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Ok, First of all the gas line to the generator should be separate from the other appliances, so yes you have to run a separate 1" line from meter to generator. The closer the generator is to the meter the better. The pressure should be fine if you stick to this. Also you will probably need a bigger meter depending on what you have now. PSI or WC is not the same as BTU's...The meter size controls BTU's and the regulator controls WC. Without knowing what you have for each generally the meter size will need to be upgraded.
I know that a Island Air units come in all shapes and sizes and they make a ton of different units. They are made in new york thats who I would use. I would definitly go with the 12,000 btu unit 500 square feet needs 12,000 btus 10,000 is under sized. 500 square feet divided by 500 = 1 ton of cooling. let me know if I can further assist. http://www.islandaire.com/
For gas, it's not the psi, you need to know. It's the water column inches of gas at the grill. In which case, it should be 11 to 13 WCI.
If you didn't remove the original gas regulator on the grill. That's the problem. You bulk tank already has a regulator. However, if you LPG System is a high pressure system, then you would need a regulator, but not the one you have. Check with your LP Gas provider for the Btu output regulator that would be required.
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Is it Natural gas or LP gas? What pressure does your gas provider supply it with? (It will usually be low pressure, ~14"WC if NG) How far from the access point you will get gas from to the heater? Once you have answers for these three questions use the installation guide found on pages 13-14 of this manual to determine the proper gas line size. Be sure if you use a different material pipe, like CSST, you adjust the pipe size based on manufacturer's recommendations. 1" copper and 1" CSST are NOT equivalent!
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You will need to check the size of the gas line. These heaters work on gas volume more than pressure. For a 400,000 any thing more than 30-50 foot you will probably need at least 1.5 to 2 inch supply line. It is always good to go big on the line to allow for other gas appliance's. I would check this first it is a common problem when upgrading to Low Nox.
These heaters don't work so much on gas pressure anymore. They still need 4-7 inches but they need the volume to maintain that pressure. rather than let it drop after firing. For a 400,000 BTU heater you will need for any more than 30-40 feet of run at least a 1.5 - 2 inch supply line. You will want to stay to the large side on this as it may br supplying other appliance's also such as gas dryer's or home heaters. You should check the size of your meter and make sure it is at least a 400,000 also or it supply enough gas to the supply line. I have had a lot of gas people tell me I don't need to up grade. They are not wrong just mistaken. I would trust the pool guy as this is what he does. It is just a small part of the gas business.
A second opinion would also be in line as what you describe could also and more often be a water flo problem. If you have an external by-pass that is open so the water goes past the heater but still supplies enough pressure to fire the heater the heater will fire and over heat the water inside the heater. That shuts it down, it gets fresh water and starts again, just to cycle again and again. Problems with the internal by-pass will do this also along with a dirty filter basket or impeller.
The new gas line is $$$ so I would start with the water flo things. Check the size on your meter next. The gas company will do this for nothing as they will sell more gas with this. If the service man says no get a supervisor. Then lastly go for a new gas line if necessary. Good luck.
Yes you can, but only if you know the BTU rating of the burners. Then you need to know what size drill bit to use to drill each orifice. Plus you will need to eliminate the LP regulator when you hook it up to your house's already regulated natural gas line. When you hook up any gas appliance, it needs to have it's own shut off valve installed on the gas line. I also like to install a quick-disconnect adapter after the shut off so I can release the hose from the grill and put the grill away when it's not in use. I have LP/Nat gas conversion charts available to look up drill sizes if you need to know more details. Keep in mind, that if the grill does not state the individual burner BTU ratings, but only the total BTU rating, you will have to divide that rating by the number of burners. Douglas
Gerge, if you go to website www.energycodes.gov
you can do a heat load calc yourself. Basically, you figure out the sizes of walls, total area of glass. total doors to outside, ceiling area and types of building materials used. It is pretty easy and then you will know for sure. The contractor should be suppling you with one but if not use this, it is free!