Saw your repair but am having difficulty with locating the ten (10) resistors that need to be re-soldered. Can you post a picture? I see five (5) 2R7's that someone identified as the resistors to be soldered. They are directly in the front. I see three (3) more about 1" directly to the right where there is some glue holding another component. Are those to be re-soldered also? Do you do this repair? My vision is not quite what it used to be and am basically afraid to try it...
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Re: Kenwood MP532U display out
It is those 8 you identified for your model number. It is not the exact same number of resistors for every model. In fact, it is possible that it may not be the same solution for your model, but it probably is. You may have been looking at the solution for the same problem on a different model number. I can not remember 100% right now and if I were at work I could look it up on some old service tickets to make sure it is the same solution or not. Right now I am off of work for the next month or more rehabbing my neck, I just had surgery on it a couple of days ago.
It really is easy to resolder those resistors, just put a very small amount of solder on each one. Put the hot iron on the solder pad, just touch it with some solder, then go to the next solder connection. All 8 of the resistors need some fresh solder and you did identify them all, I can tell by how you explained it. I have done this repair many times, but I forget sometimes exactly which model numbers it is the valid solution for. I work on so many different model numbers of Kenwood car stereo's and it makes if difficult sometimes to be certain. Since you have the surface mount resistors and they are as you described, it should be the correct solution for your problem.
Let me know how you do with it, I would send a picture if I had one, but I don't.
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Reflow sounds like the article is referring to cracked solder joints, Reflow would mean to reheat the connection and top up means adding some more solder. In electronics, heavy heat sinks often crack where they are soldered because of expansion and contraction. RCA actually came out with a more flexible solder for this issue.
This is a similar repair, but the resistors you need to reflow solder on ae on the bottom of the circuit board, not the top like the other models. The reference numbers for the resistors are R130, R131, R133, R135, R136, R137, R138, R139, R140, AND R141.
They are 4.7 ohm resistors and should have "4R7" printed on the top of them. They are not as close together as the other model has them, but if you take the board out of the unit you should be able to find them. Put just a touch of solder on both sides of each resistor. This should be plenty to fix this problem.
It is also possible that you may have another cause for this problem, but this is the most likely cause.
I hope this is some help for you. Let me know if you need further instructions.
iPod Adapter Compatible: Using the KCA-iP500 iPod Control Interface, you can connect your Apple iPod digital music player to this receiver. The interface (item # 113IP500) plugs into the receiver's 13-pin CD changer input and controls the iPod through the receiver's controls, as well as displays the iPod's text information right on the receiver's display.
The problem is not the faceplate for any of you, it is inside the main
unit. If you know how to solder, you can fix is very easy. First take
the top off the unit, there is 1 screw in the back middle. Then take
the CD player out. It has 2 screws holding it in at the front corners
at the bottom of the CD deck. Use a number 2 phillips and take out the
gold screws holding the CD deck in place. Then you can pull out the CD
deck, and be careful not to damage the ribbon cable connected from the
CD deck to the main board. The deck can just sit up and over to the
left to get it out of the way for what needs to be soldered.
Look inside the main unit on the board and you will see in the front
right corner a series of surface mount resistors all connected in
series. Just reflow that solder on them with a small amount of new
solder added and the display will once again work perfectly. That
solder is very heat stressed, that is the problem. I have fixed dozens
of these over the last few years. Make sure you put it back together
the same as it came apart, and you are done.
I am not sure exactly what solution you are reffering to, but the KDC-MP532U has a problem with the display going out that is the result of heat stressed solder on the main board. The surface mount resistors that are located on the right side near the front of the unit, as you look into it with the display facing you, are the culprits. This is common in about 3 or 4 Kenwood models. These surface mount resistors are on the top of the board, so the board doesn't need to be taken out to fix it. Just the CD mech does. The surface mount resistors just need the solder reflowed, an easy enough job if you know how to solder. They are all lined up connected to each other, I don't remember the reference numbers, but if you can recognize what a surface mount resistor looks like, you should be able to find them very easy.
Thanks for the compliment on the other post, it is appreciated. A good rating would also be appreciated.
I read up on this and saw Tech48's post related to a different model. He's the one who deserves the credit. I'm just the rookie who has the soldering iron. However, here's a picture of the 5 resistors that you need to reflow and "top up"
My model is the KDC-MP532U (same as the 532, but with the USB option).
Here's the overall view. The CD-Player is standing on its edge at the bottom. The resistors are on the bottom right by the brass screw post.
...and here's a close up of the board and the resistors....
Hope it helps. Thanks Tech48!!!! It's like I've got a new stereo!!