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Black wire from the power cord goes onto the wire connection closest to where it comes into the back of the vacuum. There should be a black dot beside the wire connection on the motor. On the other side of the motor, there should be another black dot beside a wire connection and the two white wires will go there. The white wire coming from the lights usually has a double connection and it will go on first and then the white wire from the power cord will go onto the other side of the double connector. The black wire coming from the light usually will go to a wire connector right next to the white wires or just above it . Hope this helps!
Sorry, that will not work. Typically, it is not possible to use one manufacturers transmitter with another manufacturers receiver. The two manufacturers use different tone-key squelch, different noise reduction, and different companding schemes.
You need a multimeter to check this.
The black wire is customarily ground and should go to the pin that measures a dead short to the metallic case of the mike.
The red and blue wires are connected to the secondary of a balanced transformer and can be interchanged with no problem.
You can get a line drawing of the mike connector correctly identified in the user guide and that can be downloaded here:
Shure SM57 manual
The bare copper conductor wire is the screening/common earth to the two signal wires of green and red. The important connection is the copper wire which goes to the jack plug earth which is the section furthest from the tip. The other two are the left and right signal connections. If you get these the wrong way round you will just have to swap them over. Check if they are the right way round by using the balance control on your amplifier or whatever. Have you checked that the problem is not with the headphone amplifier within your equipment? Don't rely on OK sound from loudspeakers as the headphones may be fed from separate op-amp output chip. Try another pair of cheap and cheerful headphones to make sure.
The impedance or resistance of the two different sets of wires might be different. The higher the impedance the less signal. If your cable is long enough you are better off spending the five or so dollars for a new plug. Red is right, green or blue is left and copper is ground.( Usually) Unfortunately not all manufacturers agree. Also what could have happened is a short between the wires that you soldered.Make sure they are physically separated from each other and insulated.
The wire coming from the switch if it has one will go to pin 2 as it is hot(+ve). Pin 3 is cold (-ve) and pin 1 is gound/shield which will make contact when the XLR connector is mounted back in the mike secured with the set screw. There should be a small hole in the side of the base of the mike that the set screw lines up with. Usind the correct size of flat bladed screw driver, back this screw out counter clockwise to secure the connector. If that is wrong, get back to me and i will hunt up my Shure wiring diagrams. If pin 2 and 3 are backwards the mike will be out of phase. Hope this helps.