1st time ever using a compressor. Need to disconnect the yellow hose from machine to move. I've pushed down on the bronze ring with texture, and then it's loose but not out. Don't want to force out the female connector. Do I have to loosen the big hex of the fitting to get it free?

1. Possible cause. Water leak. Check purge valve, water curtain, sump, sump hose.
2. Air filters clogged. Clean air filters.
3. Dirty condenser. Clean condenser.
4. Restricted location, intake air to hot. Have machine moved.
5. Ice thickness sensor dirty or disconnected. Check ice thickness sensor probe.
6. Water distributor dirty. Remove and clean water distributor.
7. Inlet water valve leaks through during freeze cycle. Check water inlet valve.
8. Connected to hot water. Check for bleed through from missing check valve in building water supply.
9. Incomplete harvest. Check harvest system.
10.High pressure cut out opened. Check fan motor pressure control, check fan motor, check controller using test mode.
11. Fan motor pressure control open. Check fan pressure control.
12. Fan motor not turning. Check fan motor, check fan blade,check controller using test mode.
13.Water pump not pumping. Check pump motor,check controller using test mode.
14. Pump hose disconnected. Check hose.
15. Compressor not operating. check compressor contactor, check controller using test mode.
Check compressor start components, check PTCR resistance and temperature, check compressor voltage, check compressor windings.
16. Low refrigerant charge. Add some refrigerant and restart unit. If cycle time imporves, look for a leak.
17. Hot gas valve leaks through during freeze. Check hot gas valve for hot outlet during freeze.
18. Thermostatic expansion valve bulb loose. Check bulb.
19. Thermostatic expansion valve producing very low or high superheat. Check evaporator superheat, Change TXV if incorrect.
20. Compressor inefficent. Check compressor amp draw, if low and all else is correcy, change compressor.

you cant check capacitor with power on it nor using volt setting.need micro ferred setting on meter and check with power off and wires removed. leads go as follow for fan one lead on "C" and one on fan. For compressor one lead on Common and one on HERM. Also be sure voltage on capacitor is correct 360V or 440V. 440V will work for either. Also double check micro ferred requierment on motor and compressor. If its been replaced before may have been replaced with incorrect size. It happens.

Ensure that the fuel line is not blocked. Disconnect the small rubber hose from the carburetor. Open the fuel on/off lever and see if fuel runs out of the hose, it should. If not, you probably have a blockage in the hoses, the on/off valve is blocked with debris or sludge, or the small bronze filet inside your fuel tank is blocked also. Take fuel tank off to check for blockage of the fitting. Simple process and you only need a 10mm socket.

Make sure you've got the machine set to answer calls, and set the number of rings to four. If you need a copy, you may download the manual here.

When you are texturing walls you need a texture machine, they work very differently from an air compressor. An air compressor, especially one as small as the Central Pneumatic 40400 cannot supply the constant flow of air required by texture guns. If your compressor was running long enough to get hot enough to smell it then stopped working some of the possibilities are:
- Popped a circuit breaker, either the house breaker for the outlet you were using or the breaker on the compressor motor. This usually occurs because the compressor is being run on a too small guage or too long extension cord or run constantly for an extended period.
- Motor got overheated and seized up or shorted out. This could be as simple as a bearing seizing or as bad as the coils in the arnature shorted out.
- Pump may have seized up. Even if the sight glass shows the crankcase is full, the condition of the oil and its ability to lubricate are greatly affected if it is overheated.

next time send the model number and brand name.usually when this happens is the condenser fan motor isn't working.pull the fridge out,remove the bottom back panel and check the fan to see if it's working,if it is check the condenser coil to see if it's filled with lint and dust,it could just need to be cleaned out but if it's that hot most likely the fan isn't running,if you get this tonight check it now,if the fan isn't running you could blow the compressor,the condenser fan blows and keeps the compressor cool enough so it doesn't overheat by moving the hot air and the heat also esscapes through the condenser coil so if that's clogged with dust the machine will run hotter than normal,if the fan isn't running you can stick any window fan back there and blow it onto the compressor to keep it cool until you fix the condenser fan motor,this way you won't loose any food and if the compressor goes it's new fridge time,to much to repair.hope this helps and good luck with your machine.one more thing,i've found the fans not running and by pushing the blade it runs again,if this happens the fan could run and never have a problem or it could stop an hour later but i would change it out no matter what.if it's a G.E. fridge and the motor isn't running,most likely it will be the computer board,i've found 10 machines doing this and the temp. settings turning on and off or the evap fan motor in the freezer runs slow and then fast and the condenser fan isn't running or running slowly,this is why you have to send the brand name and model number.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

You've haven't specified if this is a new washer or recently installed, or perhaps it's just new to you, but here`s what I find is most common when dealing with the symptom you`ve described ( as long as water isn't filling over the top )

I'd suspect the drain hose is lying down on the floor or is pushed down into the stand-pipe too far.

If the drain hose is below the water level entering the washer it will siphon out immediately. The drain hose must be above the highest point the washer has to fill, ( refer to your manual, but it is typically recommended to be about "48 to "60 in height but not more than 90" or so )
i.e.



I realize the print there is small, so I've typed it out here...

**The standpipe drain requires a minimum diameter standpipe of 2" (5 cm). The minimum carry-away capacity can be no less than 17 gal. (64 L) per minute. A 2" (5 cm) diameter to 1" (2.5 cm) diameter standpipe adapter kit is available. " The top of the standpipe must be at least 39" (99 cm) high and no higher than 96" (244 cm) from the bottom of the washer.**

Also if it is in a stand pipe insure it isn't pushed in too far, just a few inches and then secure it without completely covering over the opening or that too will cause it to siphon.

Check your drain hose. Let me know if this was indeed the case and if so please rate the solution accordingly. If not we can move forward from there.

Thank's for coming to FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

e: subaru legacy transmission dipstick Transmission dip stick is behind the engine in front of driver side firewall. Move a few hoses out of the way, look down and you'll see it has a yellow top.
Other side (passenger) lower down yet, again move a few hoses aside, yellow top handle, you'll find the shorter differential dip stick.
In either case, if your gaze reaches the ground, you've gone too far.

Disconnect the electicity. Shutoff your water shutoff valves. Disconnect the two hoses leading to the valve noting which hose is hot and which is cold. Unscrew the access plate. Unscrew the screw holding the valve in place. Lift it slightly so you can push it out. Make note of the electric connections to the two solenoids. Disconnect them. Disconnect the hose ring with hose ring pliers if you are lucky enough to have them or use pliers and good luck. It your push it down below the hose it is easier to get the hose off. Wiggle the hose carefully so you don't break it. I found it useful to put the valve back in the resting place of the metal frame to be able to get a better grasp on it. Take the new part and instead of reinstalling the hose with the old hose ring get an automotive hose ring that you can screw on with a socket wrench. Reconnect all the electric connections. Put the valve back in the metal frame and screw it in and the metal plate. Reconnect the hoses securely and slowly turn the water back on making sure it doesn't leak. Plug back in and you should be in business.

Probably the paint and texture have clogged the orifice as well as the feed tube up. Hope the paint was water based. If so, set the gun down in a bucket of very hot water with the trigger tied open.

It may take several soaks. Each time you check it put the air on and pull the trigger a few times. Eventually it will unclog. By the way, you should take the orifice completely off so there is no restriction.

If it was solvent based you are pretty much out of luck.