Question about Miele WT945 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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No power dryer was not working although heater unit was, howerver whilst testing that power was getting to all parts of dryer motor, accidentally shorted out machine. Have changed fuse in mains plug but machine is still not on. Where are the fuses that would have been affected by this overall short out?

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Thanks for your email. The problem was fixed, the main power board had been affected. Checked for spares and found they were available on line but the mark up prices independents were charging meant that a new machine was the only option.( It would also take 21 days to deliver) However on contacting Miele direct they were extremely happy to send us the part at half the lowest price that the independent were quoting. Their parts dept also checked that we wre ordering the right part.They were very thorough and patient and confirmed that the powerboard would take only 3 days to send. Thanks

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

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Why does my dryer not start, but the washer is fine?

Hello Jennifer Christie, thank you for your post!

I see that you have replaced the belt and bearing drum in your Frigidaire dryer but the unit does not start. It sounds like you could be experiencing an issue within the motor or timer. I would recommend having a professional come out to properly diagnose and repair your appliance, to avoid any further unnecessary part purchases. I hope this is helpful. -Matt

Aug 30, 2014 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...


Miele WT945 Dryer Problems - stage by stage fixing (Introduction)

After two years of regular dryer fan seizure, and having called out a Miele technician to fix an unrelated problem on the WT945 (main water heater shorted), I pumped him for more information on the dryer side of things. I have to say he was extremely helpful and straightforward with his advice. So – with much help from the expert – I’ve attempted a complete summary of the dryer problem and its various solutions, which hopefully may be of interest to fellow sufferers. Good luck!


Dryer fan seizure seems to be a common problem with the WT945 as it ages. The symptom is (usually) a flashing ‘dryer’ light on the front panel and wet, cold clothes instead of a good drying cycle. If you’re familiar with your Miele sounds, there is also the absence of the high-pitched fan motor noise when drying (although the main drum still ‘tumbles’).

Before you attempt a fix, please be aware of safety issues. If you’re not confident about working on mains appliances with large, heavy moving parts, I would not recommend moving beyond Stage 1. In any case, always work with the power off, and beware of the heater (the long rectangular box sitting on top of the drum) – it can get very hot indeed.

First understand your components. When you take the top off the machine (screws under white plastic caps on each side of the top, about 5 cm in from the front), you will see a very obvious electric motor at the top rear right corner of the unit. This is the fan motor, which (through a rubber belt) drives a shaft that goes into a much larger, flattish unit bolted onto the back of the drum. This larger unit is the ‘fan box’, and hidden within it is the dryer fan that moves the air that does the drying (similar to a hairdryer). The small nylon ‘fan’ mounted on the front of the motor shaft (which cools the motor itself) is a red herring – this isn’t the fan we’re concerned with.

You will undoubtedly drop tools into the machine at some stage. Don’t panic and don’t mess about with magnets on strings etc – it’s far quicker to open the whole front panel which hinges on the right like a door. Take out the detergent tray, undo three Torx screws revealed around the edges of the tray holder, undo the three bolts behind the main door of the machine (these aren’t as fundamental as they look – nothing is going to fall off!). Open the filter flap and unclip the filter drain outlet from the inside of the flap. Open the door by breaking the seal and overcoming the spring clip at the base of the left hand side (can be quite stiff). Access is now pretty easy to the ‘floor’ of the machine to retrieve your tools. When closing the front again, don’t forget to feed the emergency door release plastic tab through the hole at the top of the filter flap aperture, otherwise it will be hidden inside the machine next time you want to use it.

See my next tip 'Stage 1 fix' to start work.

on Feb 21, 2010 | Miele WT945 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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My crappy Maytag does not spin dry enough. I had a Maytag before this one that was really good in comparrison. It takes much longer in the dryer because the clothes come out so wet from the washer. My...

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Just out of interest is it possible that there is water still left in the unit whilst spinning? That would account for the clothes still being wet. Just in case there is I would advise following my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Mar 17, 2011 | Maytag Washing Machines

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Showing errer f-13 (flashing)

) Unplug!!
2) Unscrew 2 Screws on the back at the top. Then take the top off - it needs a bit of force not too much though. I found lfting the back end and firmly tapping the front with the heel of my hand worked and didn't break anything.
3) On the right hand side is a large metal snail sort of shape metal thing with wires on. Make a note of which wires go where and unplug them all. (One of these although I didn't need to buy and replace this
4) You need a Torx scredriver/bitset to take the top of the snail off - it is fidly.
5) When you have the top off you have a fan wheel - I unscrewed the bolt (clockwise to unscrew) and cleaned all the fluff of the fan & housing & pretty much everywhere.
6) Put the fan back on not sittng against the bottow of the housing but raised slightly so that it spins.
7) Put it back all back together.
8) I bought and changed the thermistat (
9) I also changed the second thermostat which I couldn't initailly find but it turns out it the big wire on the top with the pink connection (
10) Put all the wire back in place
11) Lid back on - plug in and test - Fingers Crossed it works.

Mar 14, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My electrical washer dryer stackable just quit working,neither 1

If the dryer does not start, you need to make a few observations in order to work toward a diagnosis. If the motor is humming or trying to turn but does not engage, check the following:

Make sure a garment or excess lint build up isn't stuck in the blower wheel, causing the motor to be physically unable to turn. If the blower wheel turns independently of the motor, or it is stripped on the motor shaft, you should replace the blower wheel. Inspect the drum support system, including the rear bearing, rollers, front glides or belt tension wheel for excessive wear, which could make the drum hard to turn. If the drum turns freely, and you have no obstructions causing any drag on the motor, replace the motor. The motor humming is usually an indication the motor is receiving proper power, but it is just unable to start on its own.

If the dryer is "dead" or you hear nothing when you push start on the unit, there are several electrical components to check. First, check the wall socket to make sure you have proper voltage to the dryer. An electric dryer should have 240 volts or two "legs" of 120 volts of power at the terminal block on the dryer. A gas dryer should have 120 volts of power at the receptacle in which it is plugged into. Once you've verified proper power to the unit, proceed with diagnosing the internal components of the dryer. Use the wiring diagram on the unit itself with an electrical test meter to take the guess work out of the diagnosis.

Check the door switch. On the frame of the dryer where the door closes, there is a door switch that should “click” when actuated. This doesn't absolutely mean the switch is good, but if it doesn't “click” it's probably bad. You can test the switch for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.

Check the push button start switch to make sure the contacts are closing properly when the switch is depressed. You can do this with an ohm meter with the wires removed from the switch. If this function is done through the timer, you can check the timer contacts used for this purpose in the same manner. If the motor only runs when the start switch is pushed the motor may be plugged with lint or it may have a bad winding. When a motor has a bad winding it will not stay running once the start switch (or timer) is released.

Most dryers built in the last 10 years have one or more thermostat-like parts that will shut down operation if the dryer overheats. These "one time" thermal fuses are located on the heater housing or on the blower housing inside the unit and must be replaced once they have been tripped. More importantly, you need to determine why the unit has overheated before you resume operating the dryer. Check the venting to make sure it's clean all the way to the outdoors and that it's as short as possible. Also, use a thermometer to check the outlet temperature of the dryer. If it is overheating, replace the control thermostat used for that cycle. A heating element that is touching the frame or cabinet can provide constant heat, even when the control thermostat has cycled off. So be sure to inspect the element for any grounds or shorts.

When all the components listed above seem to be in working order, you either have open contacts in the timer not supplying power to the motor, or the motor itself has an open winding. On occasion, you may have a burnt or broken wire causing the failure. Inspect the wiring around the motor area.

TheRepairGuru ---

Jan 26, 2009 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Washing machine WK61420GB drum does not turn

replace the brushes in the motor ( approx £5 parts)

Dec 30, 2008 | Siemens WK61420GB Front Load Washer /...

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Dryer does not tumble at all

We found that our problem was the thermal fuse. After ruling out all other issues, we came across a diagram with the thermal fuse mentioned. We replaced this along with cleaning all lint from inside and now the dryer works great. Thermal fuse cost = $15

Oct 26, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

Fridgidaire GLET1041AS1

Unplug unit! Remove top screws and pull off top lid of dryer. Heater terminals should be at top right. Use ohm meter to check resistance. If ohms won't display, then your heater unit probably has an open circuit. For instance, my GLET1031 has a reading of 12.5 ohms.

Sep 30, 2008 | Frigidaire GLET1031 Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Combo Washer-dryer

Just for your information, you can call Appliance Desk and speak to their technical support to understand the wiring diagram.
You can download the manuals from their website as well which

Jun 29, 2008 | Equator EZ 3710 CEE / W Ventless...

2 Answers

Timer, or Heating element?

The timer small motor malfunction or open./ remove test the two wires by multi tester the continuity/ no response motor broken./ test also fuse . if ok / sometime if motor pop same time fuse burn.

Jan 05, 2008 | Bosch Classixx WVF 240S Front Load Washer...

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