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We have a Dometic Frige RM 3840 ( 3-way) it works fine on AC and DC but fails to ignite on LP ( even though the pilot light is ON ) we can hear the numerous clicking but it fails to work....the LP tank is full. Thanks for your assistance

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Make sure the gas valve is open on gas line by the burn chamber. You can try manually lighting when it trys when you here it clicking. If it lights the thermo couple needs to be replaced. If it does not your gas valve could be bad but before you replace make sure your gas pressure is proper at the gas valve. This would need to be done by a tech unless you have a manometer Good luck

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • Ken Bellringer Sep 08, 2008

    I for got to make sure your calling for gas on the inside control. If it is on automatic it will call for electric first if it is present

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if other LP devices run ok check lines to ignitor for cobwebs

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RM 2652 check light comes on anywhere between 1 minute and 5 hours after startup. Does same thing on auto or gas. If I restart it does same thing. I never know how long it will work. Please help.


According to the service tip manual if your check light is on then it will be one of these:


DC Volts

Wiring

LP Gas

Manual Gas Valve

Solenoid

Orifice

Burner

Thermocouple
Lower circuit Board

Since it does it on both AC and gas, you can toss out the LP Gas, Manual Gas Valve, Orifice and Burner.

Make sure that you have good DC voltage and tight connection to your refrigerator.

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1 Answer

Will not run only on gas but will not cool


If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC


If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

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1 Answer

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Hi Tom,

If your fridge quit working altogether, check your DC fuses in the fuse box, as well as the back of the fridge under the black plastic cover (3 amp). Though the fridge uses LP and 120vac to cool, it is controlled by 12 volts.

Apr 30, 2010 | Dometic RM2620 Refrigerator

1 Answer

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Check the 5 amp buss fuse behind the frig.

Apr 04, 2010 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

2 Answers

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Most likely cause is a blocked gas jet in the main burner its rare for the thermostat to be faulty but you cant dismiss it

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This happens when your electrode fails. Replace your electrode.

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