Question about Maytag Commercial Non-Coin Washer, MAH21PND
If you have a friend with a multimeter then you can trace the fault backwards from the plug to see when exactly the short circuit happens without plugging the machine into the mains using the multimeter terminals as the mains terminal and advance the timer by hand to see where the short accurses on the dial so you can see weather the short is the heating element or not that's the main cause of short circuits eric
Posted on Dec 27, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Pt, Should be a yellow wire from the water level switch according to the diagram I have. See if it has 120V to motor when full. Just take it to ground. Same with the lid switch in closed position, it shows here as yellow, but could be grey, these diagrams are not always accurate. I think you have a level switch or lid switch problem. Check for voltage to the motor when it should be agitating. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Oct 02, 2006
Possible that you would have a tub seal leak if it is only noticable during spin cycle. Possible that it "drips" slightly while in agitation, but not enough to notice it. While in spin mode you have a lot more parts moving as well as a lot more water pressure on the seal itself. Pump could also be leaking, but highly doubtful since it would leak a constant amount at all times. Good Luck!!! Jim
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
your bearings are going bad. you need to replace the bearing on the top of the brake packag and might have to replace the tub bearing also
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
SOURCE: dead Maytag washer
You will need to replace the lid switch assembly, not just the fuse. Below is a link that will go directly to an enlarged image of what you need, along with ordering and shipping information.
Note: Lid switch adjustment may be required when installing new kit. If instructions do not come supplied with the kit, post me back and I will try to guide you through it.
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
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Posted on Jun 18, 2008
SOURCE: Maytag Performa water level
A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
Posted on Jul 13, 2008
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