Question about Dryers
MY DOOR ON THE DRYER WAS LEFT OPEN BY ACCIDENT FOR ABOUT A WEEK. WHEN I CAME TO USE IT, THE LIGHT WAS NOT ON INSIDE, YET THE BULB IS GOOD, AND THE DRYER WILL NOT START. WHAT WOULD CAUSE THIS???
Check spring tab behind door switch-if it's bent/out of adjustment, circuit will act like door is always open.
To confirm this, open door, set dryer to active setting, and hold in door switch; if it comes on, then it's either the spring tab, or the switch is malfunctioning
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
Probably the rear bearing has failed and caused the drum to rub against the heating element. Hey, is this the guy that said he heard a noise last month? LOL
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
Same thing as other owners above...Dryer is five years old and is in need of a good cleaning of lint build-up. Model no. PYET444AZW.
I put a large load of clothes, which probably should have been spun again, into the dryer. When I returned the clothes were still basically wet, and the light in the dryer would not come on, and nor would the dryer start.
Tested the circuit breaker. OK. Tested the outlet with a tester pen. OK.
So in searching the internet for a solution, I found and read this string. Found the fuse, called my local appliance parts store and bought a thermal fuse kit for CDN$48 (incl sales tax). Kit came with three fuses.
Just opening the top of the dryer was a chore for a complete novice. However, the entire top is hinged at the back -- so at the front of the machine, just gently poked a slot screwdriver in the gap ringing the sides near the top, twist screwdriver and lift. Big fuse is easily accessible at the top near the back of the drum. It's a round thing about the size of a quarter screwed into a metal frame with two crimped-on wires coming out the top. One screw to removed the frame. Then detached the crimped-on wires, and removed the fuse from the frame with two more screws. You will need a smaller size ratchet or nut-driver.
While you have it apart you might as well change the second nickel-size fuse, too, although it is more of a pain.
You have to remove the coiled elements, which are basically just big springs. They come out with one screw on the right and a little finesse. The second fuse sits on the right-hand side of the metal box surrounding the coiled element. The screw for the coil also held the frame for the fuse in place, but the frame will still be secured to the box with a couple of small tongues. So you will still need to kind of lift and pull up on the frame housing the fuse. It requires some patience and finesse. Remove the crimped-on wires, and change the fuse.
Of the two smaller replacement fuses that came with the kit, there was one marked for a gas dryer and another for electric. (The big fuse was good for both.)
Then start putting it all back together. Took me two hours in all. But now that I have done it once, it would hopefully take me only 30 mins. now.
Finally, my replacement instructions suggested cleaning out your machine and removing the lint and other burdens which probably overloaded the fuse in the first place. So I bought one of those specialized lint brushes to clean out the trap and the exhaust hose and vent.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 06, 2015 | Frigidaire Dryers
Jul 28, 2014 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer
Sep 21, 2011 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer
Oct 14, 2010 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer
Jul 30, 2010 | Dryers
Jun 06, 2010 | Frigidaire FEQ1442ES Electric Dryer
Mar 22, 2009 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer
Feb 17, 2009 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer
Oct 26, 2008 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer
Dec 09, 2016 | Maytag Dryers
114 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!