Question about Saeco Incanto Classic Espresso Machine

1 Answer

Algae in water tank?

A black plastic or rubber piece on the lower left end of the tank that appears to the part that lets the machine know the water tank is empty has algae or something dark around and inside of it. When I inspect the water, I often see some tiny particles floating around, which I suspect came from this area. Is this a defect? I can't seem to detach the black piece, or clean out the substance. Thank you. The machine is a Saeco Incanto Deluxe. Thank you.

Posted by on

  • FredFreddie Feb 12, 2009

    I have the same "stuff" growing in the float tube. I tried to remove the cap, but it is fastened pretty securely and I don't want to break it. The float only floats for a few seconds then sinks causing the FILL WATERTANK message to show. How do I repair this problem? Thanks.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 515 Answers

Hi,

Try to clean it with soap, if you are careful you can bend in the edge and take it off.

Use some glue on it when you put it back.
/Mirran

Posted on Aug 22, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Water appearing on the bottom


More than likely you have a clogged drain. This occurs when the machine goes into defrost and the melted ice somehow is prevented from draining and therefor refreezing and blocking the drain for the next defrost cycle. The best way to resolve this is to unplug the machine for atleast 24-48 hours to let all ice melt. Also note on the maytags these days they put a rubber piece called a duck bill on the bottom half of the drain which will also cause this over time. To access this piece you'll have to pull the machine from the wall and remove the lower panel and find the plastic drain and remove the duck bill

Apr 09, 2012 | Woods Upright Freezer MU07W

Tip

Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

on Feb 24, 2011 | Samsung CLX-6200FX Printer

4 Answers

I have a two year old Bosch Ecologixx 7 Tumble Dryer (WTW84560GB/02) whose condensation compartment full indicator is being activated increasingly early, to the point where I am needing to empty the...


I had exactly the same problem and got it fixed by the Bosch repair service today.
The culprit is that in certain areas there may be algae in the air that thrive to grow in the main water reservoir and clog up the water pump that fills the condensation compartment.
(note: There are two water tanks in the Ecologixx 7 - one user serviceable condenser tank up top and the non-user serviceable main water reservoir sealed inside the machine)
This is main water reservoir is located sealed under the water pump under the tumble dryer drum.
Dismantling instructions: 1. remove the top of the tumble dryer first (two screws at the back 2. remove the right side panel with another few screws (looking from the front) 3. disengage the multi-tooth elastic band by twisting the spring loaded roller at the bottom).
After this you have access to the water pump and the Styrofoam float that triggers the empty condenser tank warning.
If the pump is entirely clogged you might need to replace it and the float.
Then clean the bottom water reservoir from the algae infested water with a pump+hose and a bottle washing brush and circulate clean water through the machine (re-engage the elastic band before running the engine) with the Warm-program.
To kill the algae you need to run about 250ml of clear raw vinegar through the pump system by running the machine in the Warm program for 10min and then rinse the excess vinegar out by putting about half a condenser tank of warm water into the machine and running the Warm-programme for 30min. (this will release the clean water into the condenser unit for the self-cleaning function and then pump it back up into the condenser water tank and dilute and circulate the raw vinegar out of the machine).
You should also do a vinegar sanitization run before all extended periods of disuse of the machine by pouring 250ml of vinegar into the large round hole under the top condenser tank (this is where the condensed water is poured for the self-cleaning run).
Run the Warm-program without the condenser tank in place until you can verify visually that the pump is circulating the vinegar through the hose in the top left back corner of the condenser tank opening (there is a overflow drain at the back so everything coming up goes promptly back down into the main reservoir (small hole in the back corner bottom).
Then place the condenser water tank half full with hot water (not boiling) and let the Warm-programme run for 30min to dilute and circulate the vinegar-water solution out of the machine back into the condenser reservoir.

Feb 05, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I was cleaning the water tank and i accidently knocked out the spring, tiny black plastic stopper and the white rubber washer, please could you help me put it all back together again, hopefully this can be...


Hi!

I've got the same problem and I managed to solve it.
So you have to put the plastic stopper to the buttom of the water tank in way that the wider end is down. You must hang the spring on the plastic stoppers narrow end so it would be placed between the water tanks bottom and the plastic stopper. Then you have to place the rubber washer from inside the water tank on the plastic stoppers narrow end. So would look like the following: plastic stopper -> spring -> water tank -> rubber washer

Jul 08, 2010 | Gaggia Caffitaly K111 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

"OE" error message appearing at end of rinse cycle before spin


on the front lower left there is a panel. Pry it open from the top. Unscrew the large black round cap. Be prepared for water to rush out. There is a trap to clean out. To the left there is a rubber hose with a plug in the end. Remove plug and see if hose is clogged. Clean it out. Replace and it should run. If not, try blowing through the discharge hose in the back to make sure all is clear. If not??

Mar 10, 2010 | LG TROMM WM2688H 4.0 cu.ft. Front Loading...

1 Answer

Water pooling on unit outside of window


Hi,
There will be a drain at the lower end of the unit, this should be connected to suitable piping and taken outside. Condensate drain soakaways are available if no suitable drain is available for it to discharge into. Try to use rigid plastic piping where possible.

Sep 08, 2009 | Haier Mechanical Air Conditioner HWF05XC7

1 Answer

I used my new proheat 2x steam cleaner the first


You may have mislaid a piece when you took your Bissell apart to clean it after using it the first time.

I experimented with mine to try and reproduce your issue. On the bottom of the water tank, there are two pieces that can be removed from it. One of them looks like a black plug at one end, with a red rubber flange piece on the other end. If you push your finger inside the red rubber piece, you can feel a spring move up and down. This is the first piece you place on the bottom of the water tank. I suspect you have this piece, because if you didn't, water would gush out of the water tank as soon as you turned it over after filling it.

The other piece, which is the one I think you may have have mislaid, is a larger black, plastic ring with screw threads. This piece goes over the top of the first plug piece, screws onto the water tank, and holds the plug in place. The words "RECLOSE TIGHTLY" appear on mine. If this piece is missing, the water tank does not sit flat on the base of the Bissell, but kind of flops around, out-of-place, and the unit will not dispense water properly, though it may leak it.

If ithat piece is gone, it should be possible to reorder it. Start here:
http://www.bissell.com/Customer_Service.aspx

If that's not the problem, if you have all the water tank pieces, I wonder if perhaps you unscrewed one black screw to remove the clear front plastic piece from the base of the unit-- the piece through which water is drawn up off the carpet-- to clean it, and didn't get it back into place properly. Make sure the two hooks at the bottom of this piece are inserted, one per side, into the clear plastic side pieces at the bottom. If the hooks are not secured properly, before trying to reinsert them, unscrew the black plastic screw so you don't break the tab. It's easy to miss getting these one of those hooks back in right, but it's important to do that before trying to screw the clear front plastic piece into place.

Jun 11, 2009 | Bissell 9500 ProHeat 2X CleanShot Upright...

1 Answer

Algae in Braun coffee maker float tube


Use a mix of 50% laundry bleach and 50% water.
Half fill the tank and let it soak for several hours.
Rinse tank and refill with fresh water only.
NEVER RUN BLEACH THROUGH THE MACHINE.

Apr 04, 2009 | Saeco Incanto Classic Espresso Machine

2 Answers

Fill Water tank - Ventilate


Hi Mike,

Make sure the magnet flow up, if it flow up and you still get fill water tank then you have to replace the magnet.

If you get ventilate all time, try to remove the filter and try again.

/Mirran

Aug 23, 2008 | Saeco Incanto Classic Espresso Machine

1 Answer

BOSCH SMS4472GB/20 DISHWASHER water leaking from vent/overflow hole in plastic next to flot on side of machine on third fill up


Remove the side and top panels of the machine.

On the left hand side you will see a clear plastic panel full of tubes and small tanks. This is the metering tank. At the bottom left of this unit, is a black pipe held on with a clip. There will almost definately be a blockage between this point and the sump. You can either buy and fit a new pipe or do what I did with mine, which was to remove it and clean it with hot water and a bottle brush. Seems to work like new again now.

You'll have to get the machine onto it's right side to remove the lower end of the black pipe from the sump. I drained as much excess water as possible out of the machine by sitting it on bricks, tilting it to the left and catching the water in a dish as it came out of the float hole. Some will also come out of the funny plastic tube which runs across the top of the machine - I carefully removed this first and caught this water in a pan.

Drain the waste pipe and disconnect the water supply.

Replace the right side casing on to protect the feed to the upper spray unit and put the machine on it's right hand side. Once the machine is on its right hand side, fin the water inlet valve and carefully remove its bracket from the chasis of the machine. You will need cross head and a torx screwdrivers - one for each screw. Once this is loosened, push some of the water supply pipe into the machine so you can move the bracket to the right a little to gaine access to the waste pipe. Remove this by removing the two gold coloured screws. This should now give you easy access to the sump end of the black pipe which lead from the metering tank. Remove this and clean it out. Pop all the parts back, stand you machine upright. Reconnect the watre supply and the waste and give it a rinse cycle to test - number 1 on the dial.

Hope this helps. My apologies if any of the take apart is not completely accurate - I don't want to turn my machine over again to check!

Mark

Jul 07, 2008 | Dishwashers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Saeco Incanto Classic Espresso Machine Logo

406 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Saeco Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines Experts

espressofixr

Level 1 Expert

16 Answers

Mike Cairns
Mike Cairns

Level 3 Expert

3053 Answers

Ray Murphy

Level 2 Expert

67 Answers

Are you a Saeco Coffee Maker and Espresso Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...