Question about Norelco Reflex 5841 XL Electric Shaver

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How to change battery in Norelco 5841XL razor

I have a replacement battery, and have opened the back of the razor. Now, is the old battery soldered in?  or is it snapped into the plastic holder and the contacts also snapped in?  or do I have to pull the plastic holder (in which the old battery is located) out of the razor in order to insert the new battery?    Thanks.   Howard  at h.hbrown@verizon.net

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  • Bob Smith Sep 09, 2008

    how do I open up the razor tyo change battery in my norelco

  • murray246 Nov 20, 2008

    I would like to know how to open the back of the razor to get at the battery.




  • Anonymous Dec 25, 2008

    I tried to unsolder and old Norelco and it's not easy.
    You know they weren''t going to make it easy so you have to take it to a dealer.
    First you can't unsolder the 2 flat wires from the batteries, they seemed to be permanent. The other ends go into a circuit board. It is very difficult to unsolder them but I did it. You have to be careful not to damage the electronic components.
    I melted some plastic and generally butchered the job. You have to use heat sinks etc. to protect other components from damage.
    I through the whole thing out. Luckily I tried it on an old one first that didn't work.
    Next I'm going to try to cut the flat wire as close to the old batteries as possible. Then try to solder the ends from the new batteries to the stubs of the old battery, trying to stay away from the circuit board. You need special tools to do it there.
    I'll let you know if successful.
    Barry

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8/20/2009 I have successfully replaced batteries on Norelco 5841xl. Purchased 4AA NiMH rechargable batteries from CVS for $9.50. Only need 2. Removed 2 Philips/straight screws on back cover(1 screw hidden under sideburn trimmer extension button).
Specially, be sure to mark on the shaver which way the batteries are inserted, 'cause once removed there are no marks to tell which way to go. The 2 batteries are "SPOT WELDED" to the metal ribbon contact wires. I used a sharp jack-knife to carefully pry the top edge away from the battery, (Pressing down sharp edge, and prying the ribbon away from the battery) then with the knife reaching under the ribbon battery junction(knife sharp side up) and prying the ribbon away from the battery. I redid this process a few times, wearing away (fatiguing the metal) at the removal of the ribbon. the top of one sort-of broke off above the battery but no matter there was enough left below , that there was enough to solder a wire to if necessary. Anyway "success" 2 batteries removed, no threat to heat sensitive components below. Continuing, I used a sharp new nail-file to harshly scrape some scratches onto the top and bottom of the batteries, so the solder would have fresh rough (un-oxidized) metal to solder to. A 15 or 30 watt soldering iron might work but I used a 120 watt weller soldering gun to solder the ribbons to the batteries (as they were connected in series before). preheat the soldering tool to temp, Press soldering tool to the battery briefly and while there insert "rosin core solder" between junction between the battery and iron, after a small droplet forms, stop inserting and let the heat on the battery increase, seeing the solder wetting to the battery, only then remove heat quickly to prevent deeper heating of the battery. Having presoldered the 4 points on the batterys, insert batteries into holder, you can then solder batteries into place with iron pressing ribbon to battery, and a small touch of solder to the iron-ribbon-battery junction, to help "wetting" the surfaces (thereby helping the iron heat to transfer into the joint) and remove heat and let joint cool without movement, 'til frozen again. (Don't want "Cold-Soldering" joint to occur by movement while freezing) . One special note worth checking and evaluating: there are 2 capacitor cans at the bottom end of the battery holder, almost touching the bottom of the batteries..... BE VERY CAREFUL that the caps don't touch the horizontal wire connecting the 2 batteries together, or the batteries themselves. I have no knowledge of the concequences but don't wanna find out either. My shaver was 8 maybe 10 years old, and went from holding a charge for a week new, to not holding a useable charge for a complete shave. So I charged the newones once fully, it's been 2 weeks and I'm only down 20% to 80% charged, and it seems now on batteries to run just a little bit faster than new. (Like when the cord is in the wall). Avery awesome experience for me cause I thought the $90.00 shaver was a loss.
Just a thought in hindsight, Keep an eye for heat while charging, because I've not plugged it in and left it a long time unattended. The previous batteries were NiCad and these were NiMH and I'm not sure what the charging differences are, but I'm REAL HAPPY, and my keeping an eye for a while until I'm comfortable with it's safety, is a small price to pay for saving $90.00 for $10 batteries.
Only problem might be fire or explosion... Be careful in anything you do, ever... But there you go !!!!! Real Happy Camper...

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

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You remove the four phillips screws on the back of the shaver, remove the back, cut the metallic ribbons on the old battery leaving the part still connected to the circuit board as long as possible (ribbon is soldered to battery and to circuit board and you will do too much damage trying to unsolder it). Now solder the new battery's ribbon to the piece of the old battery's ribbon that is still soldered to the circuit board. When you replace the back, try the slide power-on switch on the front to confirm the shaver shuts off and turns on with the slide off/on switch. If it stays on or won't turn on you probably do not have the small piece below the circuit board in place correctly. It must slide properly to turn power on and off.

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

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This is a followup to the previous report by me. it was 8/20/2009 I posted the solution, I had 2 good weeks on the first charge, it's now 9/27/2009 and on the same first charge, the Illuminated charge bar just reached the red, so I'm at 20% charged, so It's going to be almost 2 months, shaving once a day, before the charge runs out and I'll have to recharge... those CVS Drugstore NIMH ( Nickel-MetalHydride) batteries with 2450 MilliAmpHours of charge, certainly were a good choice...
Good Luck You All. Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

  • Bruce Foote Nov 04, 2009

    This is a followup to both the previous reports by me. It's 11/3/2009 and the first charge finally ran out. That is, I've been shaving on my first charge since about 8/6/2009. Incredible. near 3 months on one charge. Now I've now charged it over night for the next run. No overheating or other problems. The CVS NIMH batteries were a real good choice.

    Good Luck You All. Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

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I also replaced the batteries in my 5841 XL with AA NiMH bateries. I used Energizer's rated at 2650 MAH. So far, so good. The 5841's charger works fine with them and I am still on the first charge. I am a skilled electronics technician, so unsoldering the old batteries and soldering in the new ones was easy. I won't go into the repair details - if you are good at repairing things and have basic soldering skills it's fairly easy. If you do not have those skills find someone who does to do it for you. Anyone with electronics repair experience should have no problem with it. Total repair time for me was about 30 minutes beginning to end.

Posted on Nov 28, 2009

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This repair requires a soldering gun, or a very small soldering iron. I bought an exact replacement NiCd battery pack from a vendor on Amazon for about $9. After removing the 4 screws holding on the back of the case, I used a small wire cutter to clip the battery leads, which are flat strips, at the spot welds on the old battery pack, After cleaning the metal surfaces, I soldered the strips of the new battery pack to the old strips, which is much easier and faster than unsoldering the old strips from the circuit board. My shaver works like new!
David

Posted on Mar 26, 2013

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It's soldered in

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

  • jwwinney Aug 05, 2011

    The batteries are connected by the flat strip and are welded not soldered. There are two proings/strips that are soldered into the circuit board and should present no problem with those experienced in electrical repair or radio/tv work. A small tip and a solder wick will do the job. These are only two AA batteries so you should be able to find a replacement almost anywhere. Make sure one end is welded together and the other end has the stub or two wires. Make sure to observe polarity when soldering the wire or stub back into the board. Oh, do not use acid base solder but use Rosin base for electrical repair. Good luck. JW

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