I bought a used stove and just plugged it in. The back burner has something on it ... don't know what. It first didn't seem to heat as well as the other side so after getting everything in place, I turned on the burner to see if it would heat up all the way and after about 1 or 2 min. it popped and cracked. I need a replacement top and need to know if it can be installed without a serviceman being called. Also, where do I find one on the inexpensive side?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:
ApplianceZone.com Items 1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67 Sub-Total: $170.67 Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62
Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code! First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck
the glass in the ovens should not crack when self clean is used. it could be that there was a minut crack in the glass or a build up of moisture in between to door windows that expanded at the extra heat but this should be brought up with the manufacturer for replacement.
If you are referring to the bakelight material, this is an insulating compound and the burner still may work. I would not use this long term in this manner however. This material insulates as well as helping maintain an even heat transfer of the burner. Long term use, may cause damage to the cooktop. The burners are replaceable, but the prices vary depending on the size of the burner. The part numbers are as follows:
Unfortunately no your ceramic glass top cannot be repaired and will have to be replaced. as for the burners as long at the metal heating part of it isn`t damaged and its just the outer white coloured insulation that is cracked or chipped this is okay and still operate normally.hope this helps
This stove uses a special switch that turns one way for the large burner and the other way for the smaller burner. I was not aware that this had a seperate simmer burner on it, however. I think you using the wrong term there.
This is not computer controlled--the only computer on it should be the oven switch. I would assume that you need to replace the switch for the dual-size burner. If you take your model number in to Sears, or log onto Sears dot com, you should be able to get to the PARTS DIRECT web site on the computer, and if they ever sold that model you should be able to pull up a parts breakdown with expanded drawing and part numbers and prices. You should be able to buy the part from them. The part should be virtually the same as ANY recent model Frigidaire or Kenmore stove with the same style burner. This should be a very easy repair for you to make yourself, assuming that you know a little about working with electricity--remember, this stove USES 220 VOLTS!
Check out all of the wiring coming into the switch and going from the switch to the burner to be sure that there is not a short!
If you have one of the older smooth surface stoves, where the burners are part of the ceramic top, all bets are off, but anything you bought new in the last half-dozen years, should have a separate burner underneath a glass top, and the repair should be simple. Even with the older stove, it is still likely the switch, and should be no problem.
My initial attempt at solving the problem was to contact the GE customer service phone line. When I explained the problem, the representative had no clue how to solve it, and referred me to the service organization. The representative at the service organization was equally clueless, and suggested scheduling a service call at $100 plus parts and labor.
This is all quite disappointing; these customer and service representatives obviously have no training in solving the simplest of problems. This is okay if GE's goal is to maximize service revenue. But, I can tell you I would be very unhappy to have a technician visit my house, for $100, only to be told I was using a pot or a pan that was designed incorrectly for a glass cook top.
I solved the problem by going to the web site www.geappliances.com, opening the user manual, and looking under trouble shooting. The first problem mentioned is exactly as described above. The problem is inappropriate cooking appliances. It is not possible to transfer heat efficiently if the pot you're using has a rim or lip on the bottom. That is, the pot must sit flat on the glass cook-top, it cannot be raised off the cooking surface by a lip that elevated the pot from the surface. These pots are designed to be used with gas flames, not a glass cook top.
You can buy replacement tops for your range. Check with your manufacturer for local parts distributors or service locations and they should be able to find you one. There is also online part stores that sell them like http://www.partadvantage.com/store anywhere from 150-400$