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TomTom 910 won't charge.

I've disassembled the TomTom to Reach the battery. The Battery has three wires, red, black and yellow. Which leads should I hook up to which poles of the 9V in order to induce a small charge to the Li battery? Thank you so much for your help.

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  • shnazdabling Sep 16, 2008

    Thank you so much for your answer to my question.

    To assuage your concerns of my awareness in electrical knowledge, I had made the assumption that red was positive, black was neg and yellow was a sensor. I was only concerned that making that assumption may lead to destroying the battery. I have come across some foreign technology choosing to go in a different direction with the rest of the world in color codes. It was a bit of paranoia on my part. About three days after my inquiry, I used my ohm meter to find the complete circuit and identify the positive and negative leads. Again I do thank you for your response as this was the affirmation to me that I made the right decision. Sometimes you just need someone to bounce an idea off of.

    Thank you for taking time to help me out.

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Black and Red. ( red is + ) The yellow wire is a sensor wire but you just need black = neutral , red = Positive.
Please don't be offended. To be honest with you , if you didn't automaticly know this or be able to deduce this with a multimeter, then perhaps you should not be messing with it at all.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • Ken Roberts
    Ken Roberts Sep 17, 2008


    Hi shnazdabling



    Can I first say that I appreciate your comments. I know exactly what you mean when you say you have come across foreign technology and yes , it sometimes leaves me baffled too. I think you did the right thing to check .

    Out of interest , most Tomtom faults that are "wont switch on" related are started with a faulty cigarette lighter charging lead. The Yellow wire in the lead is a 'backfeed' from the plug at the end . It feeds the 5v back into the cigarette lead head to the electronics. If this yellow wire ( might be white in some units ) becomes detached the circuit senses zero volts so the circuit then increases the output voltage ( in the end it goes up to your car battery voltage OUCH ! ) and this in turn ends up with 12v or more going into the TomTom.

    This in turn results in the 2 chips blowing U24 and U25 and often a 3rd chip the LTC1733 . A BIG ouch if this one goes because I have never managed to replace one without doing damage as they are well stuck to the board. The reverse polarity protection diode is also often blown too .

    As a protection against this ever happening again ( the loss of connection of the yellow wire ) I decided it prudent to make a slight modification to the cigarette lighter circuit as follows:


    • open up the cigarette lighter large plug end ( its fiddly and it tends to crack the plastic ) but it can be repaired with super glue or similar after the job is done.

    • find the solder points where the red and yellow wires are soldered to the circuit board

    • bridge the 2 joints together with either a big blob of solder or a short length of wire.

    • reassemble the connector and fix with (tiny) blobs of superglue.

    This in effect means that the circuit can never 'see' a loss of continuity and unless the charging circuit itself goes faulty , the lead can never output a high voltage.

    PLEASE NOTE , This modification would cancel any warranty and is not approved or suggested by me. I mention it here to tell what I did with mine as I was prepared to take any associated risks . if anyone reading this decides to modify or alter their product then they should understand that any risk is theirs and theirs alone.



    If I can be of any further assistance please let me know .



    Please note : In an earlier reply / post I incorrectly stated U25 type number. THE CORRECT NUMBER FOR U25 is LTC3411EMS and for U24 it's TPS6200

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