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I have a maytag dishwasher

By sedonuts on Aug 22, 2008

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I have a maytag dishwasher model MDB9750AWB and the control panels will not work

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Same Problem

Mar 09, 2009

- on my maytag the auto clean cycle and the extra rinse and heated dry lights are all flashing and you cannot change the settings i also cannot cancel the cycle with the start cancel button on friont - ryandraganac

This Problem Also Relates To: GE 24 in. Profile PDW9280JSS Built-in Dishwasher GE 24 in. GLD5560LSS Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher GE Profile PDW8600J Built-in Dishwasher GE 24 in. Profile PDW8280JSS Built-in Dishwasher Bosch SHV46C03 Built-in Dishwasher Bosch 18 in. SRS56L08 Logixx Slim-Line Built-in Dishwasher Bosch 18 in. SRV43A23 Slim-Line Built-in Dishwasher

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I have a GE Triton Dishawasher that is several years old that is having cleaning isues. Mostly the... (More) I have a GE Triton Dishawasher that is several years old that is having cleaning isues. Mostly the top rack dishes are the ones with food particles and an oily film. My eleven year old and nine year old sons load and unload the dishwasher as part of their daily chores and the chore is not always done as it shoud be. In the main sump seperation screen area I found a fiber like scum clogging the screenthat seperates the main pump ( for washing) and the evacuation pump. I pulled these out and cleaned them and decided to make sure the impeller and pump shaft was free. I discovered a rubber band behind the impeller and removed it. After reassembly, on the pots and pans cycle the middle wash arm seemed to be spinning and the first severl loads seemed to be better. I should mention that the water level according to the literature I have is to be between 1/8" and 1" high, and it is. I also checked the was arms to make sure there was no debris clogging the directional ports, I've had this happen before with popcorn seeds. At this point I figured I missed somthing that would cause a starving of the pump or that I was loosing pressure from the pump. I pulled the screens out again and they were fairly clean, I used a flashlight a dental pick and some yoga moves and found hair, easter grass and god only knows what else it was wrapped up behind the impeller shaft. Yoga wasn't working so I removed the two boot clamps, the motor harness and grounding wire with screw as well as the motor hanger bracket. I then removed the impeller, the reverse thread corse screen behind the impeller and cleaned the main pump impeller. None of these were clogged but there was debris wrapped around the shaft and in the pump veins. I then reassembled everything and ran the F1 test cycle. I positioned the upper, middle and lower wash arms diagonally so I could check for movement and there was barely any! At this point I put on my raincoat, using a screwdriver I tricked the door switch and started the washer back up in mid cycle. As I suspected the lower wash arm was barely spinning, the middle one didn't spin at all, and I believe the top one was spinning. QUESTION? Could the pump be worn enough allowing for the water in it to just cavitate? Or is is possible that the motor isn't spinning as fast as it once did? Or is there not enough back pressure or resistance to spin the wash arms. My thoughts at this point are to replace the center spigot and lower wash arm assembly and or the the pump body or impeller. I appears that there is a good volume of water but it is hard to judge. As I recall it, from days gone by, when the washer was opened in mid cycle to add a dish the wash arms were visibly spinning. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Scott in IA

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