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My Whirpool Estate dryer does not heat.

What tool do I need to check the readings on my thermostat and heating element?

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A tester... read the link I found... It will help you most....

hope this helps...

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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Estate Dryer TEDS840PQ0 stopped heating. Is there a fuse or is it a bad heating element?


But its running right? just not heating? if not running u may have bad motor windings, other wise check out the thermistor, and other thermostats and the element with a multimeter, if u get no continuity on ur heating element ? ITS BADDDDDDD SHOULD READ BOUT 1200 OHMS

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TEDS840JQ no heat


It probably has a bad timer. To check the timer set your meter for ohms or tone if you have tone. Connect a test lead to the terminal that connects to the large red wire from the heater. Now check for continuity between that point and all other terminals on the timer. if ya cannot get a reading the timer is bad. Here is my video:
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Did you remove the wires from each component before checking them? You got something open there.

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You will need to check the temperature coming out of the dryer when on high heat. It should read around 160 degrees on the high end, and 110 degrees on the low end. If it is cycling before the 155-160 degrees mark, you may have a bad cycling thermostat.
Here is the thermostat to order.
Here is a video to show you how to replace the thermostat.


Regards,
Richard Roth
http://appliancecafe.com

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My Estate dryer is putting marks on my clothes that almost look like burns. With stain solution I can usually get them out but it's happening with every load now, what could be causing this? It h


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Heating Element A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Heating Element Assembly A defective heating element assembly can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Air Flow Problem Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.

Oct 02, 2012 | Estate Dryers

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The drum is turning but there is no heat it is an estate dryer yb whirlpool


Review the items in:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t2312372-no_heat_starts_but_igniter_doesnt_light
If electric dryer check thermostat and heating element. Heating element probably needs to be replaced.

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Dryer will not heat


check high limit thermostat, operating thermostat and centrifugal sw on motor. voltage is always present going into centrif sw and is cut by motor stopping. timer feeds other phase going thru thermostats to heater.

May 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

4 Answers

Estate dryer


If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.


If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

Now, if your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.


I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.



Feb 28, 2008 | Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

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