The machine is a AEG Turnamat 2000. This is a twin tub machine. The centrifuge will not spin. The motor is an AEG with two stator windings and a 6mfd capacitor to give phase differential. The motor windings do not smell burned and a resistance test across them appears OK. I have tried another capacitor of 3.5mfd (this is all i had in 400volt). There is voltage to the motor so in theory it should go. On one occasion while i was testing, it did go. I do not have a cicuit diagram so short of removing the motor and bench testing it,it is difficult to follow. My thoughts were that there may be a pressure or float switch, or even the lid switch which is stopping it going. The motor will turn freely by hand.

No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

hum what do u mean spin tub no such thing? do u mean the drum does not spin?

No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

sounds like the motor windings are going out? for good measure check the clutch as well or loose or worn belt

No spin, try these:

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.


Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

check brushes on motor

change the brushes on your motor

A centrifugal switch to allow the motor to start up on the start winding and once started it opens to take it out of the start winding. The motor has to have voltage applied to the start winding and the run winding at the same time in order for the motor to start. The capacitor is part of the start circuit. When the motor goes to start, the voltage must be applied to the start winding in order for the motor to start or it will just hum. The moment the motor reaches a certain RPM the centrifugal switch opens up to remove the start voltage to the motor and it will remain running on the run winding. The motor will not start up on run voltage alone. It needs both, the start voltage and run voltage.

I think the problem is that the motor is not getting the start voltage supplied to the motor or the start winding has opened up in the motor.

It is a locked motor error. One of the following is causing the problem but you may need the help of a qualified appliance technician:

• The connector (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness is not connected to the connector (3-pin, female, white) of the stator assembly. Connect them properly.

• The electrical contacts between the connectors (3-pin, male, white) in the motor harness and 4-pin, female, white connector in the main board assembly is bad or unstable. Trace the motor harness back to the main board. Clean the connectors and connect them properly.
• The motor harness between the stator assembly and main board assembly is cut or open. Reconnect or rewire.
  
• Motor winding is defective. Check the resistance between the terminals of the stator. Resistance should be between 5 to 10 ohms, otherwise replace the stator. Refer to the illustration above for the stator removal.
  

1. Disassemble the back cover.
2. Remove the large bolt on the center shaft. Ask your helper to hold the inside of the drum.
   
3. Pull out the rotor out of the shaft.
   
4. Remove the 2 screws from the tub bracket.
5. Remove the 6 bolts on the stator.
6. Unplug the 2 connectors on the stator.
7. Pull the stator out of the tub.

• The hall sensor is out of order/defective. It is located at the stator assembly. If the hall sensor is out of order, it cannot detect magnetic field and the main board sees it as the rotor is locked then displaying the error code. Replace it if no evidence of defect is found above.

there could be several problems spin tub etc what is it doing washing not spinning dry !!!!

Ok, the motor windings are bad. the A.C. hum is a warning that the motor will sound when the windings are separated or shorting. its unable to hold a balanced current.the motor will actually stop soon if it isn't repaired.