Question about Miele WT945 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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No power dryer was not working although heater unit was, howerver whilst testing that power was getting to all parts of dryer motor, accidentally shorted out machine. Have changed fuse in mains plug but machine is still not on. Where are the fuses that would have been affected by this overall short out?

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Thanks for your email. The problem was fixed, the main power board had been affected. Checked for spares and found they were available on line but the mark up prices independents were charging meant that a new machine was the only option.( It would also take 21 days to deliver) However on contacting Miele direct they were extremely happy to send us the part at half the lowest price that the independent were quoting. Their parts dept also checked that we wre ordering the right part.They were very thorough and patient and confirmed that the powerboard would take only 3 days to send. Thanks

Posted on Aug 21, 2008


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Intermittent No Heat

if you checked all the t-stats and they checked good the only two things left is the board and the motor,it takes 240 volts to get heat 120 comes from the board and the other 120 volts comes from the motor,first go to the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts there,but you say you changed the thermister and you had heat?check both thermisters to see if you get the same reading on them both should be around 10k ohms,that could of been coincidental With the resistance value at room temp on the thermistor being good then this would not be a thermistor error. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the Control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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I have a frigidaire Front load dryer model number FASE7073LAO. The dryer stopped working gave a code for the heater element. We took that to the local parts guy and the whole unit tested fine. So, we...

Hello Paul

Can you check this following parts:

Make sure the dryer is plugged in securely
Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker
Test the power outlet for voltage
Inspect the electrical cord for damage
Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used
Check the outlet voltage
Test the door switch
Test the start switch
Test the safety fuse
Test the thermostats
Test the timer motor
Test the motor

Best Regards
Neciforo Llanto

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Drum runs but no heat?

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Hello all I have a GE DCLR333ETOWW Electric dryer. When we got it the start button was missing so I had the Blue and Brown Wires sticking out and we would just touch them together for a second and the...

first things first. Electric dryers are 220v on a double breaker in your breaker box. (120v for the motor,120v for the heater element). When your dryer sparked, it probably tripped the breaker. Note: you REALLY need to buy a switch an get those exposed wires back inside of the dryer where they belong...just sayin'

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Kenmore elite dryer 11063942101 works if I force the switch to stay in the on position but won't start by just pressing the switch. Replaced pust-to-start switch. Same problem. Vacuuming out the areas...

The problem is definitely not the motor but rather the motor relay or the electronic control. Either the motor relay is not working to close the motor circuit or the electronic control is not powering up the motor relay to serve its function.

The motor relay and the heater relay are identical and can be used interchangeably. The heater relay may be used in place of the motor relay if the dryer heats up when the start switch is held on. It indicates that the heater relay is working.

Disconnect power to the dryer then pull the end cap trims off then remove the control panel securing screws. Once the screws are removed, rotate the control panel up to the rear of the dryer.

Disconnect the wires and remove the relays then put each in the place of the other. Refer to the component layout diagram for the location of the relays.

Reconnect the wires then rotate the control panel down back into position then plug the dryer in and start it. The dryer should start and continue to run when the start switch is released since the working heater relay is used but will not heat up indicating that the motor relay is not working. Otherwise the fault is in the electronic control.

Replace the faulty component and it should address the problem. The relay (heater/motor) is part number
3405281 and the electronic control is part number W10116565.

Squeeze on the electronic control mounting bracket as shown then pull the board up to remove.

Insert the new control board and gently press it down into position. Transfer the wires from the old board to the new board one at a time.

Simply unscrew the relay to be replaced then secure the new one into position and transfer the wires.

Rotate the control panel down and secure it back into position to complete the repair.

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1 Answer

Dryer will not start , still has power to unit as dryer light still works

One of three problems very probable:
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There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
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My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
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*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
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A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

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