Question about Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Kenmore Refrigerator - Model No. 253.54739304

Freezer works fine, but second door panel for refrigerator no longer cools very well. I have thermostat turned up all the way and I already vaccumed the condensor and all components in the rear of frig.

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2267 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite refrigerator

If this appliance is new, I would suggest to contact the vendor or manufacturer and ask them for in home service.
It could be the thermostat that might be not working properly or not set properly.
Check the user manual for more info on the thermostat settings.

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore side by side frig with icemaker

The water smells funny and taste moldy/musty. Where is the filter to change it? I've looked inside and out and can't find it.

Posted on Jul 24, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4636 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Frig-bottom freezer/freezer door pops open

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator....

torngasket.gif

Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket.
Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.






Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door:
This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.

I hope this helps, and if you need more information On solutions just let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore coldspot side by side- not cooling properly

Setting it to 5 is what the manufacturer recommends. If you set it to 1 and the frig is still not cold, then you probably have a faulty cold control (thermostat)
http://tclaundryrepair.com/home

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4636 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 253 71132105 freezer works fine but

MGPRICE Just have the answer right in front of you and nobody gives you a thumbs up! I did. This person was even smart enough to include their model number! thumbs up to them I just am curious why they never responded. Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

TheMobilian
  • 8147 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore refrigerator Model 253-68232800 will not

Look for a failed compressor condenser fan under the ice box, check the relay, clean the junk from under the ice box, if you think it is the control and the control you have is the standard 2 wire mercury type you may jump it out and see if the ice box freezes.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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1 Answer

Fridg. not cooling. digital display not working, frezzer thawing.


he refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
• If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
• If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Jun 11, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

2 Answers

Frigidaire Refrigerator is warm on top of the frig and freezer but fine on bottom.


Remove the rear lower panel on the unit check to see if the compressor is hot or if its running, should feel the vibration, also listen for any clicking noises.

Oct 15, 2008 | Frigidaire FRS26H5AS Side by Side...

6 Answers

Fridge working intermittently.


i guess there is some problem with the thermostat

get it changed.....

Oct 08, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

How do i get unit to go in deforst


The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
• If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
• If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Nov 26, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Swan fridge freezer-freezer dones,nt get down to temperature but fridge is working fine.if you turn up the thermostat the fridge acts like a freezer


There is a damper door that opens and closes when you move the thermostat. I would bet the door is functioning incorrectly. All the cooling of a refrig comes from the freezer and gets blown into the refrigerator compartment. If that damper door is open too far it will have constant freezer air blowing in....and if it's not open enough obviously the refrig will not get cool. Look at the upper left corner of your refrigerator, the center rear wall of the refrig or just feel around for a vent will cool air blowing out of it......Then take it apart and see if anything is broken.

Sep 09, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling


Hi,

Your description is quite complete but is rather baffling. Pls bear with me while we process by elimination. A few basic/working ideas:
  • most designs call for a single compressor to cool the freezer;
  • the cold air in the freezer is drawn towards the fridge to cool that area;
  • this is performed by a fan drawing air in the freezer through the evaporator;
  • most would have a vent or air pathway to guide the freezer air;
  • all would have thermostatic control to set the desired temperature;
  • some designs have two thermostatic control , 1 for the freezer, 1 for the fridge.
As applied to your concern:
  • compressor is working since freezer is OK;
  • fan is working as you posted but is the air drawn from the freezer, better still, is the air forced/vented into the fridge?
  • could you please check that the air is strongly blown into the fridge area;
  • a little experiment, open the fridge door, look for and press on the door switch, the light should go out, after a lengthy seconds, the fan should trigger on, not only would it be audible, you would notice the frozen air swirling inside the fridge area. If you hold on long enough to the dorr switch, the compressor should kick in (if it is not already running) since the thermostat of the fridge area (if one is present) would sense that the fan is turning but the fridge area is not cooling.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Oct 02, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hotpoint FFA80 Freezer Fan stopped working


This information may help you - it could be the fan motor itself by the way.

Servicing the Thermostat Control
how-to-repair-a-refrigerator-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
Thermostat controls regulate the temperature of the refrigerator
and freezer. Remove the control panel to reach the controls.


The thermostat control is usually mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control can be tested in various ways, depending on the problem. To test the thermostat control:

Step 1:
If the compressor runs all the time, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat in place. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new thermostat.

Step 2:
If the compressor runs after the wire is removed from its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to fix the problem yourself; call a professional service person.

Step 3:
If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and remove the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape, and plug in the appliance. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 4:
If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they're usually friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct near the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about ten minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a new one of the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Evaporator Fan

In some cases, a faulty thermostat may not be the cause of a warm refrigerator or freezer. A warm box may also be caused by a defective fan, a blocked fan, or broken or bent fan blades. If the blades are jammed, try to free them. If they're bent, straighten them with pliers. If this doesn't solve the problem, call a professional service person.

On some refrigerators, the door switch operates the evaporator fan. If the fan seems to be malfunctioning, the door switch could be faulty. Test the switch as detailed in the last page, and replace it if necessary

May 09, 2009 | Hotpoint FFA80 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refridgerator acting erratic


The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.

May 07, 2009 | Kenmore 57029 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Whirpool frost free-fridge temp is not working


The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds. 
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
� If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
� If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Jan 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Frigidaire Refrigerator not cooling


Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not defrosting as it should.
  • possible causes:
  1. bad defrost timer/control board
  2. bad defrost heater (in freezer)
  3. bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above items.
  • 46cf1ba.jpgb29265f.jpg49418b0.jpg

  • if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 
Mike  

Jul 16, 2008 | Refrigerators

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