Which way does the top spring go in? (theres a fix hook like curve at one end a different hook at the other end of the spring)

OK. Is this a new problem or has it always done it? Mount hooks need to be a close fit to stop the scooter flexing and bending as you roll over rougher ground. How old is this scooter? Do you do a lot of miles on it?
Sometimes the fix can be as simple as giving it a good clean. Take the scooter apart. Take a close look at the mounting rail on the motor section. Grip the position for the hook lightly and twist like a motorcycle grip. Does the tape come loose or fall off? Is the rail really dirty? Carefully remove any loose tape as loose ends can fold over making the rail too big for the hook. This tape can be replaced but I find you can use the scooter just a safely without it.
Next check the hook on the main body of the scooter. Again is the tape coating on the hook loose, missing or really dirty? Check inside the hook's curve as well as the outside.
Is yours fitted with the spring loaded pull release to remove the foot plate from the motor section? Check that this is clean and moving smoothly. If this is sticking it won't release the hook properly. Apply a Small amount of light oil like '3 in 1' or 'GT85' to both ends of the hinge on the release latch and move it a good few times to work the oil across the hinge. Do Not use WD40 because this is NOT an oil.
See if this helps and use the comment button below if you need more help.

Three suggestions. One, find a smaller helper to do it for you. (Obvious and silly but it's worked for me).
Two, try attacking it from a different direction. Above, below or inside the boot.
Three, have a look at some more specialist tools for working around the problem. Flexible extension bars, crows feet spanners, swan neck spanners or curved handle spanners. You can get them curved as an S and as C shape.
Once you've slackened the bolt you could use one of those flexible rods with the spring loaded claw in the end to unscrew and remove the bolt.

....the wear marks normally show you how it was assembled, if they are new, shouldn't really matter

the spring on a clutch pedal is for returning pedal back after taking foot off it ,i dont think it holds the cable anywhere,it will hook on to pedal at top and the other end will hook to a bracket towards driver under dash get a torch lay on your back and you should see where the bracket is it will be directly inline with the pedal

Best Answer - Chosen by AskerWhat is the difference between control arms bushions and ball joints. There is a big difference between the two and the job they do. The bushion conect the control arms to the fram. There are two bushion per control arms. So there is a total of four per front wheel. Two for the upper control arm and two per lower control arm. It let's the vehicle go up and down. And is the back half of the the system that hold the coil spring in place with the two control arms. The ball joint are known as upper and lower ball joint. So you have two ball joints per front wheel. They hook in to the outter end's of the control arms. And hook to the top and botton of the spinner. They allow you to trun the wheel's to the left and right. Along with the spinner hole the outter side of the control arms to hole the coil springs in place. Putting the spring under pressure. In small a Srud is used and takes the place of the bushion's and ball joint's.
What has play in it? There should be some play but you should be able to move it by hand. Most ball joint's can be lubbed. If it still has play of a 1/4 inch it should be replaced. A really bad ball joint can pull out of the socket. This will cause the wheel go up in the fencer well. If the top one brakes loose the wheel will lay down. That is the danagous of the ball joint giving away. It will be hard to control the car to a stop. The bushion's will let moving of the part and wear out the front tires really fash.
I know you don't care to hear this. The car should go to a front end shop. Where they have the special tools to do the job safety. Pluse can line the vehicle back up. When it will need. It be cheaper than a roll over.

Source(s):

ASE & Master Mechanic

Here's a link to the pull of spring,enlarge photo to see,it's in middle of back shoe.

Yes, you need to locate the right tool. AND BE CAREFUL WITH THAT SPRING !!

if the strut is through the center of the spring yes it will have tension on the spring remove the three nuts off the top of the strut mount plate unbolt it from the sway bar and spindle (removing any brake hoses or wires attached of course) remove from vehicle. there are spring compressors that have 2 hooks and a large bolt to draw off the spring tension you could probley borrow them from any local parts place with the tension released unbolt strut dont attempt to remove strut without taking the tension off could end up nasty!!!

Basically the shock inserts in the struts are what hold the spring in place, and the axle knuckle to the fender.

On a very few cars, they were slick enough to design it so that you don't have to do very much.
On these exceptions, you just remove a plate from the top of the strut, in the engine compartment, and pull the insert up after unscrewing a cap.

But on most cars, you have to first drop the top of the strut down from the fender, then undo the pinch bolts at the bottom, in order to remove the whole strut from the car. Then you put a large spring compressor on it to remove the tension. (this is dangerous) You can rent or buy inexpensive spring compressors, because some are just a pair of threaded rods with hooks on both ends. Then you take the top plate off the strut by removing the nut threaded onto the insert shaft. Then there is a cap on the end of the strut tube, that allows the insert to be removed. The tube may be filled with oil. By accident if leaking, or be design with some cars, for cooling. Then you slip the new intsert in, cap it down, put the compressed spring back on, tighten up the top plate with the nut threaded on the shaft, uncompress the spring, and then place the strut back on the lower knucke, and finally back in the fender.

The difference between the fronts and rear is that the front may have an excentric bolt on the bottom, so that you can adjust the camber. If so, mark it before losening, so that you can put it back at the same angle of rotation. A chisel mark will do. The rear usually does not have alignment.

Do you know what a Slide Hammer looks like? A long rod with a handle on the end, and a weight that slides on the rod. The weight hits against a stop made into the handle. At the end of the rod you attach various tools. You can attach a hook, or a threaded bolt, or screw, and many other attachments.

The reason I described a Slide Hammer, is that there is a miniaturized version of it, to remove hard to get at seals. At the end of this tool it has two 'fingers'. (Spring steel pieces of hooked flat metal) These fingers are forced through the rubber part of the seal, and the fingers spread out. They catch the metal outer ring of the seal.

Then the weight on this small slide hammer is slid hard against the handle, and after a few taps it withdraws the seal.

This link is to illustrate one companies version of this tool,

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-Tools-OTC1173-Slide-538274577/prices-html

Kind of pricey if a person just wants to use it one or two times! However it is the proper professional way.

There is another method that you may want to consider. Not a professional method, but if done correctly, it can save you in a pinch. (And also save $80 to $100 for the above tool!)

With this method you have to use care not to scratch the selector rod shaft, nor accidentally scratch the bore of the transmission, where the seal goes into.
A sturdy pick tool with a curved hook end is used. You carefully feed the tip of the curved hook, through the rubber portion of the seal. Then you clamp a pair of vise grips onto the pick tool towards the end of the tool. (Opposite end of the curved hook)

Making - Sure the tip of the hook, is resting against the middle of the metal part of the seal, you tap the pair of vise grips with a Small hammer. Tap the vise grips so that they are pulling against the tool, pulling the seal out.

Use the tool to pull out on the seal's metal ring on one side, then slide the tool over to the opposite side, and start tapping again. Keep working around the seal, until you work it out far enough to grab it with pliers, or needle nose vise grips.