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Have a teledyne laars lite LLD pool heater and was told that I needed a new ignition control unit. Replacement called for a digital ignition control unit (#RO317500) to use in replacement for model 05-339011-003 that was originally on my analog heater. Paperwork included did not give info on exactly how to wire it to the unit - there is a IND connection and a diagnostic area on the unit that was not on my original control unit. Anyone out there that knows what to do to connect it correctly? I'm particularly puzzled by how to attach the thermostat start control switch to the ignition unit. I'd appreciate any help possible..!

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SOURCE: I tried to replace my

Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. This is all for a heat pump, If you do not have a heat pump, then disregard the references to "O", "B", "E", and "aux". You will have R-power on red wire, W-heat signal to furnace, G-fan signal to furnace, and "Y" cool signal to outdoor unit.

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

SOURCE: Remote Thermostat Control hookup for AZ28E15DABM1

I called out an electrician and he wired it for me. Even told me they sold me one not designed for my model, but he retrofited it and it works fine. Been about a year now.

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: I have Bryant HRV and the motor has failed.

Wire nut and tape the blue and red wires they are not used.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: replacing old thermostat with new digital

Wire nut or tape the black off. The red is normally 24volt supply power to the t-stat. Blue may or may not be the common. Have a voltmeter?

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Trane XE1200

OK, locate the terminals on the capacitor marked "HERM"(Compressor lead), "FAN", and "COM".(common)

HERM and COM remian as they are.

The wire going to "FAN" (usually brown) will be placed on either terminal of the new capacitor. (This is the ((usually brown)) wire comming off of the fan motor.) An additional wire needs to be run from the other terminal of the new capacitor to the "COM" on the old capacior.

What you are doing is bypassing the fan side of the old capacitor but still using the compressor side of the old Cap.

The fan should have a wiring diagram on it to help identify the wires if there is no brown wire. The other two wires will be identified on the wiring diagram as well, but one typically goes to the contactor and the other to the board.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: A/C does not cool like it used to, unit runs

Hi, heat-pumps are more complicated then a regular a/c to wire the thermostat. If your heat pump has a heat strip package installed, it takes more stat wires to operate it. Plus you have the reversing valve to switch over from heat to cool, so you need a wire for that. In a normal heat pump set up, 8 conductors are used to wire the stat, even though you may not use them all. The O terminal is for the reversing valve. It should be orange for this unit as cooling, the reversing valve is energized in that mode. The only unit that is made today that is backward from this is the Rheem and Ruud units as they are energized in the heat position on the B terminal. Are you sure you have put on a heat-pump thermostat? You should have terminals like this, R, O, B, W-1, W-2, G, Y, W, C. On a gas fired heat and cool unit, it will be 5 wires, RC, RH,G,Y, and W. The Red wire will be connected to either on of the R terminals as they will have a jumper to connect the 2 wires. I have never seen a gray wire in a thermostat cable? I would go to the indoor and outdoor units to see where this gray wire is connected to on the board. Y is for cooling, yellow. R to RC is right. G, green is for fan, W is for 1st stage heat, O should be to the reversing valve at the outdoor unit to change it over from heat to cool and orange in color. You may have it wired so that your heat strips are energized the same time the cooling is and they both are on! I have seen this many times and this would explain the high bills and low cooling. Check your stat Jim to make sure you have the right one. You should also have a emergency heat switch on it, and auxillary heat. The problem is in the stat. When it is on, go to the indoor unit to feel the duct to see if it is warm from the heat strips being on. If so, you can disconnect them until you get the right stat to run this unit right. Keep me posted.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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