I have a 300 watt jl mono block amp and it wont turn on. i had to wire the remote wire to the audio fuse in the fuse box cuz i have a stock head unit and i know i have power coming to the amp cuz the power wire and ground wire spark when touched. the amp just came out of my friends car and it was working when we pulled it out. any input on what the problem might be

The remote wire DOES need to be connected to the head unit. You can see if thats the problem simply by touching the remote wire to the power wire. The unit should come on. The head unit should either have a remote lead, or a power antenna lead, and thats what you need to turn the amp on and off. BE SURE your ground is solid, and its usually best to take that to the battery as well to prevent unwanted engine noise. Hope this helps!

check the ground and your remote wires

1) Check the Subwoofer for continuity - At the subwoofer, one at a time, test the terminals for Continuity using your Digital Multi-Meter; if your DMM doesn't have a Continuity test, use the Resistance, or Ohms, test and check for Resistance in the Subwoofer Coil (be sure to disconnect the subwoofer wiring before performing these tests).
2) If they test out good, hook the wires back up and test the terminals at the terminal cup or at the Amp hookup if you didn’t use a terminal, don't hook it up to the amp yet. Sometimes the wiring inside the box can be a problem if it has come loose, or isn't making a great connection.
3) If you have a Sub or multiple Subs with Dual Voice Coils, or multiple Subs with Single Voice Coils, make sure your wiring is correct by checking here:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp
4) Make sure there are no Hi-Pass filters, crossovers, or multi Channel switches enabled.
5) Replace your RCA cable/s with known working RCA cable/s from the Source/Head Unit to the Amplifier/s.
6) Check your Head Unit settings; make sure the Bass is turned up and/or the Subwoofer setting is turned On.
7) If you are still getting no or low output, try plugging in an MP3 player or CD player using a headphone to RCA adaptor and check for sound output. If there is still no or low output, your Amplifier outputs are probably burned out.


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

depending on how many channels the amp is, you may not be able to hook everything up to it.

usually you have a separate amp for subs. 4 channel amp for the speakers in the car, and a mono amp for the subs.

To hook them all up to the same amp you would need an amp with 5 channels. It wouldn't work out right.

If you have a mono amp its only for subs.

If you have a 2 channel you can either hook it up to the rear speakers or bridge them to mono to run the subs.


you need a channel per speaker basically.

Blue wire is the Remote power switch. Supply this wire with posive power and it turns the amp on. Its only a "Switch" not the main power feed. There is usual a blue amp remote wire on the back of most aftermarket head units.

well i don't know your budget, but if that's not really and issue, right now at best buy, alpine type E, 10" subs, peak is 750w and rms is 250w, each is 129.99. Alpine type R, 10" subs, peak is 1500w and rms is 500w, each is 199.99. These are the best subs i found at best buy. You could sell your current subwoofers and purchase those, and you'd save space and still get the lows you want. Goodluck

your subwoofer is wired incorrectly to your amplifier. Figure out which ohm load of subs you have and then what ohm load options your amp is stable at. Next go to either the Crutchfield website. find their learning center. go to subwoofer wiring diagrams. or go to www.the12volt.com and find their section on it

This one Wire should be for the +. Try connecting the + to the Head Unit and - to a Common Ground. At the Worst, You will Blow the Amp Fuse if not Correct. The Lead from the Head Unit is Only an Off and On from the Ignition. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

Check your fuse at the battery. While AGU glass fuses "look" good, when you read the voltage AFTER the fuse, you can only be getting 5 volts or so. I can't tell you how many times I have seen this.

Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

Make sure that you don't have any strands that would connect the remote lead to the constant +12 volts. Also make sure that your remote lead fromt the radio switches off when you shut the car off. If you don't have an aftermarket radio with a remote turn-on lead, tap into the ignition wire to the radio. Let me know what kind of car you have and I can point you in the right direction to get the right wire. Good luck.
-Andrew Hawkins