I used the wrong power supply and now it won't power up at all. Had a look inside for fuses but looks like they are part of the circuit board??

Firstly determine that the power supply you are using is providing the correct voltage, check with a multimeter.
If it is correct then you need to open the piano. Look inside where the power plugs in check the little black socket and ensure that there are no breaks where this is soldered to the circuit board - very common problem. If so resolder or replace socket. Does turning the switch on make the red light come on - if not and socket is soldered correctly - suspect the switch - check continuity wilth multimeter, if switch is ok check voltage across pins 1 & 5 on CN2 on board this should read around 12v. if this doesnt show a voltage it is easier just to replace the whole DCIN board # WM227400

There should be a fuse on the power supply board inside the unit. If it is not that then it is most likely the board itself. You can get a replacement at Allied Electronics.

John
With AC power off.
Use a meter (on Ohms scale) to check internal fuse for blown (open) fuse.
If you feel qualified & safe with AC Power On.
Check input to internal power supply on AC Scale (Caution when AC is on) for volts in.
Use meter on internal Power Supply for "probably" DC volts leaving internal Power Supply electronics to power the rest of the electronic circuits.
Switch mode power supplies can break down. They stop doing their high frequency switching so they don't convert AC to DC.
If this P/Sup is a separate box or circuit board, inside the unit, then it can have a part number & be replaced.
Good Luck

Unfortunately the things to look for take a trained eye and some experience. If no lights are coming on, chances are the power supply has damage and probably also one channel of the power amps failed and wiped out the power supply. There aare wo ceraamic stand-up type resistors that are either 10 ohm or 22 ohm and if you find one of those is open, then there are about 10 co,ponents on the board that require replacing. In the power amp module (HCA2400) there is a common area of arcing between layers of the multilayer circuit board in the vicinity of the source lead of the SFP9640 transistors. One can often find a slight buldging of the board in this are signifying the failure. The rework of the HCA2400 takes about $10 of parts and a lot of labor and skill. The power supply filure typically take about $20 of parts and lesser ampunt of labor.

The C23 part is a capacitor and the 7085 is more likely a 7805 which is a voltage regulator. The regulator is easy to find. For the capacitor, you will need the service manual to determine the value required. The main issue is that the leg of hte 7805 is lifted. This implies that the part was conducting more current than expected. This is an indication that the problem with the regulator is a RESULT of a problem, not the defect itself. I would not suggest replacing the power supply blindly as the root cause may beon another board. Just changing the power supply board may result in the same problem again.

I would suggest a trip to the repair shop to get a detailed repair estimate. The shop shouldbe able to determine whether or not the only issue is the power board.

Also, from the experience I have with Behringer units, the power boards are unique to each model.

Dan

Hi pcruzx,
Sometimes replacing the fuse alone with exact voltage and ampere ratings will cure the problem(you're lucky) but not all. Sometimes further damaged gone to other parts most especially the voltage regulator transistor/IC (mounted in heat sink) and the opened the fusible resistor in line with the supply(B+).
First check the fuse, for sure it was already blown. If you've replaced the fuse and immediately blew again after powering on the unit, this was an indication of shorted parts near the AC line. Click this LINK for more info.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

This probably means there is a failure and the internal protection circuits have activated. It will probably have to go to a shop for repair.

There may be an internal fuse, but the unit will need to be serviced by an electronics shop.

If no odor or burning smell happened, then I suspect a bad solder joint or cracked circuit board. Look the board over with a very bright light.

LOOK for a dark circle around pins of HEAVEY components in the solder menicus for all the pins of the heavy components.

Look for board cracks with a small LED flashlight shined through the board.

If a fuse has gone, it is likely there is an internal problem. Replacing the fuse without repairing the cause can cause further damage. If the fuse is not readily accessable, it is likely inside very near where the power goes onto the circuit board of the power supply.

Try looking for the voltage rectifier or bridge diode that converts the A.C. supply into D.C. to power the circuits. Test it with your multimeter using the diode test function if you have one.Hope this helps.