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Re: Tube radio tuning thread slipping
The dial cord may will likely need replacement, good luck finding anyone who can do it. There are some chemicals ("non-slip" from GC) that might be applied to the cord at the dial or at the tuning capacitor, but I would recommend that this be done by a tech.
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step 1) There is a possibility that your fill tube inside the freezer is filled up and frozen, causing a back pressure to push the fill tube out. If the fill tube is NOT frozen then proceed as follows: step 2) First try to tighten the fittings a couple of turns, if that does not hold the tube in - pull by hand then proceed to step 3) Replace with new fitting and compression ring.
That is a discontinued model.
Check which way it is losing tuning. If from the machine heads, very unusual, try an extra turn on the tuning bar. If the string is slipping at the bridge end, check the fitting of the strings.
If you make a mark with a felt tip pen on the 12th fret position on the string, see which way it moves.
Hello, I know that seems like the incorrect part but it replaces the water valve that had 2 outlet hoses connected to it. To replace that; Turn off house water supply to old valve and disconnect tubing remove old valve and unplug the 2 wire connections and the 2 outlet hoses The two outlet hoses were what was considered a Y hose..cut off semi clear plastic tubing a inch back where the 2 semi clear plastic tubes merge and become only 1 pull one of the plastic nuts off of the Y tube slip it onto the end of the newly cut single tube slip single tube into outlet threaded outlet of new valve and tighten that plastic nut connect the 2 wire plugs onto new valve remount to back of refrig attatch house water supply to metal fitting that has/had protective rubber cap over it (oh of course remove procetive rubber cap and discard it) turn water supply back on it may up to 4 hrs for water to flow to icemaker so best to test by dispensing water through freezer door
Good luck,any questions or problems please reply and i'll help you, Gene
most objectives and eyepieces are interchangeable between models of microscropes. There are however a few things that you need to be aware of. On the out side of the objective there are number written on them that look similiar to this:
There maybe more writing then that, but usually at the very least you get this. The first part (100x) is the objective magnification, the 1.25 is the Numerical aperture, the 160 is the tube length (in mm), and the .17 is the cover-slip correctness. What you are most concerned with is the mechanical tube length. There are 3 common ones, 160, 210, and infinity. It is very important that you get an objective with the right tube mechanical tube length, or there is a very good chance it won't work. If you are working with slides, then it is a good idea to get one that is cover slip corrected, otherwise most of the other information is only real important to very specific applications.The other key variable is the threading. Most microscopes use what is call a standard RMS threading, however many educational or high end objectives will not have this.
The eyepieces are pretty straight forward. You just need to find one that that has an outside diameter of the sleeve that will fit the inside diameter of the tube it is going into. Beyond that, most eyepieces are pretty interchangeable amongst brands.
Yes, the Breadman TR845 uses a belt to connect the knead paddle to the motor. I had a problem with my Breadman so I took it apart. It turned out for me that the belt was fine but it had slipped off the plastic gear. The belt was still around the shaft of the motor so it could only turn if the bread pan was empty. The belt is a timing belt with integral teeth. I needed a small space washer that would keep the black plastic gear from slipping on the shaft and allowing the belt to slip off the gear. There is a lip only on one side of the plastic gear so if it moves the belt can slip off. I created a spacer washer from the cap on a tube of toothpaste. I cut the cap in half and had to use a metal file to get it the right size. I needed it to be 1/4 tall and 3/4 inch in diameter. I cut the spacer so that I could slip it over the shaft of the motor. The spacer keeps the black plastic gear from sliding and it keeps the belt from slipping off the gear. After putting it all back together everything works fine. And the toothpaste tube was almost empty anyway.
P.S. There are losts of screws that hold it together and the belt and gears are at the bottom of the Breadman and you have to take the whole thing apart to get to the bottom. I was able to leave all the wires attached so that putting it back together went quickly compared to the work of taking it apart.
the ring is called a "crush" bushing it seals by: (crushing) reducing it's diameter around the supply tube; it can be used only one time as it deforms to seal. each time you remove cut the tube with the old ring off ;put the threaded valve cap with the hole in it (for the tube) threaded side facing the valve on the cut tube; then slip a new ring on the tube and, screw the cap on the valve
if the gear is slipping we need to know how it is helld on the shaft. Look between the teeth on the gear to see if there is a set screw. If so, using the proper tool, loosen it and try to remove the gear. Then, go to a auto parts store and buy a small tube of loc-tite thread lock, put some on the shaft and slip the gear back on, then tighten the set screw firmly. The loctite will set up in an hour and fully dry in about 3 hours. Good luck and keep me informed please.
Try immersing the tube in super hot water. The plastic might expand just enough to let you slip out the blade. Since the tube is dishwasher safe, there should be no harm. A little soap in the water might help it slip out.