The dryer operates but does not produce heat. i think it is the heating element but i can not get in to the back of the dryer to check. i would like to get a service manual so i can check the element

Retest the breaker. One side can trip without moving the handle. This will stop 240 to the element but still operate everything that operates at 120 volts.

Hi

The first thing to check is the fuses or breakers in your homes fuse box. If this fuse is blown, it is possible for your dryer to spin but not produce heat. If you've checked the fuses and they are not blown, the next possible cause is the heating element.
To check the heating element, move the back panel of the dryer. You'll need a volt/ohmmeter to check the element terminal. Locate the element and set the volt/ohmmeter on the RX-1 scale. Remove one lead from the element and then place one probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the terminal of the element. Place the other probe of the volt/ohmmeter on the remaining terminal of the element. Look for a continuity reading of the volt/ohmmeter of approximately 2-5 ohms. If there is no continuity reading, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
Also clean the lint filter every time you use the dryer. Even if the lint filter is cleaned after every load, lint will still accumulate around the dryer's moving parts, the exhaust duct and vent. Each year inspect the vent pipe and vent cover operation. Disconnect the exhaust duct and remove lint from the internal exhaust pipe, the duct and the vent. Make sure the duct has no kinks, where lint and moisture can build-up.
Turn off the power; remove the front and rear panels and vacuum out the lint from around the motor and idler. Poor air flow uses more energy and can cause lint build-up in the internal ducting, leading to a fire hazard.

Please check the bellow links to get a detailed idea as to why a dryer is not heating up, you can trouble shoot your problem after going through the article therein:-

http://www.dryernotheating.com/

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-To-Replace-Your-Dryer-Heating-Element

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

unplug dryer and gain axcess to back of dryer and remove back wall plate look at lint shute bulkhead housing their will be one thermostat with four wires and one white plastic fuse safely remove the wires off fuse and tape together for testing only ...... make sure cover with electrical tape now make sure wires dont touch anything meatal no plug in dryer and check for heat if dryer starts heating goahead and order new fuse and replace thermal fuse ,,, and clean dryer venting and check for any kinks in vent pipe ........ if that test didnt produce any heat replace heating element its in aluminum duct on right side of the back of dryer ...... their is also a high limit tstat on the upper left side of this duct you can jump this out for testing only and check for heat aswell donot operate dryer with these jumped out except for testing theses are safety precautionary thermostats,,,

Check thermostat/ Element....See also if has scut out @ back casing reset

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Really sounds like an element is burnt out or a safety has malfuctioned. Possible loss of power so check plug, recept., and breaker. Look for burnt terminals and reset breaker even if it does not look tripped. Dryer usually have 2 elements. One for low heat and both for hi heat. May want to check this out. Please keep in mind that some repairs can cost more than buying a new dryer. I got one at Lowes for about $200 and it works great. I don't think you can get a repair guy out and to the repairs for that amount. Just depends on how many whistles, buzzers, and bells you want on your machine.

Good Luck.

Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.

OK .. on your dryer it does have a bi-metal switch that turns on and off the element....if your dryer produces heat... nothing wrong with element.. a thermostat w/wire sensor is the only way to check for your heat if its working correctly.. the other is to check if your clothes coming out of your washer is it wetter then before.. might need to spin one more time.. good luck..

There is only 1 heater element, and normally one thermostat.
they are located at the rear of the m/c, behind a removable panel.
If you are not sure whether it is the element or stat, join the two
wires togeher that go to the stat, if the heater then works, replace stat. if no heat, replace heater.
plz leave feed back for this solution.
Thanks.

Welcome jessegonzales
Check the outside vent leaving your house does not have a screen on it.
Take the screen off. Even half blocked and the dryer will not dry well.



Possible solutions

1. Defective Heating Element

The heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, thent he heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.
Let me know.
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2. Defective Heating ElementThe heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, then
the heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.

3.Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.

4. Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.

One of these will solve the problem!
Thank You
Huuum.
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