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I have the diamond back comfort bike and i forgot how to properly put back the front wheel and adjust the front breaks...i don't have an owner's manual, i just bought the bike last night
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Your bike must fit properly to be safe and comfortable. In the case of road bikes, most people will agree that you should be able to stand over the middle of the toptube on a man's style frame, with your feet about twelve inches apart, and be able to lift the front wheel one or two inches. For bikes that will be used for off-road riding, you should be able to lift the front wheel 4 or 5 inches. The reasoning is not that you may hurt yourself by hitting the toptube in an accident, but that while you are trying to prevent an accident, you may have to put a foot down here and there. You should not have to be concerned about hitting the toptube, so you can focus on the problem at hand. Getting a bike that's too small means the handlebar may be too low relative to the seat for good comfort and control.
Check and make sure the transfer case is adjusted right If the front end was broke you would know it. Jack up one front wheel and put it in 4wheel drive but not lock and see if the front drive shaft turns if it doesn't you need to adjust linkage or if it's electric make sure the signal is getting to the transfer case. If it only locks front and rear jack up one rear wheel also and do the check. Most people with 4 wheel drive don't know they have two wheel drive One in the rear and one in the front unless you ordered a locking dif from the factory they don't come this way. Then you would have 3 wheel drive
Yes, that is true on most bikes but I don't know if you're going to be able to do that. The tension on the final drive belt may prevent you from being able to get the axle started back through the wheel bearings. My suggestion is to measure BOTH adjusters to see how they are adjusted. Both sides should be adjusted to the same length between the adjuster and it's lock nut. This is how you ensure that the rear wheel is properly aligned with the swingarm and frame of the motorcycle. Both adjusters on either side of the swingarm should be the same when the final drive belt tension is correct. The only other thing I can say is to make sure you mark the wheel spacers so that you don't get confused as to where they go when you go to put the rear wheel back under the bike. You'd be surprised at how many times I'm asked this question. I've been working on bike for years and I still mark them. Are you taking your girl to the "Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum"? Don't miss this, it's unbelievable. Last time I was there, the owner was doing burn-outs inside the museum on a 1936 Crocker. Unreal. That alone was worth the price of admission.
Of course it's fine to remove the wheel. That's what most roof racks require and you see thousands of bikes on top of cars. Removal wouldn't cause an alignment issue. Improper reinstallation might. Get it right.
If your bike has those silly "lawyer lips" or wheel retention devices my personal advice would be to file them off as only a moron would be stupid enough to place the wheel on wrong and then go for a ride. Having them in place requires you to unscrew the quick release from its optimum adjustment every time you install or remove the wheel. Repeated adjustment is an opportunity for MALadjustment. Once set I almost never touch my QR's other than to flip them open or closed.
The "highest" gear would be the one where the chain is on the smallest cog of the back wheel and on the largest cog by the pedals. I mention this just in case you don't actually have it in the highest gear. But if you do, then no, other than dragging the brakes, you can't increase the pedal effort. (If this is one of the bikes that automatically shifts the gears for you, then yes it would be possible by changing the weight of the flywheel - but I recommend against it.) Many adult riders who haven't been riding much for some time experience this same desire, because they expect the pedal effort to be higher. I would guess that you are expecting to get some exercise. Biking is a good choice, but it takes time to warm up to it. Using a high pedal effort too soon will injure your knees and ankles. Better to take it easy, increase the time and distance and you find that you cadence (the rpm of your pedals) will naturally increase. Check what cadence you tend to find comfortable now. A healthy cadence is about 70 rpm. But you will probably find 40 rpm more comfortable at first.
Good luck, stick with it. :) (By the way, most experienced riders find that those bikes the shift automatically actually give to high of a pedal effort - they tend to target a cadence of about 50 rpm.)
I hope you found this helpful and encouraging.
Al K
They are not adjusted right, front of brake shoe should touch the wheel rim first. If , you do not know how to do it or don't have the tools, go to your dealer or to who assembled your bike. It is important to have the brakes working properly, not worth trying to cut corners and pay to have it done right. She has to be able to stop quickly.
just from looking at the picture , it looks like you have v-brakes . they might be different depending on what year the bike was made . if i knew what type of brakes you have i could direct you to the proper tutorial video . which is better than me describe how to tell you what to do . check out this link , they are very helpful and have a help forum .
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