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Re: Bike won't start
Start by narrowing it down to fire or fuel problem. Pull a sparkplug, ground it to the head, and crank the engine. If there is no spark, then test the plug wires, coil, then ignition module in order down the line until you find where the power stops. If you have spark, then check the petcock to carb for fuel. If there is no fuel from the petcock, then it will be the petcock filter or the petcock is bad. If you do have fuel to the carb, but no to the cylinders, then the carb may need to be cleaned and/or rebuilt. Try these and let me know.
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Either you have a dead short in your wireing or your battery is not charging fully. Use a volt meter your battery will have 12 volts start the bike and it should read 13 plus then take it up to 2000 rpm above idle anyway it should read 14 plus. If you dont have these numbers then you have a stator or regulator problem or both. You may be geting a slight charge when running but not enough to keep the battery peaked out.
Very common on h-d big twins for the last 75 years or so. These bikes have a dry sump oil system which means you have 2 oil pumps, feed and scavenge. The feed pump is very puny compaired to the scavenge, so at idle (especially when hot) it carries only a couple of pounds of pressure and that is all you need. The scavenge pump has a much greater capacity because if it can't keep up the crancase will start filling up and the crank will start slogging through the oil, killing performance. These bikes are equipped with hydraulic valve lifters which will start clanking loudly if you have a real oil pressure problem. Enjoy your ride and don't sweat it.
What u are describing is typical of a faulty ignition system, but could also be a fuel problem. I check by removing the aircleaner and rotating the throttle. If u see a nice spray of fuel, thats probably not the problem. Check for a spark at the plugs. I can explain how if you need me to. If you cant see a good spark, U have an electrical problem. I had a crank position sensor go bad on me. Dont do what I did (replaced the battery, ignition, and regulator as part of my diagnosis procedure)
You didnt mention how you tried to jump it. If it was from a car battery, you could have fried a sensor. If the car you jumped it from was fired up while conneted to your bike, thats the problem right there
Check the battery connections, especially if you hear a click just before it goes dead. I know that on my bike, when this happens, the screws that hold the battery cables in place have backed out and not getting a good contact. You would think that with a bad contact that it would stay dead when you turn the key off then back on, but oddly, everything comes back on normally until I hit the starter button. Check the cables.
had the same issue with an early twin cam that belonged to a buddy. he had this wierd kinda intake thing that looked like the intake with the round flaps that you used to see on a hot rod back in the day. I don't think it did anything but look cool to him.
but anyway it was crazy hard to warm up when cold. if you are starting this bike in an ambient of 40f or less it will take some time to warm up. which I don't understand because the twin cam runs hot like 220 plus. give it extra time to warm up in cold weather. might be nothing wrong with the bike... I mean maybe what your up against isn't a breakdown of the machine but poor engineering (WHO SAID THAT?) anyhoo I've seen it too and everything was tip top far as the HD cronies said