Are the heatsheild on sparkplug wires attached to sparkplug wireboot or attached to head some how I dont want to mess up wires

Wires, coolant temp sensor, ignition module, coil, restricted exhaust, improper plug gap, cracked head or engine block, burnt valves, broken valve springs, bad fuel, improper fuel pressure, dirty fuel filter, probably many others.

Hi Gary!

If you got a CAR and not a truck, there are a few things you need to pay attention to when replacing spark plugs.

You need to make sure your spark plugs are the issue for whatever the problem is.
Take a 16mm SPARKPLUGS spanner (it's a special sort of tool that you buy in the shop, unless you have it, don't bother to try with anything else, or your could do some damage), unplug one of the cables attached to one of the sparkplugs (make sure you don't unplug more that one, so you won't mess the order), take your magic tool (sparkplug socket spanner or whatever it is called) fit it on top of the sparkplug, (listen for the clicking) and then twist it left until the sparkplug is out.

Have a look to your sparkplug, and see if there is any carbon on it (if it's black, it has to be replaced/sandpapered)

repeat the operation to the other (alledgedly 3) sparkplugs, naking sure you DO NOT MESS UP the order of the cables that connect to the sparkplugs.

If finally you've decided it is time to replace the sparkplugs, under NO circumstances, replace less than ALL of them. (unless you replace them on the car of someone you don't like)

Sounds like possibly a blown head gasket- that would explain the white smoke (usually an indication that coolant is being burned). . Do you mean the exhaust pipes sounded funny like drowning? If coolant is getting into the cylinders and being burned, some will not burn and get pushed in to the exhaust...
Pull the sparkplugs out and check for evidence of water or coolant. A compression test will verify if the head gasket is good or not.
Good luck.

2WD:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-6537.htm

4WD:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-6539.htm

to remove head gasket first take off the valve cover and locate head bolts .make sure one is not broken . then remove timming belt cover and set engine to top dead center by the mark on the crank pulleyengine drive belt will also need to be removed.loosen timming belt tension ,mark belt osision and slide belt from camshaft gear .sometimes its easier to remove the gear.disconect fuel lines ,exuat pipe from manifold ,and sensor wires ,sparkplug wires and any other vacum lines wires ,ect ....that are conected the the cylinder head. before removel disconnect battery and drain cooling system. remove the head bolts ,inside and work to the outside in a circle.may need to pry head from the engine block careful .reinspect to make sure all hoses and wire ,lines are not still attached..always seems to be one thing that will still be attached..after head is removed ,you should be able to see where the gasket is damaged. clean all mating surfaces off engine block and head toinspect for cracks and damage.make it extra clean....razor blade scraper, sand paper ,brakecleaner and lots of shop towels. that is the most important to have clean surface ...install new gasket and reinstall head bolts to the proper tourque specs. parts guy can tell you if you dont know. when the head bolts are tight, this is a good time to drain oil and filter and after repair is finished install new 50/50 coolant. good luck with your repair

Open the hood to access the engine compartment. Locate the sparkplugs sitting to the side of the motor. Six wires run to the motor, three on each side.

Twist the rubber boot and pull away from the sparkplugs. This will expose the sparkplug.

Unbolt the sparkplug with a socket wrench. Use a 5/8-inch deep-well socket attached to the socket wrench.

Pull the sparkplug away from the motor. Discard the sparkplug.

Screw the sparkplug into the motor by hand. Make sure it is hand-tight.

Tighten the sparkplug with the socket wrench, using the deep-well sparkplug socket.

Click the wire to the sparkplug wire to the end of the sparkplug. Gently pull the wire to ensure it clicks into place.

Repeat the procedure for the remaining five sparkplugs. Change each sparkplug one at a time.

With you hood open and you are standing in front of the car sparkplug wires need to be removed,i suggest you remove them one at a time, under each wire the sparkplug is threaded into the cylinder head,using a 5/8 sparkplug socket remove the sparkplug and replace it with new properly gapped sparkplug.Note:if you remove all sparkplug wires at once the factory wires are generally numbered 1 2 3 4 the sparkplug closesed to the passenger fender is #1 and the one clossesed to the driver's fender is #4.Standing in front of vehicle the PCV Valve is located between #3 and #4 on the backside(intake side) of the engine fitted down into a rubber hose

'85's mostly had 4 cylinder engines, 22R, 22RE and 22REI. Remove a sparkplug wire and stick a sparkplug into the end. Hold the sparkplug, preferably with a well insulated glove, against a good metal part (exhaust manifiold will do, no paint or rust) nearby being carefull to stay clear of the fan. Now have someone turn the key and when the engine turns, see if a spark is jumping across the sparkplug your are holding...snap,...snap..snap....is what you should see and hear. If not, your ignition is not creating spark. Remove the center wire of the distributor and try to put the sparkplug on the end of that wire and repeat the previous test. If you get spark that means the distributor cap is not transferring the spark thru it to the wires that go down to your sparkplugs. Remove and replace the distributor cap and the rotor inside paying special attention to mark the wires and where they plug into the cap. The rotor only goes on one way, same with the cap. If you dont get spark coming to the center wire of the distributoe cap your ignitin module may be bad, a good time to have a shop run a test on it. Before heading to the shop, be sure to check your fuses. Maybe you should do that first as it is the simplest. If you have spark at the sparkplug and still no starting, a small amount of gasoline poured into the intake ( please dont pour a cup of gas into it! Just a spoonfull or so). With the sparkplug wires inplace, crank the motor. If it kicks and then goes back to cranking with no results, your fuel isnt getting to the intake. Could be a fuel pump (common) or a plugged fuel filter. The filter is easy, replace it. To test for fuel pressure you will need to locate the fuel line coming to the intake, carburated or injected, the inlet can be loosened and have someone turn the key on and you should see some fuel leaking around the fitting you only loosened. DO NO REMOVE IT-JUST LOOSEN. If you have fuel pressure your problem needs a mechanic. If no fuel pressure it's time to check the fuel pump thru the access panel under the backseat. BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE INLET FUEL FITTING AT THIS POINT. Good luck.
REMEMBER- GASOLINE IS VERY DANGEROUS. DO NOT PERFORM THESE DIAGNOSTICS UNLESS YOU FEEL TRAINED ENOUGH TO DO SO AND ALWAYS WITH AN EXTINGUISHER ON HAND.

you need a spark plug socket usually a 5/8 and a ratchet with an extension (might not need it) you might have to tilt your engine forward to get the back plugs(fwd) remove the boot(connected to top of sparkplug) ONE AT A TIME replace the plug and plug wire if you are replacing the wires RECOMENDED trace them one at a time and replace it, plug it onto the spark plug, then on to the next one, MAKE SURE YOU DONT REMOVE MORE THEN ONE BOOT AT A TIME, OR SPARKPLUG AT A TIME. take it one at a time so you dont mess the firing order up.

It is called a header panel.