factory pressed in the tub (couldn't just by the bearing) after all this I found that the spinner support (which has three arms holding the tub) on the back of the tub had one of the three bolts broke and was throwing the washer out of balance and creating a loud knocking sound when it would spin. Replaced the stainless bolt and everything was fine. The repair man told me what he thought was wrong with my machine so I did the repair myself and found out after the fact that I wouldn't have had to spend all the money on the new parts if I would have just investigated the problem further.
Posted on Nov 29, 2007
SOURCE: loud noise during spin cycle
this is my experience repairing the maytag washer Atlantis mav series 9750 aww, I had to replace the spin bearing since it was making a jet engine noise when it was spinning out the water. its not an easy job for my 1st time taking this machine apart, you literally take it all apart to get to this bearing, but now I can show how to do it with pictures making it easier for you to do it. even if you have to replace something other than the spin bearing, this how to tutorial will show you how to get to most of the parts in this machine
tutorial located here tutorial located here https://sites.google.com/site/maytagwasherrepair/maytag-washer-repair
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle
The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Your maytag is really an amana and the bearings are bad. Yes it does cost a lot. If i were you i would buy another washer. Get a whirlpool. (whirlpool now owns maytag)
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
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