We have a lte6234dqz and when we moved it by laying it down we found a clevis pin. Can you tell me where it came from?

find it on shifter proubly under the automatic clevis take the knut off the shifter crank clevis remove the cranks take the 2 switch bolts off the switch pull it up and off spray with pb blaster move the switch back and forth get the pb blaster into the switch body and work it back and forth try putting it on after this and adjusting it is it starting now? if not take it of use a big screwdriver to turn it while someone holds key to start position if it starts starting then you have found the sweet spot lol" you may use the car with the switch off and turned to this spot until a new switch can be purchased

I can't say I know the answer, but the service manual for this unit should tell you. The only place you will probably find one is at your local library. They have subscriptions to most online service manuals, they are free but only accessible at the branch, a call to your local branch should get you access to the one you need. If its not close enough, try a Subaru owners forum online they may have the answer as well.

Remove clevis pin retainer clip or cotter pin and pull it out.

You'll need to access back side of sink bowl and locate drain mechanism, most likely either the plunger rod has loosened up from clevis rod or clevis rod is positioned to far in towards drain line causing it to bind. Check diagram for assistance in locating parts.
Is the plunger rod tight or loose? You can also loosen clevis screw and see if the plunger rod will slide freely. If it does try moving the horizontal pivot rod up and down, while doing this you should she your drain plunger moving up and down. If it does not then most likely will need to replace plunger mechanism by removing the retaining nut on the back side of the drain line. This will allow you to disassemble the actual drain plunger but I would definitely start with the mechanism of the stopper and clevis where it attaches to horizontal rod.
Sounds like a simple binding. Always be sure there isn't anything stored under your sink which could be causing the problem. Sometimes the most obvious is the last thing we look at.
Good luck.

If I'm thinking about the right thing, the clevis that is attached to the rear brake lever that the rod that goes to the rear brake master cylinder connects to, the clevis should have a pin connecting it to the rear brake lever. On the backside of the pin is either a cotter pin or a circlip holding the pin in. You may have to take the rear brake lever off to access the circlip or cotter pin.

Good Luck
Steve

ya you have to do that properly. Get the blow up diagram. but usually there are clevis pins that must be removed. I have a 11Hp Craftsman rear tine. Those tines are removed easy with clevis pins.

you have a 580 ck backhoe and a red box so I am not as to what the red box is referring to . As far as the case backhoe I believe the 580 ck is a hydromagnit and is a 1985 to 88 vintage there are two linkages on one side to do quick turns you can stop a wheel and turn that direction while turning the steering wheel to the same direction but this is a brake adjustment the two pedals on lets say passenger side for clarity or left side looking from the from has two pedals the one on the far right is the pedal for right side and the one on the left side is for the left brake, on the oppsite side of the machine you have a foot pedal that disengages the transmission by pushing down on the pedal and there are adjustments to that pedal as well you can shorten the Travel of the pedal by loosening the locking nut and then turning the clevis's after you have removed the cotter pin and the clevis pin then you can shorten or lengthen it's travel to change it. From off the top of my head I believe the most common problem with these backhoes was the clevis pin rod would get bent or the clevis pin would wear out and cause slipping from the transmission, but it is not a clutch per Se it is an actuating rod that engages the tork converter There is also a valve on the back of the transmission that is electrically engaged that comes loose that would cause it to slip. so after checking that the clevis pin rod is straight then check that the differential has oil in it and also the transmission has oil in it if either are low in oil it can cause it to slip so check that too. there is the possibility that the forward and reverse handle may be out of adjustment and or worn causing it not to work but you will have to go step by step, check fluid levels also have you changed the transmission oil filter? this can cause it to slip as well. good luck finding out your problem check the top transmission oil level too if you have not done so as this could cause you problems as well. if you need any more information just post to this answer and I will try to help you as much as I can but your better off buying a book on it to figure your problem out if your don't know anything about this tractor.

1) Traction drive belt slipping or worn
a) idler pulley not fully engaging
b) cable/lever adjustment
c) spring missing or broken

2) Friction drive disc slipping or worn
a) rust on hexagon shaft not allowing friction disc to move
b) missing or broken engagement spring

3) clevis pins missing or broken on wheels

4) roll pin on drive shaft missing or broken
inside the cover for the gearing mechanisms, chain drives, gears ect.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

First you have to get to the split pin that holds the clevis pin, this then slides out and the pedal will be loose, under the bonnet the cylinder is the right hand one when you are looking at the engine, undo the steel pipe and the 2 nuts holding it down, pull it up and out.

There is a pin that has come out of it's holf from the right side of the deck. Have someone raise the deck up and down and you should see a bracket or rod moving up and down. This attaches to the deck with a clevis pin to hold it in place.
HTH
Good Day.