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THE GOAL HEAR IS TO DETERMINE IF THE INSTALLATION IS CAUSING YOUR PROTECTION FAULT OR IS IT THE RADIO OR AMPLIFIER ITSELF HAVING INTERNAL DAMAGE. REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL POWERS UP ON ITS OWN, THEN REMOVE THE REMOTE TERMINAL COMING FROM THE RADIO. IF THE AMPLIFIER SHUTS OFF, THEN YOU MAY HAVE A SHORTED TURN-ON TRANSISTOR WITHIN THE RADIO AND IT IS OUTPUTTING THE DC NEEDED TO TURN THE AMPLIFIER ON. IF YOU REMOVE THE REMOTE TURN-ON FROM THE RADIO TO THE AMPLIFIER AND THE AMPLIFIER STAYS ON, THEN THIS POINTS TO A FAULT WITHIN THE AMPLIFIER AND IT WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. MAKES SURE THAT THE AMPLIFIER AND RADIO GROUNDS ARE 100%. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage is OK, the amp will likely need to be repaired. If that's the case, do you want to repair it yourself? This amp may not be easy to repair. If you are not interested in learning to do this type of work, you should pay to have it repaired. If you want to repair it yourself, I'll try to help you through it.
There may be several bad components. Normally, shorted outputs (the most likely cause of DC on the outputs) causes the amp to go into protect mode. In your amp, you may have shorted output transistors, open emitter resistors and possibly a problem with the protection circuit.
To get up to speed on the basics, read through the following page:
This is generally caused when there are blown output transistors but that generally causes the fuse to blow or causes the amp to go into protect mode.
If you connect a 15 amp fuse in series with the main power wire and it blows when remote voltage is applied, the amp is drawing excessive current. The problem could be either in the power supply or audio circuits.
Do NOT apply power without having the transistors clamped TIGHTLY to the heatsink. They can fail in seconds when there is a problem. The heatsink helps protect them.
The following page may be helpful when troubleshooting.
ok i think you might be lucky, i just had this problem for like 2 months.........k with your cd player on, get a multimeter turn it to DC volts, put the black probe on the ground of the amp and touch the red the power or remote, if its under 11 volts you found it....most likely its the fuse right off the battery check it at the far side with the multimeter......hopefully this helps
1st make sure the speakers are not bad, check th eimpedance with a multimeter, the voice ciols should read 3.9 to 4.3 ohm's. if any of your subs are below this most likly the subs are bad. if they are ok make sure the ground for the amp is good. now the last thing is the amp. try another pair of speakers, even if it's smaller ones, just make sure they are 4 ohm speakers, keep the vol. very low during your test. if the other speakers do not work then have your amp serviced or replaced. good luck
Sounds like you may have a shorted switching Transistor in the switch mode power supply causing a short to ground. If you are technical enough. Remove power remove cover and do a continuity test on the transistors on the heatsink. non of them should read zero resistance between the three legs. in all connection configuration you use to hook up your meter. If one or Two or even all of them do you must replace with proper part.