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While playing casio p20, power suddenly failed. Faint smell of burning rubber. Adapter often felt hot previous to this failure. Was in Japan where power is slightly lower cycles but had been using there for several months. No power at all now. Tried different 12 volt adapter (although not a Casio brand). Is there a fuse or a board that can be replaced? Where do I start?
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Rust is an indication that the unit has water or moisture damage. The keyboard should power up using batteries or the adapter. Is the adapter is one supplied by Casio? Perhaps the batteries were/are put in the unit in the wrong direction or polarity? Take the batteries out completely and then try the power adapter. If this fails, I suggest returning the Casio for a replacement.
Casio CDP has Auto Power Off: 30 minutes after last key operation, Auto Power Off can be disabled.
Please read the manual.
If it turns itself off while playing, I would try to buy a new AC Adapter to test. DC cable of AC adapters are often broken internally after much "bending".
Some Casio Keyboards use 9V DC (center negative) others 12V DC (center negative).
If check what voltage your Keyboard use. Generic AC adapters are usually center positive. So you have to invert the wire with a new DC plug to make it center negative,
Easiest is to buy a Casio ac adapter made for your keyboard from a Casio retailer.
Do You use original CASIO power adapter for this keyboard?
Some CASIO (CTK-5000) models require inverse voltage polarity than most of others adapters have!!! RISC OF BURNING OUT ELECTRONICS!!!
The speaker is blown. Did it smell a little funny when this happened. Sometimes they get a faint burning smell when they blow. Some Peavey amps especially older ones are known for letting DC current slip through to the speaker and blows it immediately. Most of the rest of the amp deals with that pretty well so I'm not quite sure what going on with the standby switch. Probably just a blown bulb.
Oh my... yes I know what happened. Since it won't come on, the power supply has failed. It takes out the SPS1000 supply and one or two of the IGBT switching transistors on it and often the precharge resistors and the regulator chip and the driver transistors and a speedup diode... in all about $30 of parts and lots of work restoring. DO NOT replace the fuse without repairing or it can blow more parts. ALSO the cause of the supply failure can be one of two things I have seen: A shorted capacitor... either electrolytic or a ceramic surface mount (I have seen both) AND possibly a failure of one of the two amps on the HCA2400 amplifier module. That repair can be miserable as it often is caused by an arc-over between layers of the circuit board. If you have warranty on this unit best to exercise it immediately. The repair parts cost will be between $30 and $50 wholesale. The labor is hours of work. I would NOT recommend this unit to be used for electronic drums at high levels.
Also read about the hazard regarding use of Speakon to 1/4 inch adapters or cables I posted as a tip on Fixya for PMP units. Essentially the A channel output SLEEVE, not the tip of the 1/4 inch adapter speaker cable is the HOT. Inadvertently ground the sleeve by any means and goodbye channel A of the amp. They don't tell you this in the manual.
That is a good detailed description. The factory reset is a good idea.
It sounds like a corrupted firmware. 12 volt instead of 9 volt is not a big overload, depending on the design. The fact that the adapter was very hot points to a serious electronic fault perhaps occuring. If the amp rating of the 12 volt one is adequate, this is probably the case. The 12 volt adapter could also get very hot if it is under rated for the job, which gives no real information about the fault.
It is possible that the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply could have been stressed and the power supply is now inadequate. The service manual would be handy in this scenario. If the digital electronics is corrupt or damaged, the chance of an economic fix is much less.
Yes it could be. Drop voltage adapter can cause power/pre-amp not work properly, but still can power up the lights.
There maybe power supply circuit failure inside LK45 and also power-amp problem.
Test the continuity of your Adapter (input and output), if it fails your test replace it with the same output voltage requirement's and watch the polarity as well (negative ground mostly or positive ground).
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