Hi my c350 does not seem to power up at all.
I have checked the fuses just behind the big round transformer, they seem fine.
My new NAD C 325BEE has stopped powering up. I push power on button on the remote and the lid blinks with red but stays abmer not turning into green. I can rotate the volume button using remote but leds above source indicators are not lit. If I try to turn them directly bu pushing the button on the amplifier, nothing happens: power led stays amber, no sound.
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Re: Nad c350 no power at all
Check your output stage for bad speakers cable or bare wire of cable touch the body of amp----short circuit speaker cable----bad speaker it self------ bad input cable or defective input device . disconnect all and check if it is ok---start to connect one by one from input to outputs------if all above failed you must contact service center for help.
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Hi, There are fuse inside Nad M15. If you open the top cove then you can see there are 9 fuses lined up i the circuit board on the right side of the transformer. Check these fuses. Also check is there is any fuse behind the Power one of switch. If it is faulty the replace the same.
Before connecting the power after replacing the fuse. check the working voltage marking at the back side. Is it 120v or 220v. If its 120V then be sure that you are using 120V AC line.
If any fuse blows of when you connect the power then you have to consult any nearest service station.
The Voltage rating and Amps rating of the fuse can find marked up on the two metal strips at the two ends. My be laser mark or punching.
Check the link bellow to see the fuses Check the 12th picture on the link. NAD M15
Have you checked the rectifier diodes / bridge rectifier . Most DMMs have setting where you can test for forward voltage drop on a diode 0.300- 0.800v depending on the type. If it reads nothing , swap the meter leads. Also check the leads coming from the power transformer and see if there's continuity. THey will read low value ohms
Solution if all fuses checked out OK and +/-40V are present on main PCB DC connector from power supply: Check
for +37V and -37V on small sub-power supply PCB - mounted vertically on
the main power supply PCB. (next to ribbon cable connector is a layout
with voltages.) If the +/-37V are missing check (replace) C501 (0.1uF)
on the small power supply PCB for leakage, but also check (replace)
R401 (2R2) and R402 (2R2) on the main power supply PCB. Both resistors
are fuse-resistors and will have gone open circuit when C501 has gone
Take a ohm meter and measure resistance from emiter to collector should have a few kilo ohm on output transistor.
If no ohm meter available , remove output transistors from circuit.
note position of transistor . you have a NPN and a PNP for each channel.
Replace fuse and power up. If fuse blows check bridge in the power supply.
80% of the time output transistor burn and blow the fuse.
before replacing output transistors check driver transistors they probably burnt also
Coincidentally enough, I have a customer's C541i on my bench right now!
At this point, you will need to open the cover and check the fuses. With the cover off, looking from the front, all four fuses are in the back left corner of the player, next to the toroidal (round) power transformer. If any of them have blown, replace that fuse with exactly its type and rating. DO NOT jumper over the fuse, or wrap foil around it. It is EXTREMELY rare for a CD player to blow a fuse unless there is a very serious failure someplace.
If the player blows the new fuse/fuses immediately it will need to be serviced. If the fuses hold, and the player plays, it was just one of those random things.
Now, IF all the fuses are good when you first check it, you have a mechanical failure in the power switch, or a broken solder joint on the board where it's attached. Luckily, a replacement switch is easy to find.
I have noticed that this nad c3xx series may have a general problem with the input switching chip. There are more post here on fixya where people have similar problems as you have.
For a few year ago, I repaired a fault that had close to the same symptoms, it was a cambridge azur xxx amplifier, in this cambridge it was a defect smd component that they used as a input multiplexer.
I look forward to repair this fault in the future. Nowadays i alway collect schematics and create repair e-books and/or repair movie guides in the fault finding process.