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Probably the quickest way is to replace it see if the lights now work.
If you have a multimeter you can set this to check continuity.
Look for a symbol that looks like a sound wave.
Caution: Do not test with power to the fuse!!
You can pull the fuse from the socket. Touch the Red probe to one Leg of the fuse. The black probe to the other leg. Don't worry about polarity here. You can switch the probes and will get the same results.
The multimeter will impart a tiny voltage that is picked up by the other probe. If you get a reading it is good. If you get 0 or not ready.
The fuse is bad / blown will need to be replaced.
Hope this helps
Using a multimeter and reading for 24 volts will not provide the "common" leg of the 24 volt control power provided by your transformer, the other circuits besides RED, red being where the 24 volt "hot leg" enters the thermostat, the remaining circuits, heat or cool or fan will also read 24 volts to Red since it will read Common through the back door so to speak, the new NEST thermostats claim to need no Common leg for this reason however it will not work with every situation as far as the NEST goes. The only way to definitively know you have the Common leg of the 24 volt control power is go to the air handler and see what is on the C or Common terminal, Colors as stated as confusing and are only there to decipher the circuit as in cool or fan or heat etc. Common is akin to the NEG on a car battery, it is the side of power every 24 volt circuit terminates upon to complete its circuit, thus the common name.
Check the battery is charged first and that power is getting to the laptop by the DC Jack. You can test this by setting a multimeter to 20V DC and touching one probe to the inner part of the DC jack and the other probe to the Outer (earth) of the DC jack (red to inner black to outer). I'm assuming the fuse in the plug of the adaptor is ok...
If there is power getting to the DC jack, check the connection to the DC jack socket on the motherboard, if it feels sloppy or loose, this is where the problem may be.
If the fit is tight and the AC adaptor is supplying power, you could have a ram issue. Romove each ram module in turn and try to see if the laptop boots then, if one stops it booting, it needs replaced.
Failing this, you could have a fault on the motherboard which will need technical investigation
If there is no picture,and the set will not power on,then the horizontal out put is shorted causing the set to shut down on a protect signal. You can check it yourself if you have a multimeter. Look for a 3 legged transistor on a metal heat sink and put the multimeter in diode scale. The outer two legs will always read 0, but the middle to outer legs should NOT. If it does,then the horizontal output is the culprit but the tv needs to be serviced anyway to make sure that there is not an underlying problem that caused the output to short to begin with. This is also the answer to 90% of picture tube (CRT) televisions that have either lost power and/or lost picture.
Most of the oven elements are very easy to replace. Depending on your brand and model the part may not be very expensive either. If you are sure it is the element then go buy the new one. To test your current ellement to see if it is in fact burnt out you can use a multimeter if you have one. You set the multimeter to Ohms and it should beep when you touch the two tester contacts together. Then touch each of the tester contacts to each contact on the element after you remove it and disconnect the wires from the oven. If the meter beeps the element is good if you get no beep then its bad. You dont have to do all that but it helps to keep from buying parts you didnt need to replace.
what you have is a bad inverter transformer on the inverter board. I nashed my teeth on this problem for a long time because no diagram is avail. Here's the fix for you:
Remove the invertor board. Take an Ohm meter and measure the outer 4 legs of each transformer. Between pins 1 and 4 (side with the white dot near leg 1) you should read .3 ohms. This side is usually good. Between pins 5 and 8 you should read approx 1.8 to 1.9Kohms. ANYTHING above that is a defective transformer. I'm sorry I do not have the part number for this, I've just been using an old board from a set with a cracked panel. If I can find a part number I will try to post. You can try Encompass parts on the web, they may be able to supply part number and transformer with location number.
This is generally caused when there are blown output transistors but that generally causes the fuse to blow or causes the amp to go into protect mode.
If you connect a 15 amp fuse in series with the main power wire and it blows when remote voltage is applied, the amp is drawing excessive current. The problem could be either in the power supply or audio circuits.
Do NOT apply power without having the transistors clamped TIGHTLY to the heatsink. They can fail in seconds when there is a problem. The heatsink helps protect them.
The following page may be helpful when troubleshooting.
I believe this set has a horizontal output that has a damper diode inside. you can check inset or out, most popular is out set. take multimeter and put on ohms or continuity and touch each leg by holding one lead to end and if you are looking for a short then in continuity it will beep or zero or very ohms. And Ohms just the same way. looking for low ohms like 1.0 or 0.9 or anything close. Switching leggs back and forth. If all three legs are shorted then replace. but in this one 2 can be shorted and still be good, just depends on which ones