Question about LG DLE5977 Electric Dryer

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How do I get covers off to replace heater?

Not getting any heat during drying. I ordered a new heater but now I can't figure out how to get the covers off to get to the heater. I sthere any info. out there to show me how to do this?
Thanks in advance!
CJ

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You can search for a manual online. I can not remember which website but they are out there. In a nut shell here is the process. first remove the top by taking out 3 screws on back. Slide top panel back and lift up. Then remove 2 screws from the top corners of the control panel. Pull up and forward on the control panel. Disconnect all the cables. They are color coded so no worrys. remove 4 screws from top of front panel and 2 screws right under the drum behind the door. Lift off front panel. From there you will see the heater on the bottom right. It is easier to get to if you remove the venting and such but you should beable to get it done from here.

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

  • George Feb 13, 2009

    Get the service manual here. It might not be the heater either but the service manual has step by step troubleshooting. I thought mine was the heater and bought one but when I got it opened up and replaced did not correct the problem. More troubleshooting tomorrow.



    http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/DL...

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I have a GE Profile DPVH880EJMG Dryer. It drys but shuts off before clothes are dry. It doesnt matter what sensory cycle it is on or time dry.



i SAY CHECK MOISTER SENSOR, CYCYLING THERMOSTATS? AND HI LIMIT THERMNOSTAT AS WELL AS THERMISTORS IF UR MODEL HAS THEM? UR REPAIR MAN SOUNDS LIKE A SHAM.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:


Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum 9 this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :

http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.

GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
How to Check Dryer Thermistor eHow
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Dec 08, 2016 | GE Dryers

1 Answer

Not heating/drying....I am sure the heating element probably needs to be replaced...which I can do myself if I can get the part and figure out where it is....400series


remove the back and check the heating element inside the heater box and the heater box fuse on the left side top of heater box

May 05, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Electric Dryer Shuts Off


During the auto-drying cycle, the moisture sensor could be the problem.

If it also shuts off prematurely during the timed cycle, the operating thermostat could be turning the heaters off before the machine reaches operating temperature. Another possibility is that the operating thermostat does not turn off the heaters at all. When the machine heats up, it gets too hot and the high limit thermostat turns the dryer off.

Apr 20, 2010 | GE DWSR483EB Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Runs and heats but will not dry


Fist need to know if it is gas or electric dryer, it makes a difference.

If an electric dryer, It is possible that one of the heating elements has failed (burned out), which would still allow the other one to get hot, but not enough to completely dry the clothes during the normal timed or automatic drying cycles.

You can check this with an ohm/amp meter if you are comfortable with working around 220V-AC voltage, etc. You'll need to remove either the rear cover, (if your unit has rear access) or the top of the dryer and then the drum, to gain access to the electric drying elements. This depends on which model you have and how old a dryer it is, etc.

Once you've done that, you can sometimes see a broken drying element, if not, you can check for continuity with the ohm meter (make sure the power cord is unplugged!).

If you are unable to determine with this method, you can restore power and briefly put the dryer into a timed dry cycle (drum and drive belt removed, while you visually check for heating elements turning red/orange as they heat up. Only do that long enough to confirm which element is good, be very careful, as they get extremenly hot. Once you know which one is bad you can order your replacement by model number , etc. Hope that helps.

Jul 13, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Roper brand electric dryer, runs but not heat.


Must be the heating element. Remove the rear dust cover and check the heater for continuity. NOTE: if the heater is good then the small fuse mounted above the heater chamber is blown. Look for a blocked vent if this is the case. Reset the small limit by smacking it on a hard surface till you can get a replacement part. If your heater element is open get a metal **** connector to crimp it back till you can get a replacement part. It is saturday dude, you gotta improvise or get a rope and hang them clothes outside. Hay the dryer still runs so you can fluff them sun dryed beautys up. LOL G'day mate! Good Luck!

Jun 06, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Just quit drying clothes


If it does not dry them all then the element is a good guess or the thermostat.

If it dries them but not all the way check that the moisture sensor is not turned down too far.

The following should help you.

How to Repair Heating Elements A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
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©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.

Servicing the Fan

The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.

Also inspect the fan for a loose screw connection where the motor shaft is set on the dryer's drum. Remove the back service panel, tighten the screw, and replace the panel.

May 09, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I access the heater area. Dryer runs but no heat


I just took mine apart as it is taking longto dry. Can't figure the problem yet, but I had the heater unit out. The heater coils in mine are in a self contained unit which is easily removable through the back. There are a bunch of small socket type screws around the back that allow the cover to be removed, and the heater is held by a bracket at the top with just one screw. (threaded from behind)

Mar 06, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

TCO & HLtherm on Dryer


I think you've got your bases pretty well covered. I don't see a reason for you to replace the hi-limit as well. At less than an ohm, I see no reason to bother with it.

Oct 25, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Put in a new heating element,no hot air


now that you replace the heater you should be able to check the thermal fuse and possibly the high limit thermostat. both mounted right by the heater assy, if open(no continuity) on either of them yo will get no heat. also first check your incoming power. you MUST have installed on rear into the terminal block and-in this order(black and red can be switched but white MUST be in middle. RED(110v), WHITE(nuetral), BLACK(110v). black to white 110v, red to white 110v, and then black to red should measure at least 220,

Mar 11, 2008 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Roper household dryer not heating


you can unhook themal cut out or themostates hook the two wires together tape or make sure they dont touch anything and test dryer.. if heat comes on thats the problem

Sep 15, 2007 | Dryers

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