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DRUM BEARING REMOVAL ZANUSSI WJD1257

Hi Advisor, I read your advice for zwd1470. I can't remove the allen bolt in the centre of the drum. Is the a technique to do this or is it brute force. Also its it a normal thread as I've figured I could be tightening it if its a reverse thread.

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SOURCE: replace drum bearing

To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor

Posted on Aug 30, 2007

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Drum Bearings replacement


This is Mogsey above, I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help. It really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! basically you have get out the residue water, release the door seal and (pipe attached) spit the m/c casing, unclip all hoses attached to drum, unclip all drum wiring ,remove belt (note position) remove motor &, lay to one side, withdraw nylon pins from shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable set just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum/case supporting springs (mark positions top and bottom) and, drop drum/case onto some blocks and lift/pull/take out (really needs two people) (minding other modules). Split drum/case ring of bolts, remove front half (careful here not to damage the heater). take half containing drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper. Remove this screw (needs good quality allen key) and use wedges to the force off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum if on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle. Careful now to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up (ensuring protuding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and inturn the drum seal) (note seal postion). Turn over the casing and knock out the outer bearing from inside the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle & renew if damaged. Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old and renew the (green) O ring seal between the drum casing halves. Replace all, but give a quick test run before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned correctly. The job would have cost £115 which I think is well worth paying someone to do.

Dec 02, 2007 | Zanussi FJD1666W Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Replacing bearings


Hi I found these, I have the same problem but I am taking the easy way out, BIN IT!!!
answer 1:
With your zanussis once you have removed the back half of the pannel and the top pannel. you will have to then detach the motor wire plug. then the heater wires and also the there is a sensoer on the side of the drum that also has a wiring connection. Also detactch the earth wires Then here come the tricky part. if you look on the top of the drum you have a rubber pipe connected to it comming from the washer draw detach that its easy. Then you have to dicconect the door seal from the front of the machine by the door (do not dissconect from the seal from the drum as you dont have to . Then disconnect the the drain hose. once this is all done you have to disconnect the legs, from the drum side. these are easily done as the pegs come out easily if you push in the pips from one side you can either knock them out with a hammer but it is best to pull em out with either some long bent nose pliers or gripping em in such a way with a monkey ranch
Best way og getting the drum out is once you have done all that is to turn the machine onto its back and lifting the casing off leaving the drum
2:
To replace the bearings you need to split the plastic drum that you are talking about. It is held together by lots of 8mm headed screws. Some are hard to get access to but you can get them out. You will need to take the springs off take care to support the weight of the drum and lower it on to the dampers. Now carefully lie the machine on it's front mark and unplug all the wires cut the tie that holds the wires to the outer drum unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the motor to the back of the drum unclip all the hoses that attach to the rear of the plastic drum. The damper pins need to be removed form the drum using one hand feel for a push-in clip at the back of the pin push it in and pull the hexed end of the pin out with both pins out the drum will lift out turn it upside down to expose the inner drum get help, have them hold the outer drum while you pull thr inner drum out you should now see the inner bearing get a bucket sit the outer drum on it and drift out the bearings
3:
Yes, the drum shaft needs to be pushed through the bearings. assuming you have already removed the drum pulley, pick the whole assembly up and 'drop' it, pulley shaft down, onto a protective piece of wood. A few drops from various heights usually is enough to push the drum and shaft through. If you do need to resort to wacking it with a hammer, ensure a piece of wood is protecting the shaft and that the pulley bolt is fitted to protect the thread. Unless of course you are changing the drum shaft/spider anyway in which case damage is not so much of a problem.

4??
     I've just tried to replace the front bearing on a Zanussi (admittedly a different model FLA1001w but a similar construction) My advice is don't bother. The notion of removing the rear half of the drum is pure fiction. All the screw bolts securing the two halves together have their heads on the front half of the drum and virtually all are impossible to get to with normal hands and tools. They are also very tight (rightly so). I elected to remove the whole drum. This sounds daunting but it does allow clear access for the rest of the job. All pipes and wires etc have to be disconnected. Remove the concrete counter balance, pulley wheel etc. Undo the plastic ring clip retaining the rubber door seal, and remove the seal from around the rim. Next I lowered the whole m/c onto its front but making sure that the door could not shut and trap the seal. In this position it is probably easier to remove the springs and the shock mounts. The plastic pins holding the shocks to the rear of the drum have a hidden locking mechanism which you only find out about after breaking one! Again the locking portion is on the front side of the drum assembly and is not clearly visible or accessible. You have to depress the locking tab to allow the pin to be extracted. The springs also have to be released; this is also not as easy as it would appear. Line up a few band-aids before attempting. Then when everything is disconnected it should be possible to lift the whole drum out. It would be easier with two people. If no-one else is around make sure you have a couple more band-aids and a can of lager waiting. Once the drum is out you can then begin to remove the countless bolts holding the two halves together. I then discovered that you really need to remove the motor as well to get the two halves apart. Having got the two halves apart it should then be a simple matter of removing the inner drum complete with spider. NOt so. It really is a tight fit in the rear bearing. Despite much effort, hammering, coaxing etc the shaft would not come out and in the end I gave up and bought a new machine. Maybe you will be luckier than me. I wish you every success and hope you can gain from my abortive attempts.

5:
     I have just done a bearing change on my FJ1093.It requires you
to take the rear of the machine off and work towards splitting the tub in half.Take the drive belt off and the drive wheel. Unplug and remove wires (Element plugs,sensor plug and earth wires.)Remove weight from top of rear tub.Undo rubber fitting at top right hand side of rear tub. Now you have to remove all the bolts around the joint in the centre of the tubs.This is a bit awkward to get into so use a ratchet spanner and a socket set where you can. There are two bolts on the rear tub securing the motor as well.There is two shock absorber units at base that need the plastic pins removing. Once all the bolts are undone the tubs should split, but be aware of two springs at the top that need lifting up out of there locations.Also be careful of the heating element at the bottom of the tub when splitting.In hindsight though you could remove the heating element before you try to split as this saves any risk of damage.The rear tub should come off together with the drum. Once this is removed support the motor and the front tub as you don`t want all the weight to go on the front rubber seal.
Now you have you access to the inner bearing and drum bearing seal once push off the drum and spider support.You can then replace these and also the outer bearing and rebuild is reverse of dismantling.
I hope this helps you and there may be an easier method , but this is the way I did it. Hope these instructions help.

Oct 21, 2007 | Zanussi FLA1001W Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Replace drum bearing


To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor

Aug 29, 2007 | Zanussi FJS1225W Front Load Washer

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